henry4841

Good deal.

One seller. No affiliation or experience with seller. Just a quick search but the guy seems to have a lot of different values. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dmd=2&iconV2Request=true&_ssn=elecments13&store_cat=2800275012&store_name=elecments13&_oac=1&_pgn=1

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/profile/61896-toolshedamps/content/page/3/ Do some searching here for info.

Old mechanics trick. Stick a small diameter piece of wire over the horn threads and then start the driver. Should tighten up and work fine. All you need is a tight fit. Might need piece of wire on both sides of threads before starting driver. All above suggestions are just not practical with such a big diameter. If this does not work one needs a new horn. Machine shop repair is going to cost most more then a new horn.

Nothing wrong with an amplifier giving a little color to the sound. Most of the time this means a little 2nd harmonic. Most all of Nelson Pass' Firstwatt amplifiers have some 2nd harmonic and a touch of third. Jean Hirago surmised this many years ago for a superb sounding amplifier. A little 2nd harmonic and a touch of third. Amplifier design is not all science. It is called the entertainment industry. Most, if given a choice, will pick an amplifier that sounds best to them.

Circuit boards are the best option to put more SE tube amps into more peoples homes. I know it is asking a lot from Captain but lets hope he has the time to spare. All of the tube amps I have built are point to point working from a schematic but then I have an electronic background. The majority of members that visit this site do not or care to go done that road just like I would not know how or want to do the field they are in. But many of those members know how or have the ability learn to solder. Not much to it actually. Hold the iron on both parts you wish to connect until the parts melt the solder and not the other way around. They are the ones that might want to assemble their own amplifier. In a way the project would be a forum effort, as it has become a little bit now, contributing to Captain ideas for a somewhat joint effort with Captain doing all the heavy lifting. It will be fun seeing how this continues. A Klipsch Forum SET Amplifier.

I think you may be heading in the right direction considering making an outstanding SE amplifier at a reasonable price rather then trying to hit a low price point. Especially when considering the cost of the iron and chassis being the most expensive part of any tube build. An excellent, well designed, with decent parts SET amplifier less then $1000. would be a hit on this forum in my humble opinion. I have a number of Nelson Pass' SE SS amplifier and the cost to build one of them can surpass the $1000 mark or at the very least start towards that figure. Most novice builders are going to require a board to build on not building point to point and designing and producing a board is the job you seem to be more then able to accomplish.

The owner used to participate on this forum.

I really like this guy. https://www.youtube.com/c/xraytonyb An example. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAW_Ept99WE&t=4443s An engineer that has a business servicing X-ray machines and a good teacher as well. Really goes in detail on some of his projects without being long winded. A couple of technicians I also enjoy watching but more for servicing tips and tricks. https://www.youtube.com/c/12voltvids https://www.youtube.com/c/JordanPier

We all appreciate the work you have done. Good work.

I've assembled a couple of the Chinese amp kits and like yourself impressed with the iron supplied. The only problem I see with your pricing is shipping and tax which is going to add to the base cost of $195.

I believe years later then mine had zener diodes in their AL crossovers. Mine were an exception for some reason. Cost Klipsch tweeters under warranty by not having them but to be fair they would never have blown with just me using them. I have since replaced the AL's with AA's.

One would probably be safe with a 2 amp fast blow fuse if one chooses but I prefer to be safe.

IMPORTANT I made a mistake on kind of fuse. You want a fast blow fuse not a slow blow. Again FAST BLOW. I have never blown a 1 amp fast blow fuse listening to music but any transients such as on turn on or turn off will blow the fuse. Will not happen unless you have a problem with your amplifier. Saved me money on a few occasions.

Before the crossover. Inline with the input protecting everything. The tweeter is the soft spot so it will work only on the tweeter just as well I suppose. In my case, experimenting as much as I do, I prefer to protect everything. Captain supplying a zener diode number I did some checking at mouser and those things are terrible expensive, $38 apiece these days vs a few cents for a fuse.

My '86 LaScala's came from the factory without diodes. I will assume they were out of them when my crossovers were built. I have never blown a tweeter myself but years ago my teenage sons did. Replaced under warranty. To prevent it happening again I fused my speakers and have never had a problem again. If fuses have any effect on sound I did not, have not heard any difference. Knowing a little electronics I am sure fuses, being smaller then the wire connecting the speakers does have some effect, damping factor maybe, but the sacrifice is worth the cost for me protecting my tweeters. Of course someone can always replace the tweeters with some of Crites which are rated inline with the mid driver if so inclined. Another reason for fuses with me is I am always replacing and building amplifiers and fuses are good insurance as well for what I do. Many speakers come from the factory with fuses installed. I think the instructions that came with my speakers recommend 1 1/4 amp slow blow fuses but those are kinda hard to find so I just use 1 amp ones.

And a newer version that is less cost available soon. Tube sound but SS. Excellent project for beginners who are afraid of the high voltages tube work at. That said tubes still rule when it comes to sound.

With the goal of 15 watts I assume it is going to be a push pull design. I have one PP amplifier using the EL84 tubes. Sounds really good and will not break the bank building.

Here's one. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/159805-the-long-awaited-little-sweetie-mono-sets/ Can be built real easily as stereo instead of mono.

The 6P14P is a Russian tube that one can substitute for the EL84 and they can be NOS and bought at a reasonable price. I personally use 6P15P's in my EL84 PP amplifier which work and sound great but one has to connect pin 3 and 6 together at the socket being the EL84 and 6P14P have pins 3 and 6 connected internally and the 6P15P does not. The designer of my EL84 amplifier tested the 6P15P's against the EL84 and agreed with me about sounding as good or better.

I notice that you did not install any pots on this build. Is a linestage necessary for this design or can just a buffer or passive linestage be used with our horns?

The misconception of more power means better sound is alive and well. Evident in this amplifier and the power rating misrepresented in his ads and spec's. A very good amplifier, from all that has been said on this thread, that the seller thinks needs over rated power specifications to create more sales. I remember too well the power wars of the 70's with all the big players creating bigger and bigger amplifiers. I have been restoring some of the 70's lower power receivers and amplifiers and even ones with 15 watts per channel drive some 85db bedroom speakers plenty loud and sound really good.

Mouser and Digi-key are two of the largest electronic supply stores in the USA. You can depend on them for quality components.

Values would be close enough for me but if you want to make the correct value use an appropriate value cap in parallel with the other. Capacitors in parallel add. With a quick check at Mousers they do have the 4.5uf cap in stock. https://www.mouser.com/c/passive-components/capacitors/film-capacitors/?capacitance=4.5 uF&instock=y

Nice work. What is your plan for a finish?