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colterphoto1

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Everything posted by colterphoto1

  1. From a post last August: People often figure that when bi-amping, they need a big amp for the bass, but only a little amp, like maybe their favourite sweet-sounding tube amp, for the treble. If they're tri-amping, that may be the case, but when bi-amping, the mid/hi driver is carrying a lot of the load, depending on the crossover frequency, as shown in this chart found in the site provided by djk on a previous page ( http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm ): X-over Frequency (Hz) Power to Bass (%) Power to Mid+High (%) 250 40 60 350 50 50 500 60 40 1,200 65 35 3,000 85 15 5,000 90 10 With the Jubilee and JubScala crossing over a bit under 500Hz, you can see why it makes sense to use a pair of matching amps, one for bass and one for treble. To put it another way, when the crossover is at 500Hz or a bit below, the bass amp is powering the bottom 5 octaves of the audio range and the treble amp is powering the top 5 octaves. That means the load on both amps is comparable, so the treble amp should be roughly as powerful as the bass amp. Really bass-heavy music may change things a bit, but the chart should give good guidance in most cases. Using matching amps also simplifies level matching between the bass drivers and the treble drivers, plus you're likely to get a better timbre match between the bass and treble drivers, since it removes one element of dissimilarity, even if the drivers are two different types, typically a cone woofer and a compression mid/tweeter. As you can see, it would be wrong to say it has nothing to do with power. Power is not the only factor, but it is an important one. We are saying the same thing---you are saying power can be an issue--- I am saying since power can be an issue you should completely take it out of the equation by testing the crossover with amplifiers which are overspecified. Also I hate to tell you that simplistic chart is a bit misleading. Its just meant as a guideline. Under the dynamic conditions of a high end hifi system you need more power up top. Please understand my perspective --- Every time I have gotten active to work and work extremely well it has been with very similar amps where each amp was capable of running the entire system passively by itself. I think if you go to any of the better mastering studios where they run PMC BB5's you'll see that the tweets are running 300 watt plus monoblocks --- this is probably 10X overkill but it does produce marginally better sound and paradoxically your tweeters dont blow out... If bi-amping, remember that the portions of the signal that pass through the internal Khorn crossover are being tapered off in terms of output so that nullifies the need for a smaller amp for the mid/high. If you are entirely bypassing the internal speaker crossover, it might reasonably be expected that you might want larger amp for LF, mid sized for MF, smaller yet for HF. It's all about balance. I can tell you stories of how much wattage is used in large PA installations that would blow your minds.
  2. I'd do what we do in live PA. Get a metronome app and play that through speakers, if you can find one where you can change the frequency to around 400-500 hz, you'll hear it equally through the woofer and mid horn. The one I have puts out 1kHz but you still get a lot of that through the woofer. Listen to the clicks and delay the top end until you hear a single CLICK from the metronome - voila you've found the perfect delay for that loudspeaker. PEQ wise, I'd do the same thing in your listening room, with pink noise (from a CD or other source). I have an app called RTA from Studio Six Digital - it outputs pink noise and gives you a 31 band real time analyzer so you can fine tune the frequency to nearly dead flat ( if that's what you're after). Similar to what modern receivers do with their YPAO or Audyssey.
  3. ^ Yup, always thought that was an interesting design, the slant allowed placement under a TV (back when we had tv's), aimed upwards into the listener's ears, instead of at the carpet/coffee table.
  4. bump, going to try to clean up that one grille now.
  5. the woofer baskets are plastic and easily distorted.
  6. nice retro Lane coffee table there Dhar, I have the same one!
  7. ESR is what gets you, in time, the caps develop more resistance, effectively turning the volume down every so slightly over time, on your mid and tweeter drivers. I've heard new caps described as 'taking a wool blanket off the speaker' and that's been my experience, even with less expensive Dayton caps from Parts Express. I'm not an esoteric kind of guy but I like for stuff to work as originally engineered.
  8. https://troyphoto.sm...ipsch-speakers/ See last photos in this series. There is a small paint/possibly candle wax stain on one grille, otherwise speakers are without blemish, sharp corners, no bb marks or wrinkles on woofers. With boxes, but would prefer no shipping. Asking $250. Also have the RC3 II, nearly matching center for these in black. $150. Michael
  9. It's a part they can no longer supply, I can't see how anyone would have an issue with it.
  10. Someone here once created a vinyl cutout stencil for recreating the painted-on logo on older Pro models, my recollection is that there was a slight issue with one of the letters though. I have some of those. I have often thought it would be cool to recreate the 1x6" matte black with white KLIPSCH metal placards that were used on LSI bass bins, HIP, MTM tweeter arrays, and some other early models. Vinyl stickers wouldn't stick to pebble paint finishes and possibly have trouble on BG (fiberglass-coated) models, perhaps that's why Klipsch used the screw on metal placards.
  11. It's a 'pebble' paint finish achieved by splatter coating the speakers using a special nozzle, then a few coats of black. Marshal Groomlakearea51 has the exact recipe. If you wanted to sand them down for veneer to adhere, it would take considerable work with pretty coarse grade paper and even then you'd have the radius round-over corners to deal with.
  12. I tell people what is important that sound 'comes from somewhere back there (points behind listening position). In your case what you say is fine. Another solution, which may seem odd, is to place them against wall facing UP. Sound will bounce off wall, off ceiling, arriving at listener's ears at different times, giving great illusion of space. If you have large seating like sofa or couch at your H listening position, pull sofa from wall a bit and put speakers behind it, not up overhead. Many have tried this and it works great, no holes to make in wall or wires showing! Cheers! Michael
  13. These either started life as home versions (hence the 3/4" door surface mounted for that 'floating look' and the user added the vinyl doghouse trim piece, or they started life as pro models and he's added some rubber footies underneath. In either case, note the nice routing job on the edges of the mf and hf horn cutouts.
  14. The corner treatments are like many KP301 cabinets. Note that not only has he used the correct 'stacking type' plastic corners, but an original Klipsch-type ribbed edge guard has been placed on the front-rear edges underneath the corners. Nice job.
  15. Link to photos here https://troyphoto.smugmug.com/Other/Klipsch-speakers/ Condition notes. One RB35 has light colored stain on grille, possibly latex paint (see second to last photo, page 2) , RSW veneer on rear edge of back of cabinet missing, two pegs from grille snapped off but grille otherwise in great shape (photos 2,3, 5) . No delimitation, moisture problems, mashed corners or scratches noted by myself. No woofer ding or wrinkles, all play smoothly. These are located at my home NE Indianapolis. Asking prices RF35 pair - SOLD RB35 pair cherry (light) finish $250 RSW 12 black SOLD RC 3 II - $150 The RB35 I have cartons for but would seriously prefer no shipping on any of these if at all possible. Can help deliver for gas money.
  16. Love your writing style and sense of humor. Had I been there we might have had some photos but I've had such bad luck with the whole 'photo badge' thing that thought it best to just stay home this time. Nothing on Robert Plant?
  17. That Jensen woofer has P15P stamped in ink on the basket perimeter. Interesting to note that the first Cornwalls used P15LL Jensen woofers and they are somewhat prized. That tweeter horn looks pretty interesting also.
  18. I'm going to use mine to pump sound into a nearby patio space. I am of the opinion that 5 carefully placed speakers can deliver a more satisfying surround experience than 7 moderately - correctly placed ones ( too many times see speaker just jammed into a room, not that any of us would do that). And I'm more than please with my current setup and can't imagine where I'd put the other speakers. That being said, it would be infinitely more helpful if we could study your situation in regards to photos/diagram of your current and proposed setups. A buddy recently did this on a FB local sound guys forum and I convinced him to rotate his entire room 90 degrees instead of building an additional wall for his front setup, and his surround field is so much better now than what it would have been. Sometimes you need to turn the room on it's end ya know?
  19. OH, perhaps that's it. In that case. No - it's a MONO amp as it stands. There do not exist two separate outputs to bridge together.
  20. I dunno Joe, but I picked up a KPT250 (cinema surround speaker) in Kansas City and carried it on the Amtrak over my shoulder without anyone blinking an eye.
  21. He has 4 amps already? no - he's attempting to drive 4 cabinets with one amp.
  22. It IS a mono amp. It just has two outputs for convenience to wiring to the suggested complement of two KW120 subwoofers. I wouldn't run more than that with it or risk blowing it up. If you need to run four cabinets, that would entail using 2 KA1000 amps. You could use other amplifiers with much more power, but you'd lose the automatic features, phase fine tuning, and any active eq built into the KA1000 by the Klipsch engineers. I'd get a second KA1000 if I were you. Or a completely different sub system if you need that much output. How large of a room are you playing to?
  23. stop talking and get in the truck now. Don't forget a pair of pliers to loosen the thumbscrews holding topcoat on. And lots of nice soft blankies for the ride home.
  24. If the second room has TV, consider AppleTV or Roku for hifi wireless solution. It collects signal from your home router.
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