formica

Isn't that the problem? [] If anybody needs tricks on fixing those type of problems, apparently I'm the guy to see ... []

Talk about change since last time i was by... i never even noticed the window behind your "wall of sound"... [H]

I like your thinking... i'll do the design if you do the construction.... []

Well at least you are in the right season... summer is just too hot for convertibles down there. I haven't been down in 2 or 3 years already... But Animal Kingdom should be better now with "Everest" open (there are very few rides compared to the other parks) ohh... why doesn't that EVER happen to me??

Nice progress... and great to see you've started a thread... how's the dry walling going? That would be easier for all of us to follow along... so anything you can get up helps Actually the insulation it does increase the STC (sound transmission coefficient) but is most effective when combined with resilient channels.... but it does not significantly improve room acoustics (ie: inside the room). On the other hand, reducing sound transmission by several db doesn't make a big difference when you are doing 110db in room... What kind of lighting are you going to be using? If it's pot lights... I wouldn't bother with the double gypsum as sound transmission through air leaks will outweigh that through the mass. Lifting 5/8 gypsum overhead is a pain in the a$$... Did you get around to finding a link to the iJoy chairs you got? www.intertemp.ca ... I do like the flexible seating idea... as most of us have to use the room for multiple purposes afterall. ROb

He probably never tried 3 way sax, cause it's fun every once and a while... [A]

Actually that would be nice.... i'm curious to the woodwork detailing esp for the top cabinet and that slim colar. ROb

Thanks Shawn... looking forward to your comparison posts... [] Actually i'd be curious to seeing two measurements taken without any changes... just to see the variances in the test (PC) system...

Great work on the H2's... nice to see the 2nd attempt worked out well.... One of the least used rooms in a home... glad you've made it multi-functional... []

Curious to what glue you used for the veneer... and how did it work for you? I've been considering converting a pair of khorns to have adjustable tops... and you've come up with an intriguing solution to it...[] nice work... ROb

lol... i think you got us all beat... []

You guys hear about the new law recently passed in Arkansas?? Apparently, when a couple gets divorced... they're still brother and sister.

In theory, yes... BUT... Unfortunately speakers become less efficient with increased output... so in reality it's less. That would explain why the LaScala (again 105db/1w/1m) is rated for 100W but a max output of only 121db... when in theory it should be about 125db. There is also the fact that many speakers will bottom out (or have their suspension extended to their max) before hitting their maximum power rating... further reducing the maximum output. but that is the gist of it... (don't you hate all the exceptions?) ROb

Thanks for the head's up... reasonably priced... and I enjoyed the last live DVD. Unfortunately I was less enamoured with this tour than his previous one... but sometimes that may have simply been an off night for him (or me... BTW.... that's odd the HD version is not available yet in Canada.

Isn't spring break supposed to be used for educational purposes?... the type of crash course given at the beach ...[A]

Oh... and to calculate the dbW... given it's referenced to 1W (ie: 1W = 0 dbW) you get the following 3db increase for each doubling or watts: 1 W = 0 dbW 2 W = 3 dbW 4 W = 6 dbW 8 W = 9 dbW 16 W = 12 dbW 32 W = 15 dbW 64 W = 18 dbW 128 W = 21 dbW 256 W = 24 dbW 512 W = 27 dbW 1024 W = 30 dbW

From the web: Logarithmic representation of a power level reference to 1W of power. For audio, it's basically the power output from the amp related to the db outputted by the speakers. This can give a more realistic feeling for the power increase between two amplifiers than the typical Watt rating. We already know that every doubling of the power (in Watts)... only increases the speakers output by 3db due to decibel's logarithmic scale. Note how dbW rating on the 400W and 800W are 3db apart? So what can you do with this number? Lets say you have Lascalas with a 105db/1W/1m and an 8ohm rating... and your amp actually puts out a clean 50W into 8ohms or ± 17dbW. So this amp will push your speakers to a 122db (105 + 17) maximum output if we were ignoring power compression and other factors of the like. Make any sense? ROb PS: LaScalas do have a maximum 121db output btw... but that's a whole different story...

Ummm.... i drove here... and will drive home later. [] Typical engineering degree... did my last exam on a friday, started working on the monday and haven't stopped since. A lot of people in Canada have college and university degrees, so the "degree" isn't quite as valuable in a monetary sense... but for me it represents more of a personal satisfaction in what I do, and in the knowledge I have gathered. ROb

Congrats again... it really is a beautiful HT / multi purpose room....

This does beg the question to why do you recognise him best, undressed from the rear?? [][] ... <runs out of room>

I agree on both counts... that open concept is nice but makes furniture (and speaker) placement difficult. I feel you'll have to choose their placement based on practicality rather than on ideals. (ie: where you won't trip over them...) I would reserve that front right corner (french door wall and fire place wall corner) for you sub... and front speakers near those windows on either side of you fire place. As for surrounds... well... I guess somewhere will have to do... Actually I'm not convinced you'll have a big benefit going front 5.1 to 7.1 given you have one row of seating in a shallow room? ROb

Ummm... fast bass? (... bass inherently has long wave lengths, and therefore is never "fast"... ). Perhaps you meant controlled... In any case, with bass intensive material, Lascala's lack of lower end is very obvious and it will benefit from a good sub. Problem is if you like to crank them every once and a while... you'll need a lot of sub... nice charts btw... ROb

^^^^^ ----- Roy works for Klipsch, incase he wasn't clear [A].... uthermalup

Actually, most building codes require FT4 rated wires in wall because of the toxins emitted by the burning wire insulation.... as well as for the spread of fire through the wall cavity. It's also easier to "pull" and more resistant to punctures. Because it's required by code... not using plenum wire could constitute a hidden vice for a future owner of the home. You can use either regular inwall electrical supply wire (three conductor) or inwall speaker wire (two or four conductors). Speaker wire is normally less waste full because it doesn't have an odd number of conduits (ie: ground wire). I used Belden FT4 12guage (both 2 and 4 conductor) wire I got from a local electronics surplus store... but have no problems with other brands (Carol, or whatever you have locally) ROb

If possible i'd go with in wall units as you will get better sound quality for a majority of your listening options listed. As Colter mentioned... Sitting in a chair will put your head about 3ft away... and you will get some pretty obvious peaks and dips depending on where you sit. ROb