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  1. Hi guys , i hope someone,can help me out with the following issue . I have a pioneer receiver Vsx 920 , so nothing special there. I just bought a new Klipsch R-10 SW woofer , and i ran the MCACC to let pioneer fine tune the speakers and new woofer . i have had the adjust knob at the back set to LFE and woofer gain at 40% as seen on picture below. I have set the the "on switch" to "Auto" And let it run..... he detects my speakers , detects the woofer and al well . After running everything and pioneer is ready with the "fine tuning" Then i start to watch tv and i wait..... but the subwoofer wont turn on automatically . then i start up spotify ...no woofer... a movie.....no woofer I have to keep switching the on and off switch to make use of its woofer . I thought maybe its the wrong cable? So i bought a new cable .. Oehlbach Nf subwoofer cable. still nothing , so i bought another cable of Monster subwoofer 400 sw cable. still nothing... I ran the MCACC again... checked the setting...i thought , maybe the volume was to low on the woofer. i noticed it was set to -10 DB ... so i switched it up to 0 DB , but stil no luck. I did a Hard reset on my reciever...and once again let MCACC run its course.... no luck Now im ran out of ideas, what to do....to make it work on auto setting....
  2. Hey guys this is unfortunately my first post here and it's to do with my one cracked woofer. I have a pair of Synergy F-3's and I did call Klipsch they no longer make or have stock of this woofer. I am trying to find a replacement, I know there is one on eBay right now but by the time it's all said and done I am looking at almost $200 CAD. I don't mind if it's not a Klipsch woofer that goes back in as it is just one but if anyone knows anyone selling parts for an F-3 do post here, hopefully in Canada as that is where I am located. I would like your opinion on what woofer to replace it with if I can not get an OEM part. I did post a picture to see if anyone knows if this is fixable instead of needing a whole new woofer?
  3. Hi, all. I'm Scott Grammer, a new member and old audio nut. I work on vintage audio for a living, and have done so for years, but I need advice on this subject. Specifically, I have a pair of Cornwall 1's made in 1968, and I can't help but wonder if the magnets on the (original) woofers may have begun to lose their charge. Does anyone have knowledge to share about this? Thanks! (Dear Moderator: If I have posted in error, please accept my apologies, and tell me how to fix it. Thanks.)
  4. I copied my round up post over from this thread, please list any other LaScala mods, threads and parts sources. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/149442-lascala-sonic-detail-improvement-for-only-22098/page-7#entry1926774 My LaScalas are circa 1980 Stock AA crossovers If I want to make improvements or changes in incremental steps, this is what I understand: Based on the above posts, and a conversation (2-3 years ago) with B Crites and the Klipsch factory support guy, the drivers in the LaScala don't wear out under normal circumstances. The capacitors, on the other hand do have an end of life, the transformer and inductor rarely fail (it would probably require an amp incinerating failure to fry the inductor or transformer). First: Update the 3 caps on the AA crossover, from the schematic in the pinned section. Stock: Sonicaps from Crites or others inc Parts Express brand. To me, stock always sounded very good 2x 2uF capacitors 1x 13uF Alternative Crossover update to lower the volume mids by 3db aka 50% decrease in power to Squawker. This is done to flatten the output across the bass and mids? I currently use an EQ to add output at the 400Hz point and rolling off into the up and down freqs from this point. 2x 2uF caps 1x 6.8 uF cap Both of these updates-mods are stand-alone and can be listened to and evaluated without further mods or repairs. Second This step could be either replace the K-77 (matched ?) phenolic tweeters with the Crites CT-125 EV driver with custom Crites Lens and titanium diaphragm. OR Replace the woofer with the Crites stamped Woofer $$, or Eminence Kappa 15C $, also mentioned above is the K-44 Factory $$$ woofer. http://www.parts-exp...-4-ohm--290-459 Both the tweeter and the woofer "upgrades" are standalone changes and require no mods to the crossover or anything else. Third If the K-77 is replaced with the Crites CT 125, as an option after moving to the CT-125.....the crossover point between the Squawker and the CT-125 can be lowered to take advantage of the increased range of the CT-125. Thread on CT-125 topic, one of many? https://community.kl...rs-in-la-scala/ Thread on Crossovers https://community.kl...pgrade-options/ Volti take on LaScala http://www.klipschup...upgrades2.shtml More horns + ALK http://www.alkeng.com/trachorn.html Alethia's take on custom crossovers http://www.aletheiaa...m/Services.html Crossover Options with CT-125: Do nothing leave at 400 and 6,000Hz, replace crossover 400 and 4,500 Hz, somehow modify existing crossover to 400 and 4,500. Forgot to mention the ALK Universal, I'm sure there are others.... The existing crossover may be modified, I don't know how. OR The AA crossover can be replaced with a new A 4500 from Crites http://www.critesspe...00-crossov.html "Problem with this is that the K-55 mid-range driver is pressed really hard to reach 6000hz. It would be much more linear in it's operation if the highest frequencies it has to reproduce were in the 4500hz area." Note: I'm guessing that PK the Designer was aware of this, and perhaps no better option was available than the EV K-77 tweeter, AND OR the mid-range K-55 is so sweet with the voice that it is better to leave as much of the voice as possible on the K-55 up to 400- 6KHz. Maybe if we had the engineer's notes we could know how the decision was made, I'm sure lots of trial and "does this sound better than"........ My opinion the LaScala: PK was a very good audio engineer, everything was done for a reason. Speakers that sound good, sell better. Was the mid range 400-6,000 intentionally boosted to put the human (Female) voice more forward aka Hear the Angels Singing? The K-55 really makes the angels sing. The low end could be better, a design trade off
  5. Hello, I have a pair of 1980 vintage BR LaScala's that were working just fine until yesterday. One of the woofers stopped working. Does anyone have an idea how to troubleshoot where the problem might be? Removing the woofer on these speakers is a chore and I want to make sure i take all the correct steps in troubleshooting before I do anything. THanks in advance. Best, b
  6. Recently acquired a pair of beautiful Heresy IIs in New Zealand. I had the house to myself and was playing them on the louder side. I noticed a small distorted sound come from the right speaker followed by silence in both the Midrange and Woofer. I've made sure it wasn't an issue with the amplifier, nor the crossovers and connections, by switching crossover between the speakers and checking connections. I have been doing my research reading similar posts on this forum. However, I'm at a loss as to how to replace the Midrange diaphragm? There doesn't seem to be any replacements in stock online currently. As for the woofer, it seems like the best action would to be either by a secondhand woofer from eBay, or completely swap out both drivers with third party replacements from someone like Crites? Thanks for any information. I desperately want to resolve the issue to get back to listening again.
  7. I bought an pair of the rp600m one year ago and now i start to notice a peculiar noise from one of the speakers - from the woofer - at low frequencies (an example: listening porcelain from red hot chilli peppers - the kick of the drum causes an excessive vibration on the cone). With vinyls when the stylus touchs the groove there are the issue again, its very present when a push the turntable start/stop button. When the disc are spinning is more audible in the interval of the tracks, in this case the vibration its kind of circular, there some kind of pattern. I changed the cables, turn the position in the room, verified the bornes from the amp, changed de channels left and right and also verified the ground and energy font, the problem continues in that speaker... I uploaded a record file of the issue so you can listen Voz 020_sd.m4a Voz 021_sd.m4a
  8. Hey there. I have a set of KG4”s that I am restoring. I ended up purchasing aftermarket woofers and have three klipsch woofers that need a home. One has no continuity, one a ripped surround, and one some buzzing while playing. I need to get them out of my house, but hate to throw them away. Does anybody know of somebody who may want them? Thanks, Jesse
  9. Hi All, I've searched, but couldn't find any info. I upgraded my speakers and there's noticeable difference in woofer colour between RP-600M (my old speakers) and RP-6000f (new). The RP-6000f's have more of a reddish hue while the RP-600M's are golden/copper kind of colour. Is that something Klipsch have changed or did I purchase some fake ones? Many thanks!
  10. What is the best La Scala replacement Woofer? Eminence Kappa 15C vs. Goldwood GW 15PC? Hey everyone: Original Klipsch La Scala K-33 woofer frequency range starts at 47 Hz Eminence Kappa 15C woofer is 63 to 2,800Hz https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-KAPPA-15C-15-Driver-4-Ohm-290-459?gclid=Cj0KCQjwk4yGBhDQARIsACGfAetqN1ctJTSiuoJtilclZaFs9RwDwchTxtUsqBsVA2FHFlVmKAywy9MaApPbEALw_wcB Goldwood GW 15PC is 25 Hz - 2500 Hz https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/shop/home-audio/woofers/15-1-woofers/goldwood-gw-15pc-15-heavy-duty-woofer/ It appears that using the Eminence Kappa 15C you'll loose 20 Hz on the bottom end. The La Scala's need as much low end as possible so why are these replacement woofers o highly recommended? I can't speak for the Goldwoods clarity or performance because I have never used/heard them installed in a La Scala but did notice their specs on paper look better than the Eminence Kappa 15C. Wouldn't the Goldwood GW-15 PC be a better choice for a replacement woofer?
  11. The theater room we are trying to set this up is 33 feet long and 16 feet wide. Looking to build a very good movie theatre system with budget around $12,000. Please suggest a system for the same. I currently have the following speakers already bought/some were form another old system. 1. Klipsch 5.25 2 way Bookshelf speaker - pair 2. Klipsch RP-140SA REFR PREM ATMOS.BK - pair 3. Klipsch- 8060FA-2-way FS SPKR W/DBY - Pair 4. Klipsch - RP280FA DOLBY ATMOS Front SPKR - Pair Now what of these can I use and what new i need to buy. need suggestions on Receiver as well please. Looking to build like a 11 point system. All suggestions welcome.
  12. ned

    Single k33b

    Hello. I have a single k33 from a 1979 Klipschorn that I don’t need. Measures 3.1 ohms on my home depot meter. Please see photos. Original leads still attached. $60 plus actual postage. Personal check is fine from long term forum members. Please see photos and please ask all questions you have prior to shipping. I replaced it with an electro voice. Functions fine to my ears. Will post another image in next post
  13. Looking to purchase a working, good sounding K9K woofer for my KG2's. I picked the pair up for free from a friend and they have been my first speaker restoration project. One of 'em has developed a persistent buzzing, though, especially in the lower frequencies, hence my WTB. I'd be interested in any other spare KG2 parts as well, but mainly looking for the K9K. Thanks!
  14. is there a way to create a piezocrystal subwoofer that can hit 1hz or lower?
  15. One of my drivers are cracked and needs to be replaced If you have one for sale please post here and your asking price. I am located in Ontario Canada so I would prefer to purchase from a fellow Canadian, but at this point I can't really choose.
  16. Hello, i have a big question, what is the difference between a woofer with a hard suspension against a soft suspension? For example a klipsch kpt 8001 with hard suspension on the woofer vs a klipsch rb 81 lo a soft suspension. Grettings.
  17. So, we got a new cat, (A home theater's mortal enemy I suppose) and he got his claw in the woofer, leaving a cut. I'm wondering if there's any way I can mitigate the damage? Or what the appropriate thing is to do here so it doesn't worsen over time? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!
  18. Hi there! First post here. Just picked up a beautiful pair of KG4s, brought them home... and what would you know my receiver is acting up. I was fiddling with it to try and figure out what was wrong, heard a loud pop, and when I later tested the speakers with a friend's functional Yamaha receiver one of the drivers had no sound coming out. So I'm desperately looking for a K8K Replacement! I have seen threads where people suggest clones, but haven't heard back about any experiences and would really rather keep them OEM. Does anyone have any K8Ks lying around or know where to get some? Worst case scenario, anyone have experiences with whether the 'clones' are up to par? Really want to get these amazing speakers back to working condition. Thanks!
  19. Hello everyone, I bought a couple of Klipsch Heresy I 1972 (Tweeter: K77 Midhorn: K700 plus K55V driver, woofer: K22E alnico NOT RED SURROUND OF H700 Model) They have Type C crossovers but the woofers impedance is 8 ohm. Do I have to change the crossovers on type D or E configuration?
  20. Just bought a Klipsch RSB-6 Sound bar system with wireless subwoofer. Subwoofer paired one time but after a few minutes just cut off. There are no longer any lights on speaker burning. The manual shows a button (to hold down) and a light (which supposed to flash until it pairs and then burns solid). There is no button on this speaker to push. Bottom line, the Woofer is off and cannot get it back on. Another forum says to unplug for a while, then reconnect and also check the connections to ensure nothing had come loose. Done both of those with no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  21. I'm new here (obviously--as evidenced by the profile, left of this post... ) I'm in no hurry, but am in the market for some heritage Klipsch to improve my current system. As I read about the different designs--voodoo mystery is keeping me awake at night: 1. Why does a Cornwall, with a 15" driver, extend down to 38 Hz; but, an RF5, with 8" drivers, extends down to 34 Hz? This makes no sense to my small brain. 2. The 15" driver moves more air than two 8" drivers--and I speculate this translates to a difference in the quality of sound produced; but, what is this difference? If I had unlimited funds, I would buy everything and keep what I like. Alas, this is not me. Would anyone care to comment?
  22. Hello all, I recently got a set of Forte's and I love them already. They sound great, but I plan to get the Crite's upgrades soon. I've noticed an issue with the front and passive woofers though.. When I turn the volume up too high (higher than I usually play them) the woofers begin to kind of lose control and become very distorted, they start to shake violently and the only way to stop it is to turn the volume back down. This only happens with vinyl also, not with CDs. The needle/cartridge on my turntable are only about 7mo/1.5years old, respectively. Anybody else experience this or know how I might go about fixing this? This is my first post on here btw, many forums have been helpful to me in the past. I couldn't find a post with this specific problem so I decided I would post it myself. Any help is greatly appreciated!
  23. SW-350 PayPal payment only, asking $200 (Shipping cost to be paid by buyer and shipping from 77096 (approx $30 ground???) Description Bought for home A/V project which never happened, description from website. Been in box for approx. 10 months. Never used, never opened. Klipsch SW-350 is an 8-inch subwoofer that is designed to deliver rich, powerful bass, driven by a Class D amplifier, resulting in high efficiency and low heat dissipation. The fiber-composite cone of this 8-inch subwoofer reproduces bass with exceptional clarity. Frequency response of 31 Hz to 120 kHz, black vinyl finish gives this subwoofer an aesthetic appearance. Model SW-350 MPN 1010438, 23452407 Technical Details Frequency Responses 31 Hz - 120 Hz Sensitivity 111 dB Subwoofer Power 350 watt Connectivity Wired Dimension Width 12.5 in. Depth 17 in. Height 15.5 in. Woofer Size 8 in. More pictures can be provided if requested, but items are all boxed so that might not help very much. ALSO NETWORK GEAR Available: PayPal payment only, asking $300 (Shipping cost to be paid by buyer and shipping from 77096 - approx $10 to $15 ground???) Never Used, Never Powered up. 16-Port Gigabit Ethernet PoE+ Web-Managed Switch with 2 SFP Ports 16 x PoE ports, IEEE 802.3at/af Power over Ethernet (PoE+/PoE), 2 x SFP, 19" Rackmount Model Number: 560931 The Intellinet 16-Port Gigabit Ethernet PoE+ Web-Managed Switch with 2 SFP Ports (560931) is designed to pass both data and electrical power to a number of PoE-compatible devices via standard Cat5e or Cat6 network cables. Equipped with sixteen Gigabit Ethernet ports, all of which support 802.3at/af Power over Ethernet (PoE/PoE+), this switch can power Wireless LAN access points and bridges, VoIP (Voice over Internet Protocol) telephones, IP surveillance cameras and more while delivering network speeds of up to 1,000 Mbps. Power over Ethernet 802.3at The Intellinet 16-Port Gigabit Ethernet PoE+ Web-Managed Switch with 2 SFP Ports supports the IEEE 802.3at protocol and is designed to inject up to 30 watts of power per port. 10/100/1000 auto-sensing ports automatically detect optimal network speeds All RJ45 ports with Auto-MDIX (auto uplink) support Supports NWay auto-negotiation Store and forward switching architecture Full/half duplex operation Supports 802.3x flow control for full duplex mode and collision-based backpressure for half duplex mode Supports jumbo frames up to 10 kBytes Complies with the IEEE 802.3az (Energy Efficient Ethernet EEE) specification Green Ethernet power-saving technology deactivates unused ports and adjusts power levels based on the cable length 512 kBytes buffer memory Supports up to 8192 MAC address entries Supports MAC address auto-learning and auto-aging Includes 19" rackmount brackets Fanless design ideal for silent operation Finally, one more item: PayPal payment only, asking $90 (Shipping cost to be paid by buyer and shipping from 77096 - approx $10 to $15 ground). Never Used, Never Powered up 24-Port Gigabit Ethernet Rackmount Switch Manufacturer: Intellinet; Model #: 524162 The Intellinet Gigabit Ethernet Rackmount Switch, model 524162, offers an array of features while providing superior network throughput. Extreme Flexibility - Twenty-four 10/100/1000 Mbps auto-sensing ports automatically detect optimal network speeds. Extreme Throughput - With a backplane speed of 48 Gbps, there is plenty of performance available for your computers, servers and other networking devices. UPC: 766623524162 SKU: 524162 Brand: Intellinet MPN: 524162 Product Type: Ethernet Switch Power Source: Power Supply Layer Supported: 2 Weight (Approximate): 8.53 lb Form Factor: Rack-mountable Network Technology: 10/100/1000Base-T Brand Name: Intellinet Height: 1.7 Width: 17.3 Depth: 5.1 Manageable: No Compatible Rack Unit: 1U Redundant Power Supply: No Ethernet Technology: Gigabit Ethernet Modular: No Stack Port: No Media Type Supported: Twisted Pair Total Number of Network Ports: 24 PoE (RJ-45) Port: No
  24. These were purchased some years back and were installed in an "experimental" Cornwall cab that used Forte horns. These have never been driven hard, and are in like new condition. I have no use for them. Buy my cabinets I've advertised and start yourself building a pair of Cornwalls. Bob carries these for $240/pair new + $25 shipping. I offer them here at $200/pair + $25 shipping - save $40 and get yourself some nice woofers at a discount. These are DUSTY - hence the "discoloration" on the left cone. I accept PayPal. Thank you! Chris .
  25. If the voice coil is rubbing in your Klipsch woofer, don't throw it out yet. Some folks think it means the voice coil is blown or burnt up. It might just be out of alignment. The easy way to tell is look at the spider and see if it has become unglued from the frame. Here is a video showing a detached spider: I am using a gell type super glue. I had it on the shelf. Slow drying epoxy would work too. Here are some pictures I took as I was doing the repair. Cut the dust cap off, and put a couple thick business cards down into the former. This will center the voice coil, and thereby lign up the spider you are about to glue up. Make a way to get the glue in between the spyder and the frame. Without some modifications, this will never work: I used what I had laying around to get that glue in there. Some stirring sticks, some shrink tubing, and some duck tape. What else does a hillbilly need? I applied some heat to bend the stirring stick. Then I cut it off to make it just the right length. Pretend like the glass isn't there. It was impossible to take a picture with my iphone while operating a lighter and holding a stirring stick. Now I cut it off to just the right length. Continued
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