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  1. Is there a reason why Klipsch didn't fit a "plug" to fill the cut-out that provides access to the woofer in the La Scala? I wondered if the cut-out was left for manufacturing convenience or if that void might be part of the acoustic path design. I'm wondering if it might be a good idea to fit a plug to fill the void and attach it to the access panel. This would provide a (more or less) smooth surface under the woofer, without impeding access to it. I didn't find anything related to this question when searching the forum. I'm sorry if it has been discussed already
  2. Beautiful set of walnut Belles, only minor flaws on the cabinets with a little more obvious damage on 1 lower corner, not noticeable unless you’re looking for it. I’m in Chattanooga and am happy to demo them for you here. Delivery is also available within a reasonable distance from 37343. they are available with the original ab crossovers for $2800 or with the super aa for $3000, I would like to keep the set of crossovers you don’t take. more pics upon request.
  3. Original Video Tour of Youthman's LaScala Trio Home Theater on Youtube UPDATED Video Tour of Youthman's LaScala Trio Home Theater Renovation on Youtube High Resolution Pics of Completed System It's finally time to begin my HT 2.0 Build so I figured I would start a dedicated Build Thread here. Wakejunkie is getting ready to begin construction of the new front cabinet wall and this evening, he sent me the final sketchup file that he designed and needless to say, I'm PUMPED!!! The screen will have two hidden latches (similar to door handles on a car) that will release the screen. Gas shocks will hold the screen open. The bottom three middle compartments will be able to slide forward via a 500lb max capacity commercial rail system. This will allow for MUCH easier access to the rear components. The RSW-15 will be moved underneath one of the main LaScalas. Here are the latest renderings from Wake but they do not show the Lighting under the curve and the rear view does not show that the top cabinets will be actual cabinets.
  4. I recently acquired a pair of 1986 Lascalas. The raw birch cabinets had some damage (chips, delamination, chewed-off corner) that I have mostly repaired. I’m now about to strip the existing polyurethane and refinish them. I’ve spent a lot of time on this site and the web (e.g., Volti site) trying to ascertain how best to proceed. I was thinking about laminating a ¼” Baltic birch panel to the sides, top, and bottom (but not the front or the back) and then applying veneer on the top, bottom, sides and front (but not the back). 1) Will adding the ¼” panels hurt the value of the speakers? If so, I’ll likely not add them. Adding the ¼” panels would increase the rigidity of the cabinets and provide a smooth surface for the veneer. I’ll use Tite-Bond (PVA glue) to laminate the ¼” panels to the cabinets. Although I have some clamps, I’ll rely on weights and some pin nails to hold the panels while the glue dries. 2) I’d welcome any suggestions about better ways to laminate the panels to the cabinets. I’ll be using sheets of paper-backed veneer. I’m concerned about how best to apply the veneer, specifically how to avoid bubbles/poor adhesion when applying it and chip-out/tearing when trimming it. I’ve been thinking of cutting the veneer slightly oversize, gluing it to the cabinet with contact cement, and then using a flush-trim bit in a router to cut it to size. Alternatively, I could glue the veneer to the ¼” panels before installing them and then install the veneered panels (using Tite-Bond, pin nails, and weight) but I’d still have to use the former approach for the front of the cabinets. 3) I’d welcome advice about how best to apply the veneer, especially from those that have “been there and done that”. I’m scouring this site and the web looking for images of Lascalas to help choose a type of veneer and finish for the speakers. 4) I’d appreciate seeing images of Lascalas that might help me choose the veneer and finish for the speakers. 5) What have people done with the exposed end-grain on the cut-outs for the tweeter and sqawker (see photo)? Those curved surfaces would be tricky to veneer so I'm thinking of just painting them a flat or satin black. I have other questions pertaining to how to finish the bins. I’ll post those in another message. Thank-you. Dave MacKay near Toronto, Canada
  5. Optimal Cartridge for a Technics SL 1210: 2M Blue or Bronze, Super OM 30, Denon DL-110, AT 150 series (AT 150MLX or 150Sa), or AT 440 MLa, MlLb or new VM 540? Hi Folks: Not sure where to post this. Let me know if it belongs elsewhere. Most of the info below is tell you folks about me and my gear. You can skip it if you like, as it is a bit detailed. My Technics SL1200 ?M3D is no more. Also gone is the Nigthclub S Cartridge and extra stylus. I still have the Music MMF-5 with a Goldring cartridge (?1024?), from about 10 years ago. It is my bedroom rig in New Orleans, I was never very happy with this, but completely different set up from what is noted below, except for the Onkyo. I work up in the DC area now and I have Klipsch LaScalas for my front speakers, Heresy Is for center and rear and a Fender 18” pro audio ported subwoofer (for which there is virtually no info on the web, nor from Fender). The LaScalas are “bright”, even for LaScalas. Therefore, I really do not need an over “bright” TT cartridge. I have a Pro-Ject - Debut Carbon Esprit SB (DC), 2M Red. It was bought knowing it had some damage and I got a 2M Blue stylus to put on the straight TT arm to replace the mangled Red stylus. It sounds very nice, but I have never had another needle on it. I do not intend to replace it. Also have a Pro-Ject Audio - Tube Box DS – Black phono pre amp. I have never compared this to anything else either. Seems to work fine. I only have a small studio apt now so I use the Tube Box for any / all TTs. Thank goodness for thick walls in an older building !! I use an Onkyo TX SR 805. Also about 10 years old. It is an all in one receiver, but with a very good amp for such a unit. I have acquired 3 additional TTs: Technics SL-1800 (repaired), 1210 MK5 and 1210 M5G (one of the 1210s also got minor repairs locally, the other has a gimpy ?gimble point on the tone arm, but it works fine – for now). (Long story on getting them.) Not sure I want to do the KAB fluid dampers on these now, nor any other modding now. Might consider mods after I get a good needle. They came with various used cartridges including an AT 92E, Stanton Groovemasters, etc. I have no way to know how “used” any of the cartridges and styli are. That said, none sound bad. I would like to have 1 good needle that I can easily interchange between these 3 TTs. Therefore, some sort of plug and play set up would be ideal, whether via a compatible cartridge mounted onto a head shell or a DJ needle, Best reccs for a DJ needle seem to be for the Ortofon Arkiv, but I doubt that it would be as good as any in the post title for regular hifi listening. I mostly listen to Jazz, Blues, 60s/70s rock, Disco, etc. I should also state that many of the dozen or so records I have up in DC now have seen better days and all were bought used. I have cleaned some of them, and yes there was gunk on them. The gunk and scratches were one reason to leave out the Super OM-40, as some web postings said that all the scratches etc are easily noted with the 40. Combined with the horn loaded speakers, I think the sound of nice new vinyl might be great, but most all of my 150+ records in NOLA are from the cheap used bin. I have listened to most of them before buying to make sure that that the records were at least in ok shape. 2M Blue- sounds fine on the Pro Ject and some say it is ok with the SL1200s. $210/165 (cartr/stylus, LP Gear or TTNeedles). It is mounted onto the Pro Ject arm and I am not going to mess with it. However, I would consider a second Blue on a headshell for the Technics TTs. Some really like the Bronze, but I do not know if either Blue or Bronze is a good match for my 3 Technics TTs when compared to the OM 30 or others listed here. $370/290. Super OM 30 gets good comments on the web. However, more postings seem to favor the ATs or Denon. $290/220, so more than Blue, but less expensive than a Bronze. TTN Jico Shibata stylus for OM 10, 20, 30, 40: $160 Super OM 40 might be better for those with high quality records, as I guess you hear every pop and such in the vinyl. Some folks on the web preferred the 30. $385/300. Denon DL-110 is said to be well mated to the 1200 series. However, there is no separate stylus for this cartridge, and setting the mount properly might be difficult. It might also be too bright for my LaScalas and Heresy’s. $200-300 AT 150 series (AT 150MLX or 150Sa) is said to be a real step up from the 440s – but so is the price. I am not really sure how much difference there is from the Sa to the MLX. $270-450/335. Perhaps the bargain, if I could score a Sa for $270 and if the Sa is similar to the MLX. AT has just released the VM740ML, VM750SH and VM760SLC to replace the 150s, but I know very little about them. AT 440 MLa, MlLb or new VM 540 get good reviews. MLb is $199/179 I have a few Mono records, not sure the $90.00 OM D25M is worth it for me. One potential advantage to the OM 30 is if I could get a stylus for the D25M that would work mounted onto the OM30 cartridge. Also note that some plug and play or otherwise premounted to headshell sets are available from some of the web retailers. There were also some comments about how difficult some of these are to set up. Any advice appreciated. From NOLA with love.
  6. Hello all, Above all, I'm not familiar with Internet forums, so please inform me if there is anything inappropriate. And, thank you for your help and advice. Long-story short, I'm now considering having a sound system again. More than 10 years ago, after spending years in a rabbit hole of hifi shopping, somehow I lost all interest, so out of trend now. I want to have things as simple as possible this time. Here's what I am looking for. I'm in SoCal and far from rich, so a listening space is not that big. - 10' x 15' space or 15' x 15' space available - Considering Klipschorn AK6/La Scala AL5/Cornwall IV/RF-7 III - As a modern set-up the closest thing that I know personally is B&W 803 D3. - More precisely I want something better than B&W 702 S2. - Side story - B&W's recent Formation Duo was pleasant surprise - This makes me to believe in simplicity. - Little bit warmer sound but crisp details, and depth description especially for piano parts are what I am looking for. - All my music source would be AIFF / WAV files from CD. - I will use iPhone/iPad/Mac to store and play songs. - I will stay in this way despite some drawbacks. - This speaker is for strictly Classical Music (Piano) and Jazz. - More precisely Artur Rubinstein, Martha Argerich, Richter, Glen Gould, Horowitz / Bill Evans and Dave Brubeck - Again, focused on Piano sound (which is really tricky...) - I would sincerely appreciate any advice, information or insight from your experience. - Randomly, I heard that La Scala AL5 might not have enough bass (though I do not expect this weakness would apply to Classic Music / Jazz). Still if I need to add subwoofer to compensate the sound, I'm more than willing to go for AK6. - I want my set-up to be as simple as possible. (not going to go to the rabbit hole again) - Simply 2speakers (without woofer, hopefully, if this doesn't make day-and night different) + Music Source - Open for any opinion and advice. - If someone has similar tastes in music, please educate me about your other set up. (amp etc, I want to know how other people enjoy their time) - Lastly, if my listening space is too small, please also inform me. - I face this problem when I was dealing with McIntosh. (I need a bigger house to hear the sound I want. ) Again, I really appreciate your thoughts and time. I want to choose the system that I spend my next 20 years. Thank you.
  7. Hey gang. Thought I would share the custom heritage channel I made for my LaScala based home theater. This started when I refurbished a vintage pair of La Scalas (AA crossover). After some excellent two channel listening, I decided to convert that room into a theater room and went about collecting 4 Academies for surrounds. I got super lucky when a single LaScala (later model with a AK-3 Crossover) became available. The problem I had was that the third 'Scala was too tall in the center position as for comfy viewing I wanted my screen lower. After some research, consulting Mr. Crites, and enlisting the help of a friend with a woodworking shop, I scavenged the tweeter, midhorn, got the crossover Mr. Crites sells for his Cornscala design, estimated the surface area of the Cornsacala woofer and translated that to two Classic Woofers from PartsExpress, and designed a cabinet to hold everything w/ proper cabinet volume and can fit under the screen, and voila: The LaSquata The results are beyond my expectations. Wide dispersion, crystal clear clear voice tracks on movies, matching timbre and response. I am powering this with an NAD AVR and added two HSU 15" subs. It's quite epic, comparable to a commercial movie theater and the whole house shakes during LFE segments.
  8. I’ve recently acquired my very first set of lascala’s (‘88) and have Crites updates on the way. Is it ok to use 14 awg speaker wire w/ like connectors to replace the stock XO to driver cables - or should I use something else? I don’t have a problem with them, but it seems logical to replace the stock versions if also updating the XO and tweeters.
  9. I have a pair of vintage LaScala speakers for sale in the Los Angeles area. I am the original owner of these Birch veneer covered speakers purchased in the 80's. $1,399.00 for the pair OBO
  10. I am looking at a pair of La Scala that came out a of a local theater. They are 1974 units. One is missing one of the K77 tweeters otherwise everything is pretty much untouched. They are black plywood/ lacquer paint cabinets, have little Klipsch badges on the wood in the top corners. How difficult is it going to be for me to find one or a pair of K-77 AlNiCo tweeters from that era? Currently running HK730 with KG4s and HK430 with KG2s. Really would like to own these La Scalas as a natural progression into Kilpschland. Still debating with guy he wants $1,000 for them. Would like to grab them for around $600. Any opinions?
  11. LaScala Touring edition for sale. 2 pairs plus bottom ends. 6 boxes total. Best offer takes them. Make me an offer. Or trade for Yamaha QL1 used like this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202830594527?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true
  12. For sale are a beautiful pair of matching SN 1977 Klipsch LaScala's. These have upgraded Bob Crites Crossovers and CT-125 tweeters. These are in their original factory condition with exception of the crossovers and tweeters. Super nice condition, no major dings or scratches anywhere. The natural birch was recently re-sanded and 2 coats of lacquer were applied. The natural birch looks amazing!. Local pickup in the Cincinnati Ohio area. Text if interested. *5136165622* Thanks for looking! $2500 obo
  13. Superelliptical tractrix horn for tweeter - a.k.a small rain from a big cloud. Why a.k.a. It took me several years to actually implement this idea and originally I was planing it for 400Hz horn. I started to think about it in Forte days, I was planing to build some external mid/high horn for fun. Then as replacement horn for La Scala. Original material suppose to be something else. Don't know English name but I was planing it as cast made of polymer resin with mineral filler. Friend of mine was doing round horns with it and I really liked the product. So as I said got idea maybe 5 or more years ago, I did math, CAD project and laid it into a drawer for a long time. Doing large horns is really challenging. Inspired by Dave A work on tweeters I thought why not try something much smaller fist. So I ended with small solid beech wood tweeter horn instead of huge cast resin one. OK so why Superellipse? It's fun curve. Special cases of this curve are circle, ellipsis and in the end rectangle. By manipulating basic curve parameters we can do smooth transition from circle to rectangle or in this specific case rectangle with rounded corners and all the way be compliant with Tractrix horn flare. Why to bother when we have elliptical horns? Because using same front area we can make horn with lower cut of frequency without having any sharp edges on wave path. So basically join elliptical and rectangle horn strong points. Of course it's not always desirable to have lowest cut of freq but in this case math looked good. I have created parameterized xls sheet witch which I can control how transition from circular throat changes to semi rectangular mouth. Horn is calculated for 1544Hz and has good loading from 4147Hz (strange tails but I was shooting for particular mouth size) For this particular horn for half of length it goes smoothly from circle to ellipsis and then shape starts to be more rectangular. But this is fluent and I could make it almost rect from the beginning. From math I did FreeCAD project (or actually my xls almost generates it). Then I had to find someone who will make wooden prototype. It's not so easy to find someone who wants to play with such "large", 4 items, orders, but finally I did. As always with prototype not everything is 100% correct so cut off is probably bit higher but as proof of concept it went well. I stained it little bit and painted with semigloss lacquer I decided to use B&C DE120 for it. Guess I was not reading too carefully because to use it I needed to scrap some wood from top hat to fit drivers magnet. I did some measurements to compare K77 square, K77 round in original horns and DE120 to mine. Looks fine. Green is round, red is square, blue is DE120. Don't pay attention for reference level, my mike has +3 or more dBa from 16kHz but as reference to other K77 measurements it's fine. Currently my system plays better then ever. Unfortunately I cannot say it's all because of horn/tweeter change. At the same same I went from passive to fully active system. So currently I'm using active digital crossover (Najda DSP) with 6 channel Rotel amp. Additionally to normal crossover points I did full time delay alignment for all drivers. With everything changed I really love to listen live recordings. For good realizations it sometimes gives me an illusion of being actually there at time of a concert. Now it's time for bass extension with La Scala bass reflex mod
  14. I searched and did not find this review having been posted here before. https://www.tonepublications.com/old-school/the-klipsch-lascala/ Enjoy. WMcD
  15. while I await my ES crossovers from ALK I have been playing with my series I LaScala's trying to improve the imaging. One well know mod is to wrap the K400 in Dynamat, I did that and listened to it for a few days, it was great with no negative impact and it did clean up the sound a bit. After enjoying the horn mod I decided to dynamat the upper box, the imaging is even better but you do loose some efficiency and some mid range, over all the modded side was a consistent 1dB lower, but the sound was yet again improved, modded the other side and imaging was yet again improved to the point they hardly resemble a stock LaScala, the listening fatigue is nearly gone. After talking to my local hifi shop that carries Klipsch, Vandersteen, Revel,B&W and Wilson we talked about the huge lengths companies like wilson and Vandersteen go to in dampening their cabinets, and with the theory that vibration leads to distortion my last and final mod was to dumpster dive my garage, I found some barbell weights and egg crate foam. A single 10# weight placed under the K400 in each speaker on a piece of egg crate to reduce vibration and additional foam randomly stuffed in the upper cabinet to reduce sound escaping out the back of the upper cabinet now makes for a little less efficient but much more accurate listening experience. Note: I do use a sub so I was not concerned with the loss of bass Power comes from a Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum rolled with KT120s so speaker efficiency are not a top priority with 100watts.
  16. Hey Folks, I work with teens at the Boys & Girls Club and we've recently acquired four very old (in poor shape, paint, rust, etc.) LaScala speakers. Three of the four are "working" (don't seem to sound quite right), the other has no bass. I'm not up to date with all the technical info I see on the posts but believe that with our wood shop we'd be able to refinish the boxes and replace the workings. What we need is a simple list of the parts (and where to order) to make them like new. Thinking we can sell a pair to pay for the project. I've had a pair of these speakers for 40 years and know how good they can sound. Thanks for any suggestions.
  17. Finally, after a year with my 1988 LaScala, I replaced the AL type crossovers with a constant impedance set. I took good care to simulate and then measure the results and i am now an happy camper :-) I decided that a fix L Pad will be my preferred way to attenuate the mid range. The original attenuation was 6 DB, but in order to make them more lively, I opted for a 4 DB pad. What are your preferred attenuation? Dan
  18. Located in Northern CA. Asking $1300.
  19. I have no affiliation with the seller. Thanks, Moriceman He or she is asking $150.00 https://neworleans.craigslist.org/ele/d/klipsch-k400-vintage-horns/6762532006.html
  20. Late updating this, but items have been sold This post hurts the soul a bit. The time has come with me to part with my current system and rebuild. I will add pics tomorrow (ironically my personal computer is at the office). While the prospect of building a new system excites me, parting with some of these is gonna hurt. I put this system together in 2012 while living the single life. Last year, I went and did the unthinkable. I got married! While the wife has been accommodating for awhile, our recent move has soured her forgiving mood on the big toys. I need to downsize (but not too much ). Selling: 2012 Jubilees (Cherry finish) w/ K402 horns: $6500. These come with the original K-69 drivers. Still have original boxes and shipping materials. I purchased these in 2012 from the factory (original owner). The boxes have some wear from 2 moves but the speakers are perfect. TAD TD-4002 drivers: $1500. These REALLY make the 402 horns sing! If purchased together, will part with the Jubs/TAD combo for $7500. The Jubs come in the cherry wood finish and have no blemishes. Also for sale: 2011 LaScala II (Single): $2500. Also in cherry, used as part of JubScala center in my setup. No scratches anywhere. MINT condition. Also ordered from factory. Again box is a little beat up but the unit itself is perfect. K402 Horn w/ K-69 Driver: $500. Used in JubScala center DX38 (qty 2): Each with Roy's recommended settings. One has the jubilee setting for the TADs already programmed, and the other the JubScala setting. ($300 ea) Danley DTS-10 (qty 2): $1000 for the pair. They perform flawlessly, but the cabinets are not pristine. They have been through 2 moves and did not receive the love that the Jubs/LaScala did. Thankfully they're built like tanks. Never dropped. KPT-200 pair: $200 for the pair. Used as surrounds in my system. Located in Seattle. Can deliver a considerable distance (I like road trips and the holidays are coming up), or can arrange shipping with prospective buyers. Pics coming your way tomorrow! Only have a few pics for now. I'll have to go through some older photos.
  21. Location 98312 Bremerton Wa. This listing if for the grills only, 125.00 plus shipping and fees. Below you will find other items as well. 1. Lascala bass bin braces from Volti Audio 2. Jbl 2426j compression drivers 3. K77 tweeters orig coils Having first upgraded (then sold) my Lascala, to move on to Belle, ive upgraded (altered) the Belle now and have for sale some items left from both projects. For sale here is a set of the top hat frames from Belle. Having gone with new ones, i simply dont need these any more. I WANT to keep them, but... anyway. They, and the grill are in orig and Ex+ condition. Felt compelled to offer them here first. Quite literally, these are in Ex cond, no snags or dingle balls, emblems are included. I also have JBL 2426j drivers (new JBL diaphrams) 16 ohm., as well as bass bin braces for the lascala (with lower grill covers to hide the braces) from Dave Harris (never installed) My ability to ship, is second to none.
  22. Hello Folks: Just Did Comparison Audio Recordings of 3 TTs and 3 Cartridges I hope this is posted to the correct part of the Forum. Today, I just wanted to make certain that the cartridge physically worked. It does. Although more break in time and tweaking are likely needed. I ran 3 tests today. Most all of my records were bought used, and most are in reasonable though not pristine shape. Each test therefore used a somewhat clean record (but with a couple big fingerprint smudges which are common in my mostly used record collection). I chose somewhat wisely as no loud pops are noted, the record was not warped and had no significant scratches. Bruce Springsteen, Born in the USA. Chosen in part because I thought others might have this for comparison purposes, no bad scratches, and no bad warps. It would be great to get test audio files from others for comparison. Testing gear: Pro-Ject - Debut Carbon Esprit SB (DC), Ortofon 2M Blue needle. The TT was bought with a damaged body (nothing that affects the sound) and I swapped out a broken red stylus for a new Blue. No mounting changes were made to the cartridge. Middle string weight position. Technics SL 1210 MK5, bought used and the mounting gimbal might not be in great shape. Stanton Groovemaster cartridge that is blue in color, used, but no idea of prior history of either the TT nor DJ cartridge. Heavy DJ use suspected. Not recently rebalanced. Technics SL 1210 M5G, bought used. New cheap head shell ($15.00 or so) and new AT 33 EV MC cartridge. I bought the 33 on a great sale. So for the price, I decided to give it a try. The screw lengths in the 33 package were a cluster – only 1 screw was of perfect length. I had to “adjust” a longer screw on the other side, so perhaps that subtle difference in weight might cause an issue, though no tilt was obvious. On my stereo, the LT channel was clearly emphasized (or RT side was too quiet). 1.8gr tacking force, the minimum for the cartridge was used. This was not tested with a gauge, only via spinning the counterweight knob. VTA was set to zero position which gave close to parallel positioning. The needle tip looked to be in good position using the SL 1200 overhang gauge. I have never had much luck with the protractors, so I only guestimated this. Phono or TT preamp: Pro Ject Tube Box DS. Bought with the P J TT. Ugly box, but preamp looked pristine. Settings: MM cartridges: pins cross at 40dB and 100pF on both LT and RT sides (as per directions for Ortofon 2M Red). AT 33 EV treated as a Low Output MC (LOMC) due to 0.3 mV output. It is listed at 100 ohms, but the Tube Box manual notes that no pins should cross per capacitance, so I pulled the pins at 40 dB, pulled out the 100pF pin, and placed the only crossing pin at F/V for LT and RT sides and dial was at 10 (as noted for the Ortofon Rondo Red). NO other settings were tested today. Receiver: Onkyo TX SR 805. From around 2007, also bought used. Great shape. My preferred all in 1 unit due to highly rated amp. Tape IN used for preamp input, not the phono input. VCR OUT (Tape out did not work) for recording to desktop computer LINE IN (blue color on the back of the desktop). Cables: nothing fancy. All electronics plugged into same surge protector 8 outlet extension device. Ground wire from TT to Preamp. Another ground wire from Preamp to Onkyo phono grounding pin. There were some audio hum issues before recordings were done, but none were noted during recordings. All TTs were pretty close to level via green level bubble. Audacity was the free software used for the W10 PC. The Groovemaster SL1210 was by far the loudest. So Audacity levels were reduced to about 33%. I thought the sound was ok / good. The Ortofon Blue Pro Ject combo was the next loudest and native Audacity recording level of about 50% was used. I thought this sounded best via Klipsch LaScalas in simple stereo mode. I have a Fender Pro 18” subwoofer too. I have a tiny studio apt where these were tested today. The AT 33 EV was tested after only 2 minutes of prior use by me. It was quiet and I set the Audacity levels to 80% or so. The only reason for the test today was to ensure that the AT 33 EV worked as this was my last day to return the cartridge if it was a dud. So I accept that break in time is needed and likely some more “fiddling” as well. I was not impressed at 2 minutes of use….LOL. On my stereo, I had to readjust the volume for each TT to get a similar loudness. Please bear in mind I have never done this before so I do not know how to edit the sound files at all. There is about 10-20 seconds of dead time from when I start the recording on the computer until I run to the TT and do the needle drop. Only recorded about 60-90 seconds of the Born in the USA tract. Should be enough for listening and comparison purposes. I also do not know how to equalize the recording volumes. They all sounded crappy via my tiny computer monitor speakers. Please let me know your thoughts or how to edit. Seems like the max size for attachments here is 2MB and my recordings are 15-17 MB each. If appropriate, where else to post the comparison that allows uploads of the audio recordings? From NOLA with love
  23. What tube amps are in use here with LaScala's and what has been tried. I would just like to know what has been tried and why it works for you. Comments from owners of other Heritage speakers using tube equipment are welcome also. I recently sold my tube equipment and am deciding what direction to go next. Tubes only please.
  24. Hello all... haven't been on in a long while. Hate to do it but I need to sell my LaScalas. Medical/living expenses and not having any health insurance have forced my hand. I've got 2 pair available. Here is the link to: My other pair... 2002 Birch Lacquered This pair are 1999 Birch Raw with the AL-3 crossover and brown grilles. All original drivers and no changes to the crossovers. No boxes. Serial Numbers: LSBR18 - 99440001 & 0002 According to the previous owner (I'm the 3rd owner), the mid-horn's had some type of silver foil backed damping applied to them (visible in the photos). And they may have had a very light coat of clear lacquer applied to them (they don't feel raw, but they're not as silky smooth as my other factory lacquered pair). Whether they were lacquered or not, they have a nice reddish/blond patina. But they have not gotten any darker since I bought them. General condition I'd say is an 8/8.5 with good corners. But there are a few nicks/scratches here and there. The grilles are in excellent condition and the Klipsch badges are flat and intact. I've had them quite awhile and they were bought here in the DFW area. This pair was in my 5 channel, all LaScala system, that I had in my home. They were rotated in/out of the center channel position every year or so. But they've been sitting in the back of my apartment for the last year collecting "LaScala dust". I'm asking $1100, but if someone was interested in buying both pair, I'd be willing to knock 8-10% or so off the price. Cash is king, but I do have a PayPal account (plus fees) if that would be better for you. These are local pickup only. And I'm in a 2nd story apartment right now, so you'd need a two wheeler and some help to get them down the stairs. Though with notice I can probably get my brother over here to help move them. I'm located in Mansfield, Texas... zip 76063. If you have any questions, please let me know... Thanks, Tony
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