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Cinema F-20 build thread


CECAA850

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Were you trying to cut it in one pass? Any reason you didn't use a saw?

I'd hate to be around a router bit when it broke in action!!!

EDIT, I blew the pic up. I normally go 3 passes when I cut 3/4" with a router, but I normally am only cutting driver holes.

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Were you trying to cut it in one pass? Any reason you didn't use a saw?

I'd hate to be around a router bit when it broke in action!!!

EDIT, I blew the pic up. I normally go 3 passes when I cut 3/4" with a router, but I normally am only cutting driver holes.

I was cutting 12mm ply one pass down the middle to make internal horn path panels. I think I was pushing to hard with the speed to fast, in a rush, and the bit overheated and fractured just above the cut.

I don't use the table saw as the sheets are 2400x1200mm and require to much space before and after the saw. Plus there is a chance of screwing up the cut when your doing it by yourself.

A hand saw on a sled sends dust everywhere so I use the router with the vacuum dust attachment and the barrel vacuum cleaner you can see in the background on the bench. There is no dust and while the cut is 6mm rather than 3mm it's always straight.

It was a non event when it broke just felt a thump and saw the router bit missing the end which had just dropped onto the floor directly below. The router ended up about 1 inch from the fail point before I stopped pulling it along the guide. I got a new bit this morning and will finish the cut after my lunchtime yoga class. I suppose it was a non event as it was fully covered by the wood. I will reduce the spin speed and not push as hard in future.

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Glad you're OK, that's the main thing. Bits can be replaced, body parts aren't quite as easy. I admire people like you who can work and make very little mess. I'm just the opposite. Clean up in my garage doesn't take too long though, just sweep up and hit the rest with my leaf blower. My methods are crude by most woodworkers standards, but somehow I manage to get things cobbled together.

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Glad you're OK, that's the main thing. Bits can be replaced, body parts aren't quite as easy. I admire people like you who can work and make very little mess. I'm just the opposite. Clean up in my garage doesn't take too long though, just sweep up and hit the rest with my leaf blower. My methods are crude by most woodworkers standards, but somehow I manage to get things cobbled together.

Thank you and yes bits can be replaced the replacement cost $20.

The room I'm working in is to be my bedroom and I must control the dust as there are no doors to the rest of the house. The corner where the vacuum is in that pic is where the left channel LaScala will be eventually.

The router is the tool I always use first as it has the best dust control and makes the least noise. I wear ear plugs but the vacuum cleaner is louder than the router.

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speaking of cutting plywood/mdf with a router - i started looking into diy CNC machines. i don't have a need at the moment - it's more of a "build it, and they will come" type of thing. super cool stuff.

I do the build it and they will come system also. I have adapted the router to do a number of tasks by building some accessories.

This sled is lubricated with candle wax and holds the router in perfect alignment normally for cutting slots in side panels as can be in the plywood side panel under the jig in this picture. The jig was being made to hold panels inserted into the side panel slots while the glue was drying.

The sled came in handy to support the router to cut slots in old floor boards at angles to align with the slots in the side panel. Hope that makes sense...

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I made these router accessories to reduce the risk of those stuff ups mentioned earlier.

The router is 2100watt variable speed and will maintain speed regardless of loading so the starting and stopping torque is a handful let alone a slight variation in the wood.

This is a accessory I made to bevel the edge of panels so they fit easily into their slots when clamping the job together.

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very cool. was explaining the project to my wife last night, who is always a little dubious of my excited project ideas. she's been getting crafty over the last year or so and has a device called a Cricut - all the rage in crafting circles - which is basically a CNC device for cutting paper, stickers, etc. After that analogy, and explaining that its just a larger scale for wood and plastics, her eyes lit up and can't wait for me to build it. :)

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The wood is passed through the jig and the depth setting on the router controls the depth of the bevel.

The 45 degree tip can be seen in the router and the router sits in the centre of the jig with the tip dipping into the hole in the centre.

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very cool. was explaining the project to my wife last night, who is always a little dubious of my excited project ideas. she's been getting crafty over the last year or so and has a device called a Cricut - all the rage in crafting circles - which is basically a CNC device for cutting paper, stickers, etc. After that analogy, and explaining that its just a larger scale for wood and plastics, her eyes lit up and can't wait for me to build it. :)

Excellent analogy a win win outcome.

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2100 watts... that Makita is huge! That is also on 220v, correct?

Bruce

Yes it is huge. It's the RP2301FC and we have 240v. I'm not sure how many horsepower it is. The starting torque is significant and a wide stance with a firm grip with both hands is essential or you could break your wrist.

Many people said the router becomes your favourite tool and it is better to get a powerful one so there are no limitations.

It takes all size bits and has a very smooth deep plunge and LED lights shine down into the cut.

I can now rebuild the 100 year old doors on my terrace house using the router to cut traditional joints and remove sections of damaged timber like a dentist.

I can also build shutters to go outside the existing glass panel doors and incorporate acoustic treatments like a juicy sandwich into the design to reduce the traffic noise entering the rooms next to the Jubilee and LaScala.

The next step up was a DeWalt at 3 times the price.

I am very happy with this router and with hindsight would get exactly the same again.

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Cool! Still only pulls about 9 amps.

A 100 year old house... always lots to do. Friends of mine lived in an old stagecoach stop in Tunbridge, Tasmania. ALways busy...

Bruce

The house was a good price back in 94 and I new it had white ants when I bought it, they were a little overaggressive and for the front section of the house 4 rooms I have virtually replaced everything except the veranda doors and the verandas. By the time I'm finished the original sand stock convict bricks will be the only part that has not been replaced. I took all the timber that supported the original floors out of the walls and replaced that with bricks. All the floor joists and roofing beams are now steel so the little critters can break their teeth on that. The floors are cyprus pine as are the skirting as the ants don't like that. They even ate parts of the gyprock ceilings. I'm using plywood for the ceilings and to cover the plaster walls with "lead like sheeting" acoustic treatments attached to the back of the plywood. I'm installing 60g acoustic bats in between all the joists and one steel stud wall so yes it's never a dull moment. There is a light at the end of the tunnel now for this section and then there is more.

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its horrible. i cant differentiate between sub and mains when playing music. action movies wont stop vibrating everything in my house. movies in general sound far too dynamic and my system doesn't strain nearly enough to replicate sound. friends won't stop being impressed and jealous. and i didn't spend nearly enough money to get a sub of such horrible performance. :P

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