Homemade component riser feet/cones/spikes for ventilation

[tnr]

Youthman, thanks for your post for the sale of your isolation cones/spikes.  Makes me think outside the box, but rather than recreate the wheel, I would like to ask if anyone has made their own riser feet to increase the gap between components.  I was going to make a riser shelf out of wood and paint it black, but could probably get creative at the hardware store.  Cork may be another option, but prefer a small footprint to minimize blocking vent holes.  Dowel rods with felt or rubber on each end maybe?

 

These are pretty nice, but only increase the gap by about 1.5 inches and are kind of pricey.  Sorry, couldn't copy image directly here.

 

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-iso-4bk-black-isolation-cone-set-4-pcs--240-724

 

 

[moray james]

with spikes like this hard material will sound much better than soft and brass is soft. Case hardened tool steel like a Ramset threaded spike are very good and harder is even better. Ceramic cones are extremely hard and sound excellent. I would not recommend brass or aluminum. Best regards Moray James.

[joessportster]

try hockey pucks,  I used them before.  as they are rubber you could find a spike and put into them, use a whole saw to make a couple or more from 1 puck.  The pucks go on sale at the mortar stores time to time for a buck each

[joessportster]

attach something like this to the puck and you get isolation with vibration damping from the rubber

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-FOUR-16-GA-THREADED-REPLACEMENT-STAINLESS-STEEL-CONES-SPIKES-3MM-4MM-5MM-/181181496874?pt=Fashion_Jewelry&var=&hash=item2a2f423e2a

[NBPK402]

You can make your own spikes pretty cheaply.... Get some 1/4 20 threaded rod and cut it to the length you want, grind a point on one end, and then put some locktite on one end (about a 1/2" in and thread a couple of nuts on it to jam it until it dries.  I had at one time the brass ones (or at least similar) , and also some that were black plastic.

[tnr]

Thanks for the replies guys!   All great ideas.  I am not using them for speakers, so I don't know that spikes are necessary.  Was thinking of going the hockey puck route and wondering how clean a hole saw would cut the circle down smaller.  I would think it would be hard to get a clean (not all chunk'd up) smaller diameter circle, but Joe you obviously have.  I am thinking of gluing 2 of these together to get a 3" + the 1/2" factory feet and placing under each foot of my CD/DVD player.  Because I won't be using the amps in a Pioneer Elite AVR, I would think 3 1/2" would be adequate.  Any concerns with cork?  These are 2" round by 1.5" high. Going to Ace hardware and Menards to poke around and see what else may work.

 

[moray james]

You can make your own spikes pretty cheaply.... Get some 1/4 20 threaded rod and cut it to the length you want, grind a point on one end, and then put some locktite on one end (about a 1/2" in and thread a couple of nuts on it to jam it until it dries.  I had at one time the brass ones (or at least similar) , and also some that were black plastic.

I guess that you don't know what Ramset is? Take a look at the link see the threaded stud 5 parts down the page. This case hardened tool steel. These are designed to penetrate 1/4" thick steel girders. You don't have to do any work with these. Threaded rod is lowest quality steel in comparison to these. Best regards Moray James.

http://www.ramset.com/T3ss/a_electrical.html

the small plastic bits of hardware come off the spike. These are also perfect for loudspeakers use with a female 1/4-20 threaded insert.

Edited September 27, 2014 by moray james

[tnr]

Your right Moray James, I don't and I tried google to find out, but came up empty.  Where is the link?  I bought PVC joiners and  2" rubber stoppers.  Thought I would paint the PVC black.  The feet on the Oppo are just about the same size and have rubber on the bottom.  Gets me 3 1/2   2 1/2".  Acceptable?

 

Edited September 26, 2014 by tnr

[Axz Hout]

w

[cradeldorf]

Hope you don't have hard floors. because having a gap between the bottom of your cabinets and a hard floor sets up resonances that sound like crap.

[tigerwoodKhorns]

There are 2 different things being proposed here.  Isolatiopn vs. coupling and dampening. 

 

Spikes are supposed to "isolate" the equipment from vibrations.  Seems like pure BS to me.  Spikes started out as a way to couple speakers to the floor when you have carpet, and in that case they do work very well.  Then the Audiofools thought that spikes looked nifty and started using them for "isolating" equipment on wood, metal and glass shelves. 

 

Rubber feet will couple equipment to a shelf, and dampen vibrations to a certain degree.  They are very cheap and very effective if you don't want your equipment to slide around (especially on glass) and dampen a little (if that even does much of anything). 

 

One inexpensive system that works very well is the sprung feet and heavy chasis on a Technics SL1200.  You can pound your fist on a table next to the TT and it will do a good job of dampening the vibrations (and the tonearm will not skip unless you get crazy - I have never tried). 

[moray james]

There are 2 different things being proposed here.  Isolatiopn vs. coupling and dampening. 

 

Spikes are supposed to "isolate" the equipment from vibrations.  Seems like pure BS to me.  Spikes started out as a way to couple speakers to the floor when you have carpet, and in that case they do work very well.  Then the Audiofools thought that spikes looked nifty and started using them for "isolating" equipment on wood, metal and glass shelves. 

 

Rubber feet will couple equipment to a shelf, and dampen vibrations to a certain degree.  They are very cheap and very effective if you don't want your equipment to slide around (especially on glass) and dampen a little (if that even does much of anything). 

 

One inexpensive system that works very well is the sprung feet and heavy chasis on a Technics SL1200.  You can pound your fist on a table next to the TT and it will do a good job of dampening the vibrations (and the tonearm will not skip unless you get crazy - I have never tried).

You are right:

if people put spikes under a component or a loudspeaker the spikes hard couple the component or loudspeaker to what ever surface it is on. There is no decoupling here we are talking tremendous coupling at the point of intersection between the point of the spike and the base surface, thousands of pounds per square inch worth of pressure. If you insert a piece of compliant material like foam or soft rubber or even cardboard (anything that is compressible)then that compliance decouples the component or loudspeaker from the base surface it does this my absorbing vibrations because it is compliant and compressible. Hard coupling components to a platform or shelf can couple the two and act as a vibration conduit. So long as the platform and or stand can dissipate the energy things will generally sound better. Best regards Moray James.

[Heritage_Head]

What about a thick board that won't vibrate? 

[Heritage_Head]

I built this with a 18x18x3" 36lb slab. Weighs a ton.