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Forte - Forte II - question


expresso

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yeah he was - i have to leave 5 star feedback for sure -    i am looking into finding out the upgrade parts now - i know bobs for xover and tweeter etc,

 

but the mid is the one i am just finding out from another member here -   i have to give bob a call to see what he can do - about the xover to match the Mid

 

i want it to be correct and be done with it for next 30 years

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yes thats the one the other member told me about and to get them - -  now the question is -  does Bob carry them also ?  and if he dosnt - i would get the tweeter from him with a xover -

 

does Bob have to make my xover different if i use the above Mid - as compared to using his Mid ?   i am assuming others have done it and Bob makes the correct xover based on the Mid used and tweeter ?

 

and the mid would be  a simple plug and play type of installation ?   i done this before but just the tweeter on my KG 3.2 -  

 

another thing is this -  i cant handle the speaker - moving it around etc, -  i would like to leave it standing and do all the upgrades -  if doing it this way

 

do i have to remove the rear passive also -  or can i just remove the front drivers -   and work from the front for everything ?

 

i want to avoid having to lay it down one way or another so i dont damage anything  -    what is the best easiest way to do it ? 

 

thanks

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Expresso;

 

I made the titanium upgrade maybe 2-3 years ago.  Do yourself a favor; check with Klipsch as to the price of a complete K53TI driver.  At the time I made the modifications the price for a complete driver and diaphragm was only $5,00 more than just the diaphragm.  For an extra $10.00, I just swaped drivers and now I have originals with phenolic and the new K53TI in my squawker horns.  Also, please see attached from Bob Crites regarding Band Pass Roll off required with Titanium mids.  You will be quite pleased once you are there.

 

Best regards,

John

 

Per Bob Crites:

 

On the trace below, the red is an original K-53 phenolic diaphrgm and the green is the K-53TI titanium midrange diaphragm on the same 700 hz horn. We see slightly higher average output for the titanium than the phenolic. The phenolic output drops like a stone at 6khz where the tweeter takes over. That allows the crossover to be pretty simple since there is no reason to roll off the midrange. But, the titanium diaphragm keeps on going, in fact heading for a peak at around 7.3khz before it drops off. So, if the titanium diaphragm is used in place of the phenolic without a crossover mod, you would have the midrange and tweeter both at full output at the same time around 7khz.

Bob Crites

 

Attached Thumbnails
  • k53tiphen.jpg
Edited by John Chi-town
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Expresso;

 

I made the titanium upgrade maybe 2-3 years ago.  Do yourself a favor; check with Klipsch as to the price of a complete K53TI driver.  At the time I made the modifications the price for a complete driver and diaphragm was only $5,00 more than just the diaphragm.  For an extra $10.00, I just swaped drivers and now I have originals with phenolic and the new K53TI in my squawker horns.  Also, please see attached from Bob Crites regarding Band Pass Roll off required with Titanium mids.  You will be quite pleased once you are there.

 

Best regards,

John

 

Per Bob Crites:

 

On the trace below, the red is an original K-53 phenolic diaphrgm and the green is the K-53TI titanium midrange diaphragm on the same 700 hz horn. We see slightly higher average output for the titanium than the phenolic. The phenolic output drops like a stone at 6khz where the tweeter takes over. That allows the crossover to be pretty simple since there is no reason to roll off the midrange. But, the titanium diaphragm keeps on going, in fact heading for a peak at around 7.3khz before it drops off. So, if the titanium diaphragm is used in place of the phenolic without a crossover mod, you would have the midrange and tweeter both at full output at the same time around 7khz.

Bob Crites

 

Attached Thumbnails
  • k53tiphen.jpg

 

ok thanks for that info -  i will try giving them a call tomorrow -  now when i call Klipsch -  all i have to ask for is a Complete K53TI driver ?  thats it -  and they would just give me a price and i can decide then -  would there be any reason for them not to give me this info or not sell it to me for some reason ?   if they ask me what speaker i have -  and i say forte II -  will they still sell it to me or tell me some story that its not for that speaker etc, -  i just want to be ready to answer

 

if i manage to get this unit complete - i wont have to replace anything - just unscrew one unit and screw this one in and thats it ?      is there anything i should say if they question me about this part and the Forte II - 

 

thanks  -   i see the price for the SS Mid on Simply speakers is about $80 each -  

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You can do all of the upgrades with the speaker in the upright position.  You can change the tweeter and mid diaphragms without removing the passive radiator, if memory serves me correctly.  Bob DOES NOT sell the titanium diaphragm.  You can order through Klipsch.  Per post of mine above, Bob can add the mid range roll off to your exiisting cross overs with a cap refresh, or build into his replacement crossovers.

 

I think the only reason I pulled my passive radiators was to put in Bob's replacement crossovers which do not fit through the terminal cup.  If you do need to remove, very easy, just take out dozen or so screws and slowly remove.

 

Best regards,

John

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When I ordered never asked me why.  Yes ask for a price on two complete drivers, and just the diaphragms themselves.  When I bought diaphragms were $80.00 each and NEW DRIVERS and diaphragms were $85.00 each.  A real no brainer.

 

Take a look at Bob Crites website, he has step by step instructions with photo's for replacing the tweeter diaphragms.  Squawker procedure is the same.  However if you get new drivers there will be one or two less steps since you will only be swaping the driver to horn, and terminal connections.

 

Best regards,

John

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You can do all of the upgrades with the speaker in the upright position.  You can change the tweeter and mid diaphragms without removing the passive radiator, if memory serves me correctly.  Bob DOES NOT sell the titanium diaphragm.  You can order through Klipsch.  Per post of mine above, Bob can add the mid range roll off to your exiisting cross overs with a cap refresh, or build into his replacement crossovers.

 

I think the only reason I pulled my passive radiators was to put in Bob's replacement crossovers which do not fit through the terminal cup.  If you do need to remove, very easy, just take out dozen or so screws and slowly remove.

 

Best regards,

John

Ok - dont you have to remove the horns all the way out of the cabinet ?   i was thinking i would remove all the front drivers and remove the posts in the rear - leaving just the passive alone -  i would just have Bob make me his own brand new set and not bother with sending him anything -  but i would have to let him know i have the SS Mid unit so he can make my new crossover with that in mind -   and i get his tweeters -    i believe i can add his crossover in from the front driver  12 inch opening and connect it all from the front after i connect the  posts in the rear first and then finish from the front -     and i would like the complete driver  if price is not much more -  would make it easier for me -  i would also change out the gaskets in the horn while i am there - might as well -  i seen them on Bobs site -    i want to do this one and do it right and start to enjoy :)     i decided now to forget about listening to them first -  i might as well just do it

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Do yourself a favor and listen to them a month or so before you start the mods.

oh -- ok -  any reason other than just to hear them first with out the upgrade -- my friend who has a pair and did the upgrade from Bobs about 4 years ago -  he loved it before and even more after -  i may hook them up before - i just hate to move things around after i put it in its place - i like to leave it alone as long as i can unless i have to move them for something -

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A couple reasons.  First and foremost you might like them as they are.  Secondly, if you mod them now, you have no basis of comparison.  Normally you mod something to improve performance.  You really need a base line to start.  You might change something that you don't want to change but won't know it until you spend some time with them.

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A couple reasons.  First and foremost you might like them as they are.  Secondly, if you mod them now, you have no basis of comparison.  Normally you mod something to improve performance.  You really need a base line to start.  You might change something that you don't want to change but won't know it until you spend some time with them.

i agree -   i am going on the fact from almost every user who has them and done it -  i havnt heard anyone say they went back or didnt like it -  but you  are right - thats the correct way to do things in general -  and i am going ahead of myself - i most likely will listen to them for a short time  -   i guess theres no rush - i have them now - i wont wait long but a short time is a good idea -  i am sure i would like them as they are -  i have with all the others -  but then i wont know how much better they can be - thats the reason i will end up doing it anyway later on -   feels good to know you have all new parts etc, and should be good for next 20 years if not more -

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In my opinion the new crossovers and tweeters are a must and a very nice improvement. I personally did not like the titanium mid in my Chorus II's. They were definitely "louder" than the originals which seemed to bring out more detail at lower volumes. The problem was they seemed to get progressively louder at an advanced rate over the other drivers as the volume increased to the point where (at really high volumes) all you could hear was this blaring mid horn that just overpowered everything else.

 

 Now the Forte II uses the same mid as the Chorus II but it has been dialed back already through the crossover so I would suspect that it would be a better match for the titanium upgrade though I've never tried it myself.

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In my opinion the new crossovers and tweeters are a must and a very nice improvement. I personally did not like the titanium mid in my Chorus II's. They were definitely "louder" than the originals which seemed to bring out more detail at lower volumes. The problem was they seemed to get progressively louder at an advanced rate over the other drivers as the volume increased to the point where (at really high volumes) all you could hear was this blaring mid horn that just overpowered everything else.

 

 Now the Forte II uses the same mid as the Chorus II but it has been dialed back already through the crossover so I would suspect that it would be a better match for the titanium upgrade though I've never tried it myself.

yes thats a good point to know -   i do play my music loud at times - but i am not far from my system so maybe even at my loudest - it may not be as loud as others who have a home or more privacy to play loud would get - 

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 Any reason you don't want to remove the passive? I think it would be a lot easier to leave the 12" active in place as it has a magnet attached and is some what heavy and kind of awkward to remove and install while the cabinet is standing up. The passive is only like a pound or two, very light in comparison to the active driver and provides a much larger opening to work inside the cabinet. You will have to remove both horns for the diaphragm replacement and the terminal cup to remove the old crossover. I would put everything back together and test the speakers at low volume before re-installing the passive to make sure all drivers are working. In fact I would test each mid horn and tweeter before re-installing them in the cabinets to make sure they work as there is a lot of screws in the mid horns alone, it will save you a lot of time and trouble in the end.

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 Any reason you don't want to remove the passive? I think it would be a lot easier to leave the 12" active in place as it has a magnet attached and is some what heavy and kind of awkward to remove and install while the cabinet is standing up. The passive is only like a pound or two, very light in comparison to the active driver and provides a much larger opening to work inside the cabinet. You will have to remove both horns for the diaphragm replacement and the terminal cup to remove the old crossover. I would put everything back together and test the speakers at low volume before re-installing the passive to make sure all drivers are working. In fact I would test each mid horn and tweeter before re-installing them in the cabinets to make sure they work as there is a lot of screws in the mid horns alone, it will save you a lot of time and trouble in the end.

thats a good idea - i think i will do it that way -  i didnt think about that -  all i have to remove is the passive and posts in the rear and both horns -  i should have enough room to do everything that way -   someone can hold the mid horn while unscrewing the front and pull it out -  - 

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