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F/S MWM DIY bins $400 for 4


kg4guy

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Hey..........I remember those.  :)   But watch out, things grow from these little ones into bigger ones.  Don't let this happen to you!!

 

By the way........Jub networks don't work on MWMs.  :)    You need these networks..........

 

 

 

 

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Yes, when MWM's were in place everything in the room looked smaller. Unfortunately, my 52" flat screen now looks like a 36"... I really didn't realize how big they were until I got them home.

I hope you don't mind

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But watch out, things grow from these little ones into bigger ones. Don't let this happen to you!!

 

Mark is one of the reasons we went in this direction, we still have those mwm singles, I keep them for when I need music in the yard, the whole yard. :o  :lol:

 

We got our first 2 bins from Mark, ( Thank You) I copied the dimensions of those to make the ones we use inside. 

 

Looking at Marks pictures it had grown a lot to say the least,  looking at the pics it makes me feel a little more normal, a little. :o  :P Bet it sounds great

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MWMs are some terrific bass cabinets.  I surely love mine.  :)   I fell lucky to have this big Klipsch stuff.

 

It would be great if some day I wound up with some Jub cabinets so I could enjoy those too.  But if it never happens it'll be OK.  Not suffering over here.  :D

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After looking at my pictures posted above I realized that the swamping resistor on the es5800 board was in the wrong position.  It is on the output of the tweeter attenuator transformer instead of the input to it.  I came home and inpsected the networks and found I had corrected that at some point and no change was necessary.  It is just an old picture.  Sorry for that.  :huh:  The swamping resistor for the mid range driver is in the correct position on the main board in the picture I posted.  :)

 

I use an active crossover on my MCM system today but did use those networks at one point when the system was 3-way.  Now it is 5-way and requires something more.  But I still use those networks today on a different pair of speakers with dual K33 style woofers on each side.

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  • 4 months later...

Here's an update for all of you MWM fanatics!

 

After setting them up in April, I went active 2-way using a DX38 with K-69A's on the 402's. That worked out okay... But, it was missing a lot. The next step was to set it up with a Yamaha SP2060 and Faital pro hf10ak drivers on QSC waveguides as tweeters. That worked out okay too... But, it was still missing something... The next major change was to use K-1133 drivers on the 402's. This last change did the trick... So, it all worked really well!

 

Most recently I've gone active with my two Belle center channel set-up. Thanks to Chris A for posting all the settings using the DX38. 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/123370-settings-for-tri-amping-an-82-belle-with-an-active-digital-crossover/page-4

 

Going active on the center made Blu-Ray's simply amazing. For high quality Blu-Ray CD's the system turned into a "goose bump" machine! It literally raises the hairs on the back my neck, it's getting close to "live", with the few Blu-Ray recordings that I've listened to. This one's really good: Gordon Goodwin's Big Phat Band Swingin' For The Fences.

 

I'm also using very inexpensive amps: Crown XLS 100, Carvin DCM600 and a Hafler Pro 1200. Only the Crown was purchased new. For MWM the Crown works great? And for $159.00 on Amazon!!!

 

For now, I've disconnected the bottom MWM. It just didn't make a whole lot of difference in numerous A to B tests. Using both bins shined when I did a test where I opened up both patio doors and took a walk 100 yards down into the ravine behind the house. It was amazingly clear... But, in the room it just isn't needed.  

 

My next update will be to get another Yamaha SP2060. I suppose it could be considered 4 way with the addition of two horn sub woofers. Anyone have any ideas on what subs would be the best match for my current stack? I'd also like to use the subs with a planned future build of 2 Q-Pies.

 

 

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Here's an update for all of you MWM fanatics!

 

After setting them up in April, I went active 2-way using a DX38 with K-69A's on the 402's. That worked out okay... But, it was missing a lot. The next step was to set it up with a Yamaha SP2060 and Faital pro hf10ak drivers on QSC waveguides as tweeters. That worked out okay too... But, it was still missing something... The next major change was to use K-1133 drivers on the 402's. This last change did the trick... So, it all worked really well!

 

Most recently I've gone active with my two Belle center channel set-up. Thanks to Chris A for posting all the settings using the DX38. 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/123370-settings-for-tri-amping-an-82-belle-with-an-active-digital-crossover/page-4

 

Going active on the center made Blu-Ray's simply amazing. For high quality Blu-Ray CD's the system turned into a "goose bump" machine! It literally raises the hairs on the back my neck, it's getting close to "live", with the few Blu-Ray recordings that I've listened to. This one's really good: Gordon Goodwin's Big Phat Band Swingin' For The Fences.

 

I'm also using very inexpensive amps: Crown XLS 100, Carvin DCM600 and a Hafler Pro 1200. Only the Crown was purchased new. For MWM the Crown works great? And for $159.00 on Amazon!!!

 

For now, I've disconnected the bottom MWM. It just didn't make a whole lot of difference in numerous A to B tests. Using both bins shined when I did a test where I opened up both patio doors and took a walk 100 yards down into the ravine behind the house. It was amazingly clear... But, in the room it just isn't needed.  

 

My next update will be to get another Yamaha SP2060. I suppose it could be considered 4 way with the addition of two horn sub woofers. Anyone have any ideas on what subs would be the best match for my current stack? I'd also like to use the subs with a planned future build of 2 Q-Pies.

Gjallarhorn Subwoofer !!

Gjallarhorn V2 tapped horn Subwoofer

Offered up is my recently completed Gjallarhorn V2 tapped horn subwoofer. Selling due to a pending move into a smaller space. otherwise there's no way I'd part with it.

If you Google, most builds you will find are ver1. V2 is a refinement, with a better fold pattern, resulting in far fewer 180 degree turns.

If you are in search of the ultimate subwoofer, this one is it. Capable of

90dB at 10Hz

105dB at 12Hz

130dB from 14Hz to 120Hz.

in short, there is nothing available anywhere near this price point that would even compare to it.

The downside: it is huge. Really large. 45"x45"x24". and about 400 lbs with driver. you will need to bring a van or a truck.

The driver is an 18" Mach5 UXL-18. The only 2 drivers strong enough to work in this sub are the UXL, and the mighty LMS ultra5400 , which is a $1500 driver. This says a ton about the quality of the UXL.

http://www.istonline.ca/mach5_uxl_18.html

My build is here:

Soundemons Gjallarhorn 2 build thread

I was meticulous with the build, took my time and made sure everything was perfect.

I would sell the horn without the driver if you wanted. (not sure why anyone would want this but it is an option)$600 for the horn by itself. (the premium Baltic birch and hardware for the build cost over to $600)

with the driver the cost will be $1100.

I'm powering with a Behringer EP2500 with quiet fan mod. I'll include this for an extra $250 bringing the total to $1350.

My Rane PE17 5 band analogue PEQ is also available, which is an amazing tool to correct any sub to your room, and also has a 10Hz filter which is advised to protect the sub from over excursion below 12Hz.

Altogether enclosure+driver+amp+EQ $1450

Pickup in the Toronto Area only.

.

I think we're the demons.

.

soundemon is offline

Quote

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Put everything together "dry fit" to make sure all the cuts were correct, and everything lined up, I hadn't missed anything.

everything looks great, so I'll strip it all down, complete the access hatches and the hole to mount the driver, and start laying down PL!

Roger... :)

Edited by twistedcrankcammer
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I've looked at the Gjallarhorn and many others. Unfortunately, I don't have the space. With the capability of 130dB from 14Hz to 120Hz it could probably simulate an earthquake! I'm thinking a couple of Danley Spuds would do the trick or something similar. 

 

I've also installed a Kramer VS-4X to totally bypass the HT preamp for the main LR front stacks.  XLR cables go directly from either OPPO 95 / 105 > VS-4X > Yamaha SP2060 > amps> 3-way stack or push the button and the 3-way stacks are incorporated into the HT system via HDMI. Pretty neat for A/B comparison listening tests. Many recordings seem to sound better without the HT preamp intervention.

 

I also experimented with A/B listening comparisons using the BMS 4592ND-MID, K-69A and the K-1133 in the K-402's. They all sound great, but in my opinion the K-1133 is the overall best of the three, The BMS is a close second,

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