Paducah Home Theater Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 I hate to say it but I did something similar and had ended up feeding the sub amp a full range signal. I would crank it up and the bass just barely trickled out, and my other speakers were overpowering the other sounds, so I couldn't tell what was going on. I'd experiment and make sure you didn't do something similar. At this point you don't know if it is a signal issue or an output issue. If you have access to a multimeter you can measure the subs to make sure you are getting about a 2 ohm load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Stereo 2 ohm will give 1500 watts per ch. A 4 ohm load is easier on the amp. I never used the I Nuke 3000 DSP amp in a 2 ohm loads. The key is making sure the Neutrik speakon connection is wired correctly. I have a Nuke 3000 DSP running my shakers in stereo and if I switch ch A and B speakon without re-wiring, I get minimal output. For now, I would just try bridge mod to get things working and then you can work on wiring from everything i've read, the speakon connection is just red into +1 and black into -1. i have the 4 pole version. don't think even i can screw that up. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EKMGO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) Ch A is +1, -1 Ch B is +2, -2 Bridge is +1, +2 You need to use the Ch A and Ch B for stereo and the set the correct ohm load for the I Nuke 3000 DSP amp. All this is under tab 1(Configuration). To use bridge mode you will have to connect sub 1 and sub 2 to have a series or parallel connection. Let Auddysee EQ the subs as one. This works very good for most people. Edited April 13, 2015 by derrickdj1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Ch A is +1, -1 Ch B is +2, -2 Bridge is +1, +2 You need to use the Ch A and Ch B for stereo and the set the correct ohm load for the I Nuke 3000 DSP amp. All this is under tab 1(Configuration). To use bridge mode you will have to connect sub 1 and sub 2 to have a series or parallel connection. Let Auddysee EQ the subs as one. This works very good for most people. A couple of things. First, I thought you only use +2, -2 if you are running a 4 pole connections from a single amp output to two different speakers. I was under the impression that if you ran 2 lines from separate amp outputs they would both use +1, -1. At any rate, I'm happy to try running it with +2, -2 but I'm a bit skeptical since both channels are currently very quiet. Second, if I run bridge mode, that means another set of holes in the wall going from one sub to the other. If rather avoid that if I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Ch A is +1, -1 Ch B is +2, -2 Bridge is +1, +2 You need to use the Ch A and Ch B for stereo and the set the correct ohm load for the I Nuke 3000 DSP amp. All this is under tab 1(Configuration). To use bridge mode you will have to connect sub 1 and sub 2 to have a series or parallel connection. Let Auddysee EQ the subs as one. This works very good for most people. Also, what is the correct ohm load to set? I've got 2 dual 4 ohm drivers. What does that add up to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) Also, what is the correct ohm load to set? I've got 2 dual 4 ohm drivers. What does that add up to? More like whats it subtract down to. The way you have it is with the voice coils in parallel, which makes 2-ohms per driver, stereo. Edited April 13, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Thanks. Starting to panic a little since I don't really have the time or knowledge to figure all of this out. I appreciate the help you guys have provided. I guess I'll try a couple different configurations after class tonight and then tomorrow. Not sure how I'll be able to tell if the amp is bad or not. BTW, someone above mentioned that it could be sending all the signal to the sub and that I couldn't tell. I really don't think that's it because with the sub volume on the AVR all the way up and both channels on the amp all the way up it was still barely audible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) Thanks. Starting to panic a little since I don't really have the time or knowledge to figure all of this out. I appreciate the help you guys have proided. I guess I'll try a couple different configurations after class tonight and then tomorrow. Not sure how I'll be able to tell if the amp is bad or not. Just try to isolate and rule out stuff when debugging electrical stuff, make sure each link is working properly. Generally speaking sometimes in these situations people get a big mess in front of them and just start changing stuff, hoping it eventually starts working. Well, if you don't know if its the signal, or the software, or the output, or the wiring, or the amp itself, or a bad woofer, it gets real frustrating real quick. I had college classes on debugging electronics in engineering school plus I debug software for a living, if you can't isolate and rule stuff out it will always seem to be a big fat mess. Edited April 13, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 ok guys. here's where i'm at... i tested the setup by wiring the speakers up to the amp directly in case my terminals were somehow jacked up. no difference. i double-checked the speakon connections and changed one of them to +2/-2. no difference. i tested different rca cables, including the one i currently use on my existing sub. no difference. i tried various settings other than stereo. no difference. i plugged my old hsu 12" sub in and turned it up and tested the same song through the receiver vs the 2 18"s at full volume and the 12" was massively louder. the only time i really got them pounding was when the avr volume was really high. even then, it was less than overwhelming. could it be the amp? kinda pissed. the only thing loud about the amp is the fan...which is ridiculously loud. are there other options in the $300 range? should i send this one back and get a different one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 oh...and the speakers hiss. it happens when the amp is both plugged into and unplugged from the avr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Guess what showed up today! these woofers will rattle the fillings out of your teeth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 well....not so far. i'm going to return the inuke and if a different one will have better results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 oh...and the speakers hiss. it happens when the amp is both plugged into and unplugged from the avr. Probably because you have the gain maxed out. It should be more like halfway up or a little more. Once you get past 2/3 of the way they will hiss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 At halfway I literally can't even hear them. I have another Inuke OTW super glad I got it from Amazon. I love their shipping and return policies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Now that I think about it, I actually had a very similar problem with a QSC RMX amp. Couldn't even get it working right even with a CleanBox Pro. Ended up sending it back. They tested it once it arrived, said it was perfectly fine. I don't know what it means. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 I know it's too late now but are you sure you didn't have the rear switch in high pass? Also the stereo, mono, bridge switch was in stereo, right? I've over looked things like this before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 (edited) I know it's too late now but are you sure you didn't have the rear switch in high pass? Also the stereo, mono, bridge switch was in stereo, right? I've over looked things like this before. yep. i had it in stereo mode. and not sure about the high pass question. here's a screenshot of that menu ... Edited April 14, 2015 by dewthedru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 What about just taking a line signal straight from the receiver/source into the amp and test output? Did you try that? You don't have another amp to just drop in place do you? Definitely sounds amp related in what I've read in the posts. And I'm assuming they are in phase. Many, many times through my car audio years did I see my installers wire DVC woofers up wrong and not have any output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 Test output using a voltage meter? And when you say "in phase" do you mean positive and negative lined up correctly? I'm certain I have the Speakon connectors done with +1/-1 and the positive going to positive speaker connection, and then to one of the coil positives, and then jumped to the other cool positive. Same with the negative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Using RCA cables from the Denon (?) receiver's sub out straight into the amplifier and then hooked straight to the speakers. Yes, meaning wired correctly. Being that they're dual 4-ohm coils and you're wiring them in parallel for a 2-ohm load per woofer, that's pretty cut and dried for simplicity. What about with one woofer hooked up to the amp at a time? Does the amp have an inverting switch of any kind? No other amp you can try them with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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