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Finally....My Stonehenge Build Thread!


dewthedru

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I don't have another amo to try. The new one will be here shortly though.

There are no physical switches in the unit. Just the menus I've posted. It does have a way to browse through the same menu using buttons on the amp itself.

I'm a bit confused as to the first part of your question. That is currently how I have it set up already. AVR to RCA to Amp to speaker wire to sub

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behringer inuke options

 

Does the peak limiter have to be set to '2 ohms' even though you are not using it? Just curious, I have never used one of these fancy menu driven amps. And when you are feeding signal into the amp aren't those meters on the right supposed to tell you something? I mean they are real time meters correct? And you do have the capability of looking at them with the amp operating correct?

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I know it's too late now but are you sure you didn't have the rear switch in high pass? Also the stereo, mono, bridge switch was in stereo, right?

I've over looked things like this before.

yep.  i had it in stereo mode.  and not sure about the high pass question.  here's a screenshot of that menu ...

My bad. I thought that amp had physical switches on the back.

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But the lights that light up when you're pumping a bunch of juice through rarely lights up unless you have the AVR way, WAY up.

 

Sounds like the signal is not hot enough.

I had thought about that but he plugged in a 12" sub with a plate amp and it worked great. iNukes should work fine with that same level of input especially if the gain is all the way up. Perhaps just in case, go in and turn off Audessey and make sure it didn't kill the sub outputs drastically.

Edited by MetropolisLakeOutfitters
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But the lights that light up when you're pumping a bunch of juice through rarely lights up unless you have the AVR way, WAY up.

 

Sounds like the signal is not hot enough.

 

I had thought about that but he plugged in a 12" sub with a plate amp and it worked great. iNukes should work fine with that same level of input especially if the gain is all the way up. Perhaps just in case, go in and turn off Audessey and make sure it didn't kill the sub outputs drastically.

 

 

I'll defer to your expertise as I've never personally used this particular amp.  Any other pro amp with these symptoms is normally fixed with a line converter.  Do you know what voltage his pre puts out and what voltage the amp needs to push it to full output?

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But the lights that light up when you're pumping a bunch of juice through rarely lights up unless you have the AVR way, WAY up.

 

Sounds like the signal is not hot enough.

 

Yep it sounds like there is not enough 'gain reach' interfacing the unbalanced output of the AVR to the balanced input of the iNuke. I have heard of this but have never experienced not being able to adjust for it with input gain and output level controls. Let's see if the replacement iNuke does the same thing.

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I have heard of this but have never experienced not being able to adjust for it with input gain and output level controls. 

 

It's common when interfacing some pro gear with consumer level gear.  I keep a spare Cleanbox around for subwoofer projects just for that very reason.

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I know it's too late now but are you sure you didn't have the rear switch in high pass? Also the stereo, mono, bridge switch was in stereo, right?

I've over looked things like this before.

yep.  i had it in stereo mode.  and not sure about the high pass question.  here's a screenshot of that menu ...

 

 

 Shouldn't the low pass be on? Maybe high pass also since this is a ported sub? i don't think this is the main issue but shouldn't these filters be on?

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I know it's too late now but are you sure you didn't have the rear switch in high pass? Also the stereo, mono, bridge switch was in stereo, right?

I've over looked things like this before.

yep.  i had it in stereo mode.  and not sure about the high pass question.  here's a screenshot of that menu ...

 

 

 Shouldn't the low pass be on? Maybe high pass also since this is a ported sub? i don't think this is the main issue but shouldn't these filters be on?

 

 

I don't have mine on.  Should be unnecessary if the receiver does its job correctly.  Right now I wouldn't dink with it anyway, you're just introducing more variables.  

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I'll defer to your expertise as I've never personally used this particular amp.  Any other pro amp with these symptoms is normally fixed with a line converter.  Do you know what voltage his pre puts out and what voltage the amp needs to push it to full output?

 

 

I wouldn't say expertise but I do know that my gain knobs on the 6000 is about at the 1 o'clock position if setting it to be flat, and Audessey still kills the output a little.  I'm using the same rca adapters as him, no line converter.  Others have also confirmed that iNukes don't usually need a line converter like that but something may be wrong.  It wouldn't hurt to try though, they're pretty cheap and you can return them for free.  I had one but sent it back because it was totally unnecessary.  

 

I am curious though, does this receiver have two sub outputs or just one?  

Edited by MetropolisLakeOutfitters
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There a a lot of I Nuke users and some have had issues with input sensitivity but, the majority form reading on avs have mixed pro and consumer gear with no problem.  I have a .1 avr and have split the signal to 5 I Nukes without problems.  Since this is a vented sub, I would set the HPF at 20 Hz with a 24 db LR slope.  The LPF should be taken care of by the avr.  One thing to check on the replacement amp is to test the amp with the GUI on and look at the input / output meters.  They should match fairly close.  This will give you an ideal of the signal strength.

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