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Chorus II cab rehab advice needed


dbomberger

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TV last night wasn't doing much for me, so I pulled up Craigslist for about the 10th time yesterday.  Just 43 minutes earlier someone had posted a pair of Black Chorus II's for a reasonable price.  After a few minutes of texting we agreed on a deal and I picked them up this morning and have them humming along in my office until I can work up the courage to take them home.

 

Grilles are perfect as are the badges. Frankly the bases are chipped pretty badly.  The paint has just been rubbed thin and off in a few spots, but no dings or gouges.  I'm guessing it would be pretty simple to get someone to rebuild the bases new and since I need some paint, I can make it all match pretty well.  I had been waiting for Walnut versions, but couldn't pass these up.

 

Any advice on this line of thinking, any source for someone who might build bases, and the specific paint Klipsch used on these.  I also have a similar vintage THX certified Klipsch home theatre whose pieces could use the same paint.  Seems like I read a post where someone posted the specific paint, but have been unable to locate it so far.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

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If the bases are structurally sound, but are chipped with no cracks, etc....since you are going to paint anyway, why not just use wood filler, then sand, then paint?  New bases would seem to be a heck of a lot more costly to do than just a simple repair.....

 

Looks like John Chi-Town and I were typing at the same time.....

Edited by jimjimbo
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here is a photo of a Harbeth M40 on a pair of Skylan four post stands. If you simply remove the very dated looking riser on your Chorus ll and use a set of correct height four post stands you will have a fine looking loudspeaker and they will sound better when they are at the right height which is when the centre of the mid horn is at your seated ear level, that is typically at 39 - 41 inches up off the floor but this of course depends upon your height and your seating. Best regards Moray James.

post-44375-0-96200000-1444668597_thumb.j

Edited by moray james
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here is a photo of a Harbeth M40 on a pair of Skylan four post stands. If you simply remove the very dated looking riser on your Chorus ll and use a set of correct height four post stands you will have a fine looking loudspeaker and they will sound better when they are at the right height which is when the centre of the mid horn is at your seated ear level, that is typically at 39 - 41 inches up off the floor but this of course depends upon your height and your seating. Best regards Moray James.

 

Dang, that's a great idea!

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Jim:I have not owned any Chorus so I cannot comment directly to your question. I have had a pair of Forte and a pair of Forte ll both placed upon Skylan four post stands I think they were about 14 inches tall not counting the spikes. The Forte (both versions) are the lowest tuned Heritage loudspeakers there are and the bass is solid and clean I have no complaints in that department. My modified H3 (two sets) live up on 22" tall four post Skylan stands and they make lots of bass more than stock ones for sure. Well you get what you pay for and I can say that anyone who thinks that they are out of line price wise has A) not been looking at the current market and B) never attempted to build such quality stands themselves. That said I give the Skylans as a reference and also because the aesthetics are so good. Anyone who wants to attempt to build their own stands would do well to follow the form of the Skylan stand and you will have a great looking stand. For those whowonder there is no contest between the Skylan stand and a metal stand none at all. Metal is a very poor choice for a loudspeaker stand, it is rigid but it rings and it offers little to no loss. The Skylan stand is a combination of plastic resin colums and MDF plates stand which is mass loadable. Noel Nolan of Skylan also has interface devices which go between the loudspeaker and the stand which further eat up unwanted vibrations. The total package is world class. I have been using Skylan products for decades. I talked Noel into building custom stands for the Heresy several years ago but alas the response from the forum was less than enthusiastic. Best regards Moray James.

post-44375-0-58000000-1444671478_thumb.j

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here is a photo of a Harbeth M40 on a pair of Skylan four post stands. If you simply remove the very dated looking riser on your Chorus ll and use a set of correct height four post stands you will have a fine looking loudspeaker and they will sound better when they are at the right height which is when the centre of the mid horn is at your seated ear level, that is typically at 39 - 41 inches up off the floor but this of course depends upon your height and your seating. Best regards Moray James.

 

Thanks a lot, that is a very innovative idea which holds a lot of promise in my mind. I will definitely consider that.

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While I like and will consider the Skylan idea-though my heart leans toward getting these back as close to original as possible.  The other factor which my friends in the Philanthropic Foundation world call "proportionality", which is to say, the stands would cost what I paid for the Chorus II's.  

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While I like and will consider the Skylan idea-though my heart leans toward getting these back as close to original as possible.  The other factor which my friends in the Philanthropic Foundation world call "proportionality", which is to say, the stands would cost what I paid for the Chorus II's.

Well you will do what you want. But just so you know what you are missing get something anything to raise your speakers up so the centre of the mid horn in at your seated ear level play with the toe in to adjust for this new location and angle of the horns and then you can compare what you hear to listening to the speakers sitting down on the floor on the factory riser. Factory is not always better. This make a big difference especially with speakers like the CF3/4 where the mid horn is so very low it fires at your knees and that is just poor design. The KG configuration with the horn up above the two vertically stacked woofers is a much better cabinet option because it get the mid horn up to your seated ear level where it should be. Tilting mid and tweeter either up or down skews the sound stage and image it is not natural and your brain can figure out whats happening. Have fun experimenting and enjoy your speakers. Best regards Moray James. .

Edited by moray james
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While I like and will consider the Skylan idea-though my heart leans toward getting these back as close to original as possible.  The other factor which my friends in the Philanthropic Foundation world call "proportionality", which is to say, the stands would cost what I paid for the Chorus II's.

Well you will do what you want. But just so you know what you are missing get something anything to raise your speakers up so the centre of the mid horn in at your seated ear level play with the toe in to adjust for this new location and angle of the horns and then you can compare what you hear to listening to the speakers sitting down on the floor on the factory riser. Factory is not always better. This make a big difference especially with speakers like the CF3/4 where the mid horn is so very low it fires at your knees and that is just poor design. The KG configuration with the horn up above the two vertically stacked woofers is a much better cabinet option because it get the mid horn up to your seated ear level where it should be. Tilting mid and tweeter either up or down skews the sound stage and image it is not natural and your brain can figure out whats happening. Have fun experimenting and enjoy your speakers. Best regards Moray James. .

 

I will do that for sure.  Much appreciated!

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OK, so then reading and taking into consideration both Carl's and Moray's posts, although mid's would be improved, bass would be diminished....do I read that correctly?

 

And, not just asking to stick my nose in, but I do have a pair of Chorus II's that I'm always looking to take to another level....

Edited by jimjimbo
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To be honest..... I don't think I would ever think about elevating Chorus II's....... too heavy..... As far as finish is concerned.... Take your time.... First pull all the drivers/crossovers..... Go to Dollar General.... Get some poster board to cover up motorboard and back.... Check out my thread Called... I really can't decide.... In technical modification...... The Forte's I did as a summer project were in bad shape.... The risers were chipped.... I ended up taking a riser after filling and sanding turning it so the chip was in the back... Take your time

Edited by oldred
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  • 4 weeks later...

To be honest..... I don't think I would ever think about elevating Chorus II's....... too heavy..... As far as finish is concerned.... Take your time.... First pull all the drivers/crossovers..... Go to Dollar General.... Get some poster board to cover up motorboard and back.... Check out my thread Called... I really can't decide.... In technical modification...... The Forte's I did as a summer project were in bad shape.... The risers were chipped.... I ended up taking a riser after filling and sanding turning it so the chip was in the back... Take your time

 

Wow, I did track down that thread and am impressed, amazed and nearly convinced to give that a go.  Thanks for sharing.  Much appreciated.

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OK, so then reading and taking into consideration both Carl's and Moray's posts, although mid's would be improved, bass would be diminished....do I read that correctly?

 

Yes

 

And, not just asking to stick my nose in, but I do have a pair of Chorus II's that I'm always looking to take to another level....

 

Worst pun ever

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