Shaun K Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Last week I picked up a pair of Heresy speakers from the original owner. He traveled around the midwest with them in the 80's and 90's, using them for live acoustic music. They sound very good but have a decent amount of wear from being lugged around. I'm looking for recommendations on repairing the chips and sanding/refinishing. Should I even bother trying to fill in the chips and splinters, or should I just sand everything with 80/220 and then put on some clear/poly? Initial pics are here; I'll put up some more when I take the backs off and remove the drivers later on today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzydog Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 6 minutes ago, Shaun K said: Should I even bother trying to fill in the chips and splinters, or should I just sand everything with 80/220 and then put on some clear/poly? How do you want them to look when you're done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 12, 2016 Author Share Posted October 12, 2016 7 minutes ago, FuzzyDog said: How do you want them to look when you're done? As far as the color, I'd like to preserve the raw birch look since they don't seem to be as common as other finishes (I could be wrong here though, that's just my observation). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 if you sand them you will remove 35yrs of petina. they will completely turn white and it will take that many more years to get that beatiful yellow color back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Better pictures of the tops and sides would help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 12, 2016 Author Share Posted October 12, 2016 Just now, jimjimbo said: Better pictures of the tops and sides would help Yeah, plan to get those tonight. Right now I'm gluing my KLF-10's so I can take pics and list them for sale :). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twk123 Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 I would go with the natural tone Minwax stain to highlight the wood grain and patina. The wood is old and dry so use some pre-stain first and it will come out much more evenly. Once you have stained the cabs, let them dry our for about 48 hrs then put on a few coats of your choice of clear coat. I have been working with Minwax Polycrylic lately and like the results, simply light sand with 300 grit between each coat and dont over-brush it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 12, 2016 Author Share Posted October 12, 2016 18 minutes ago, twk123 said: I would go with the natural tone Minwax stain to highlight the wood grain and patina. Let it dry our for about 48 hrs then put on a few coats of your choice of clear coat. I have been working with Minwax Polycrylic lately and like the results, simply light sand with 300 grit between each coat and dont over-brush it. Would you sand down the patina first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Shaun K--Great pic of the rear of both of them...see that letter "A" stamped into the top left rear side edges (as you face the rear of the cabinets) on both of those cabinets in the top pic you posted? That means that I built those cabinets. It also means that I was building solo, since there is only ONE initial there. So, they had to have been built prior to October of 1983, because I left Klipsch in September of 1983. They may not have shipped from the plant until up to three or more months after they were completed, though...depending upon how many were boxed awaiting pick-up and shipping. In September of each year back in those days, we were already well into building for the Christmas sales period for dealers, having started building orders for delivery during that period as early as June or July. The serial number will denote what time of the year they actually were boxed for shipping. Serial numbers were put on the labels after final assembly (installing drivers and crossover networks) and testing was completed. Terry Willis tested them and is still an employee (as of this past spring, anyway) at Klipsch in Hope. The "W" in your serial numbers denotes that they were tested and boxed in 1981. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 Isn't that cool Andy built them and they look awesome. Looks like Andy did a great job on those. I do not see much wrong with them, I'm sure the drivers all work so why mess with them??? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twk123 Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 56 minutes ago, Shaun K said: Would you sand down the patina first? I would definitely not, that is what gives the speaker its vintage character. The only sanding I would do is with some 200-300 grit on any place that has been dinged or splintered to smooth it out so they wont chip or de-laminate. Make sure you remove the horns and woofers from the cabs first before you stain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 6 hours ago, Shaun K said: Yeah, plan to get those tonight. Right now I'm gluing my KLF-10's so I can take pics and list them for sale :). ugh, got the backs glued nicely but the motorboard is loose on one of these too. gonna be a while before I get pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 OK, well I'm up late questioning life and my career, so here are a few more closeup pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 8 hours ago, Budman said: if you sand them you will remove 35yrs of petina. they will completely turn white and it will take that many more years to get that beatiful yellow color back I appreciate that, and I do love some patina (mostly on older cars though, but I can dig it on speakers too). Take a look at the chips/cracks in the latest pics though, and tell me if you think it's worth trying to repair. 6 hours ago, HDBRbuilder said: Shaun K--Great pic of the rear of both of them...see that letter "A" stamped into the top left rear side edges (as you face the rear of the cabinets) on both of those cabinets in the top pic you posted? That means that I built those cabinets. It also means that I was building solo, since there is only ONE initial there. So, they had to have been built prior to October of 1983, because I left Klipsch in September of 1983. They may not have shipped from the plant until up to three or more months after they were completed, though...depending upon how many were boxed awaiting pick-up and shipping. In September of each year back in those days, we were already well into building for the Christmas sales period for dealers, having started building orders for delivery during that period as early as June or July. The serial number will denote what time of the year they actually were boxed for shipping. Serial numbers were put on the labels after final assembly (installing drivers and crossover networks) and testing was completed. Terry Willis tested them and is still an employee (as of this past spring, anyway) at Klipsch in Hope. The "W" in your serial numbers denotes that they were tested and boxed in 1981. This post made my day, on a day when I'm feeling pretty crappy. Thank you! I was wondering about that "A". It's great to know that the person who built these cabs is here on this forum. I love history lessons like this, and that's part of what attracts me to this site and these speakers. 6 hours ago, ricktate said: Isn't that cool Andy built them and they look awesome. Looks like Andy did a great job on those. I do not see much wrong with them, I'm sure the drivers all work so why mess with them??? Certainly agree that there's nothing wrong with them. I swapped my KM-4's for these all day in my office, and while there wasn't as much bass response, I definitely heard more of the music, and it was easier on the ears after 6+ hours. I was thinking of putting these in my wife's office but I might need to find a way to make them work in my own office! 7 hours ago, twk123 said: I would go with the natural tone Minwax stain to highlight the wood grain and patina. The wood is old and dry so use some pre-stain first and it will come out much more evenly. Once you have stained the cabs, let them dry our for about 48 hrs then put on a few coats of your choice of clear coat. I have been working with Minwax Polycrylic lately and like the results, simply light sand with 300 grit between each coat and dont over-brush it. 5 hours ago, twk123 said: I would definitely not, that is what gives the speaker its vintage character. The only sanding I would do is with some 200-300 grit on any place that has been dinged or splintered to smooth it out so they wont chip or de-laminate. Make sure you remove the horns and woofers from the cabs first before you stain. I'm not certain whether to sand/stain/seal these yet, hopefully the more detailed pics can help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 Well if you want them to look pretty they will need Minwax wood filler and a re-veneer . Which pretty easy to do just have to tear them down completely and make sure the corners are square and sides are smooth. I have used both iron on veneer and contact cement methods . Might as well veneer the motor boards also makes it look awesome. You could put metal grill like Andy did to his in front of the woofer but behind the motor board and leave the fabric grills off. I would post pics of Andy's but I cant figure out how to work this windows 10 I got pics on here just cant get them over to here..lolpic of my Scalas motor board veneered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 57 minutes ago, ricktate said: Well if you want them to look pretty they will need Minwax wood filler and a re-veneer . Which pretty easy to do just have to tear them down completely and make sure the corners are square and sides are smooth. I have used both iron on veneer and contact cement methods . Might as well veneer the motor boards also makes it look awesome. You could put metal grill like Andy did to his in front of the woofer but behind the motor board and leave the fabric grills off. I would post pics of Andy's but I cant figure out how to work this windows 10 I got pics on here just cant get them over to here..lolpic of my Scalas motor board veneered. Tempting to go that far with them, but the argument for patina is also a good one. Maybe I should just concentrate on basic internal upgrades: crossovers, better drivers, maybe replace the terminals with binding posts? I've never had Heresy's nor have I really looked into upgrades for them...what's the scoop on budget improvements here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 If all of the drivers are working, from an electronic standpoint I would simply update the capacitors with equivalent values from Parts Express (Dayton Audio Caps), vacuum out the insides, make sure all of the connections are secure on all of the drivers and crossovers, and be done with it. http://www.parts-express.com/cat/capacitors/68?N=21113+4294967118+4294967060&Ne=10166&Nrs=collection()%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_PortalID"%2C"1")+and+endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_Searchable"%2C"1")]&PortalID=1 From a cabinetry perspective, we still don't have good photos of the tops and sides. I would not sand them, but likely use something like Howard's Restore A Finish in the Golden Oak color, with some fine steel wool, after you repair the chips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 40 minutes ago, jimjimbo said: If all of the drivers are working, from an electronic standpoint I would simply update the capacitors with equivalent values from Parts Express (Dayton Audio Caps), vacuum out the insides, make sure all of the connections are secure on all of the drivers and crossovers, and be done with it. http://www.parts-express.com/cat/capacitors/68?N=21113+4294967118+4294967060&Ne=10166&Nrs=collection()%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_PortalID"%2C"1")+and+endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_Searchable"%2C"1")]&PortalID=1 From a cabinetry perspective, we still don't have good photos of the tops and sides. I would not sand them, but likely use something like Howard's Restore A Finish in the Golden Oak color, with some fine steel wool, after you repair the chips. I'll take more pics today. I guess it's time to brush up on my soldering skills! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twk123 Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 16 minutes ago, jimjimbo said: If all of the drivers are working, from an electronic standpoint I would simply update the capacitors with equivalent values from Parts Express (Dayton Audio Caps), vacuum out the insides, make sure all of the connections are secure on all of the drivers and crossovers, and be done with it. http://www.parts-express.com/cat/capacitors/68?N=21113+4294967118+4294967060&Ne=10166&Nrs=collection()%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_PortalID"%2C"1")+and+endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_Searchable"%2C"1")]&PortalID=1 From a cabinetry perspective, we still don't have good photos of the tops and sides. I would not sand them, but likely use something like Howard's Restore A Finish in the Golden Oak color, with some fine steel wool, after you repair the chips. I will second that on the capacitors. The Dayton Audio ones are an excellent value and the ones I put in my Heresy HIP sound really good. Very smooth and controlled. Plywood delamination is rough and if you filled it it will still be noticeable as the filler wont have the grain that the plywood does and would be very noticeable. I think in your case I would either just leave them be and accept the scars or do as ricktate suggested and veneer them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 Pics of the tops and sides! I have higher resolution versions but I didn't want to overdo it in this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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