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ACV92

DIY Sub Questions

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Thanks for the tips guys.  As a note on the glue debate, I just mentioned this to wvu80 in a PM, I decided to go with the PL.  While it may hold through a nuclear blast I'm leaning towards Titebond, or another wood glue.  The cure time on PL is 24 hours.  I'm thinking I could have had the box built by now using another glue.  And yes, the PL is thick.  This is my first flat pack.  It's not that complicated, I'm just learning for the next one.  One more thing, as I told wvu80, I need more clamps!!!

 

Anything that you guys see wrong with this build by PE, it's an Ultimax 18:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcydtduDNec

 

I feel like I should have watched this first.

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I'm sorry if I didn't get the SEOS vid to you in time.  It's the best I've ever seen on a building a flat pack.  I'm including it now so the next guy will have both vids in the same place.

 

For the next time.  B)

 

 

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Not using brad nails is a real time saver, until a panel or two slips out of place while drying on the bench.

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Agreed.  A nail gun will let you zip through the build and decrease the number of clamps you need as they can be removed prior to the glue drying.

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This is a great thread and I'll have to go back and read it in more detail.  There is so much to absorb.

 

I know this is already well under way, but I wanted to mention a sub amp that I sell and have used many times.  IMO it's the best "bang for the buck" in this range.

 

https://www.snapav.com/shop/en/snapav/amplifiers-speaker/episode-reg%3B-digital-subwoofer-amplifier---500w-with-front-panel-display-ea-amp-sub-1d-500r

 

 I also wanted to ask about comparing the Eminence LAB15 driver to the Dayton Umax that the OP is using.  I have been considering building box with the LAB15, but the Dayton Umax looks impressive.

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43 minutes ago, pat_in_dfw said:

This is a great thread and I'll have to go back and read it in more detail.  There is so much to absorb.

 

I know this is already well under way, but I wanted to mention a sub amp that I sell and have used many times.  IMO it's the best "bang for the buck" in this range.

 

https://www.snapav.com/shop/en/snapav/amplifiers-speaker/episode-reg%3B-digital-subwoofer-amplifier---500w-with-front-panel-display-ea-amp-sub-1d-500r

 

 I also wanted to ask about comparing the Eminence LAB15 driver to the Dayton Umax that the OP is using.  I have been considering building box with the LAB15, but the Dayton Umax looks impressive.

 

The Eminence Lab 15 is more expensive and a bit less detailed in the midbass area if that is what you were going for, probably fine if you cross over to the mains below 70 Hz.

 

The Ultimax is a great driver but i would choose either of the Dayton HO or HF over any of these choices personally.

 

How much is the amplifier you linked for us ?

 

 

 

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I can tell you that the amp has an MSRP of $999 but I can discount it heavily. I can't post in a public forum what I can sell it for because that's a violation of my dealer agreement but I could send you a quote or private message you if you are interested.

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I don't need one personally but will spread the word for another amplifier option if you want to PM me a price.

 

Maybe somebody else will be interested as well.

 

As long as we are in the DIY section here is this weeks flavor of drop ceiling subs.

 

58bc93a645178_canon001.thumb.JPG.fd35ec68aafe57f4684d39131e5dd8a6.JPG

 

 

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A drop ceiling sub sounds like a nice solution for some folks.  How thick is the sub?

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And how much does it weigh? If my wife asks, I'm asking for a friend;) 

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14 hours ago, derrickdj1 said:

A drop ceiling sub sounds like a nice solution for some folks.  How thick is the sub?

 

These are just over 11" with hardware.

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14 hours ago, dtr20 said:

And how much does it weigh? If my wife asks, I'm asking for a friend;) 

 

Never weighed them, they stay local. Made to be lightweight for easy install yet braced well.

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15 hours ago, derrickdj1 said:

A drop ceiling sub sounds like a nice solution for some folks.  How thick is the sub?

:) I hear the wheels spinning here...you've got a prime candidate drop-ceiling :) 

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54 minutes ago, jason str said:

 

These are just over 11" with hardware.

Can't tell the dimensions from the picture but it looks great, and ported.  10" driver?  What did you build here?  

Very sharp looking!  

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This model contains a 12" driver and its not an easy build design to say the least.

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Those look good.  Do you test placement before installing or do you rely more on Eq'ing, or both?  Seems like an in ceiling would definitely be more involved than a standard sub setup.  Although, in some situations you could probably get them closer to the listener versus a floor setup aligning with Dr. Hsu's philosophy of get them as close as possible.

 

Question for my box though.  Do you guys know if Bondo, I bought an all purpose version, will stick to the PL residue?  I've scraped some of it off but there is still some residual.  I'm using Bondo to fill the seams before I prime/paint. 

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4 minutes ago, ACV92 said:

Those look good.  Do you test placement before installing or do you rely more on Eq'ing, or both?  Seems like an in ceiling would definitely be more involved than a standard sub setup.  Although, in some situations you could probably get them closer to the listener versus a floor setup aligning with Dr. Hsu's philosophy of get them as close as possible.

 

Question for my box though.  Do you guys know if Bondo, I bought an all purpose version, will stick to the PL residue?  I've scraped some of it off but there is still some residual.  I'm using Bondo to fill the seams before I prime/paint. 

 

These are purchased by a local A/V company, they do the testing and the install.

 

I use Bondo auto body filler, have so for 30 years and it sticks to most anything including PLX3. Never used the all purpose type.

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Excellent job Jason.  It looks like the standard tile size of 2X2.

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49 minutes ago, derrickdj1 said:

Excellent job Jason.  It looks like the standard tile size of 2X2.

 

Thank you Derrick.

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