jason str Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 18 minutes ago, HDBRbuilder said: It all depends on the type of material and the type of joinery you use for the assembly...and the type of glue. I still use tightbond wood glue...it has proven itself. WOOD glue actually is SUPPOSED to get into the fiber of the items it is used upon, making the joint stronger than the wood around it! But I would NEVER use tightbond on an MDF project! I have personally SEEN WOODEN speaker cabinet assemblies which got trashed, and way more often than NOT, the joint held, but the wood around it came to pieces. When building with WOOD, I also wipe tightbond into the seams after assembly. That is why I pre-finish (with a semi-gloss polyurethane) the (plywood) LaScala doghouse assembly itself and the INSIDE of the bass bin portion(except for the glue joint areas) PRIOR to assembly...I can build the cabinet up and then WIPE more tightbond into the joints of the cabinet, and clean up the extra and NOT leave a "glue line" that would show up if I had waited until AFTER assembly to apply finish. It takes more time, but it is worth the effort. I try to avoid MDF. Any of these glues will hold, i use PL so i don't have to go back over my work. If you were gluing finished panels tofether i can see the need for wood glue as it wipes clean very easy, i build the cabinet and normally duratex or veneer so priorities are different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 45 minutes ago, jason str said: If you use wood glue you will probably have to caulk the inside seams to make it absolutely leak proof, its great for doll or bird house construction but not so much when you need an airtight seal. Gorilla glue expands a bit, i use it at times. PL premium X-3 is what i use 99.5% of the time, it expands and its very strong. The secret of Gorilla is the "Misting" of water on surfaces to be bonded, prior to application of the glue, expands and dries complete/faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboKlipsch Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 1 hour ago, minermark said: The secret of Gorilla is the "Misting" of water on surfaces to be bonded, prior to application of the glue, expands and dries complete/faster. Love the trick idea here. But I wasn't sure, with only 7700 posts and 17500 likes, can you really be trusted I will try this next time, I assume it's just a very light spritz? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 7 minutes ago, RoboKlipsch said: Love the trick idea here. But I wasn't sure, with only 7700 posts and 17500 likes, can you really be trusted I will try this next time, I assume it's just a very light spritz? The instructions are printed on the container i believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboKlipsch Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 1 minute ago, jason str said: The instructions are printed on the container i believe. They do but this is a special trick he's describing. As you know well, there is danger with water around mdf which just sucks it up like a traveler who just came out of the desert. Fastest way to ruin a project with mdf would be to get it wet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 9 minutes ago, RoboKlipsch said: Love the trick idea here. But I wasn't sure, with only 7700 posts and 17500 likes, can you really be trusted I will try this next time, I assume it's just a very light spritz? Iv have at one time or another, soaked, thought i put too much water on, did not seem to matter. i did wipe off excess. just so the water is not running/dripping wet. damp may be the better word. Read the find print on the Gorilla glue bottles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 1 minute ago, RoboKlipsch said: They do but this is a special trick he's describing. As you know well, there is danger with water around mdf which just sucks it up like a traveler who just came out of the desert. Fastest way to ruin a project with mdf would be to get it wet Misting should not hurt, i do NOT use MDF for anything. oldschool here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboKlipsch Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 directions? you and jason keep sayin read the label, why? lol jk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 26 minutes ago, RoboKlipsch said: They do but this is a special trick he's describing. As you know well, there is danger with water around mdf which just sucks it up like a traveler who just came out of the desert. Fastest way to ruin a project with mdf would be to get it wet Special Trick? Um....i read the instructions on "The" Bottle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Be aware there are different kinds of glue, basically white (interior), yellow (interior.exterior) and polyurethane. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1525181-best-glue-mdf-best-glue-diy-speakers-subs.html The white and yellow glues are runny and thin. This is not a bad thing, read on. I have use Locktite PL Premium and it has a thicker consistency like toothpaste, but not quite that thick. I DO NOT like this for DIY Soundgroup flatpacks because the tolerances are so tight the PL makes seams stand out. Something like Titebond II is better. Gorilla Glue is polyurethane and expensive, and it is the one that expands into the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twk123 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 If I was building a flat pack I would use Titebond II because its easier to spread and doest expand out of joints as much. Its easier to clean up as well. If I was doing my own cutting and building a cab however, I would use Gorilla Glue as it expands into any imperfections to hold better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 18 minutes ago, wvu80 said: Be aware there are different kinds of glue, basically white (interior), yellow (interior.exterior) and polyurethane. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1525181-best-glue-mdf-best-glue-diy-speakers-subs.html The white and yellow glues are runny and thin. This is not a bad thing, read on. I have use Locktite PL Premium and it has a thicker consistency like toothpaste, but not quite that thick. I DO NOT like this for DIY Soundgroup flatpacks because the tolerances are so tight the PL makes seams stand out. Something like Titebond II is better. Gorilla Glue is polyurethane and expensive, and it is the one that expands into the wood. Pl Premium X3 and Gorilla glue are both Polyurethane based. Nothing wrong with using wood glue, i just recommend you use a good caulk around the interior seams to assure you made a proper seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 44 minutes ago, wvu80 said: the PL makes seams stand out. Wait one hour and hand run a chisel over the seam, it peels right off. Less than an hour it's messy, more than an hour and it gets really hard. Time will vary with temperature and humidity but an hour is close in most cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 4 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: Wait one hour and hand run a chisel over the seam, it peels right off. Less than an hour it's messy, more than an hour and it gets really hard. Time will vary with temperature and humidity but an hour is close in most cases. Absolutely, much less sanding involved using this method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 2 hours ago, jason str said: Nothing wrong with using wood glue, i just recommend you use a good caulk around the interior seams to assure you made a proper seal. My PE Reference sub build had a terrific flat pack. FYI Erich of DIY Soundgroup provides the flat packs to PE so I may refer to the kits interchangeably, I went to DIYSG for a current picture showing how the flat pack is designed, with CNC cut daedoes. The actual pics don't show the daedoes like I expected, so I have to reserve comment since the design might have changed since I got mine a couple of years ago. That might change what glue I recommend, which is usually the Titebond II, and a NOT for the PL Premium. This is a current pic from the DIYSG website showing the flat surface bracing mount, vs the daedo mount (recessed channel) that was how mine was constructed from a couple of years ago. It may be the same, I'm just not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Flat packs fit together so perfectly, it's fine to use wood glue. Just make sure you get a good even squish out at the seams. You can wipe the excess off with a damp rag. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 15 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: Flat packs fit together so perfectly, it's fine to use wood glue. Just make sure you get a good even squish out at the seams. You can wipe the excess off with a damp rag. Agree, that's the point I was making. I like the yellow indoor/outdoor glue like Titebond II, but there is no reason why the white Titebond I wouldn't wouldn't work just as well. I probably fall into the category of idiots where I think a bottle of $6 glue is better than a bottle of $4 glue. This is the stuff I don't think should be used with the ultra precise CNC cut flatpacks. It's just too thick and the edges won't line up. Here is the exact way my flat pack was cut, and you can see how the glue is applied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 You can use PL with flat packs. Just use less and have clamps handy to align panels. You should use them anyways. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 14 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: You can use PL with flat packs. Just use less and have clamps handy to align panels. You should use them anyways. It's not the glue for the job. It is so thick that it raises the joints so they are not flush. I do use clamps in addition to hundreds of pounds of weightlifting weights. I've made flatpack kits using Titebond II, Gorilla Glue (polyurethane) and the PL Premium. Use the less viscous white or yellow woodworkers glue. Please believe me when I say the PL Premium WITH THESE KITS does not work well. Well, it will work technically, but you'll have to sand and fill on ALL SEAMS. If you use white or yellow glue, you won't. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 I don't remember which PL Premium I used. It was in a tube and I applied it with a caulk gun to fix my cabs. I even used it to fix my toilet. That stuff is bass ***.If I remember correctly, it was grey in color....stayed pliable for maybe 30 minutes and cured hard as fricken concrete.Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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