NealM Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) I own a pair of Forte 1 speakers since 1986 and continue to enjoy them to this day. I power them with my vintage 1976 Luxman M-2000 amplifier and a 1976 Dynaco PAT 4 preamp. Sounds fantastic for decades never needing repairs of any sort whatsoever. I have three questions regarding the Fortes I am hoping someone in the forum will be kind to answer: 1) Where are serial numbers located on the Fortes? 2) The black pain is wearing off in some spots, are there recommendations? or should I just leave them and not worry? 3) One rear passive radiator has its dust cap pushed in slightly...should I leave it and not worry? or fix it? Thank you, Newbie here in the forum, my name is Neal Edited August 19, 2017 by NealM 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Welcome to the forum NealM ! The serial numbers are on the label on the rear of each(sticker) Sometime they appear on an inspection sticker inside the cabinet but, may not be always. My Chorus does, I think. Yes matching the veneer pattern with paint is a chore. For small areas, you may consider a felt pen. There are a couple of method for repairing the passive, or more. Will let others with more experience in touchup/repair assist you. A pic of speakers with areas of interest may assist. Meanwhile, there are troves of info on all questions to be found in searching the forum. Welcome again and nice gear... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NealM Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 Billybob, thanks for the rapid responses and rolling out the welcome carpet! No label I can see on the rear sides. Do I need to open the cabinets to see the serial numbers? oh my!! Yes, felt tip Sharpie idea is precisely what I've done for years, but the removed paint areas are too large now I think unless I get a wider graffiti type sharpie -I'll look into that! Since the push in dust cap dome on passive radiator in back is not visible to front I think I should just stop worrying about it. Ok, I will further search the forum! Appreciation for your support! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Yes, I would wait to do too much like pulling drivers and other things to look until you get comfy with answers here. You may find them in your search. Meanwhile, others will be around, today is just slow at the moment. Proceed with other answers besides myself it you want to...let others chime in. You may find s/n on your old paperwork, if you can find or still have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NealM Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) All good suggestions, thanks. I bought these from Harvey Electronics in NYC 31 years ago, and I have the owner's manuals and registration cards that I never sent in, but doubt I have receipts from Harvey anywhere filed... will have to dig deep into the archives :-) thanks again and appreciate the help. Edited August 19, 2017 by NealM ADDED photos 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Yes quite a large area. Thinking magic marker, even a wide one will not do justice. Looks like could be the black ash veneer but, could be wrong. Some of the many handy ones will eventually show because they have some answers. Seems you are patient so, pics look good enough for starters. Had a black ash similar that someone had shot a spot of flat black and it stuck out like a sore thumb at the right angle. I resold speaker for other reasons. Did you find anything useful in forum search? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueHusky79 Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Neal welcome to the forum, to echo Billy Bob's message.I own Forte II, since day 1. Like you have enjoyed them to the point that over the years. After checking out replacement, always return to my Forte's very pleased. Unfortunately, your black finish issue is beyond my experience. The rear inactive Bass cover, I have had same issue.Quick easy solution; use your vacuum with hose, carefully apply to speaker and slowly working from outer side of dent, let the vac pull on speaker. It will begin to pop back, work slowly with purpose. I picked up that tip many years ago from this forum. Only solution I have used that corrected issue, with no damage. You have the opportunity on this forum to learn much more about your speakers. Including tips to freshen them up to sound even better as I have.Good luck and reach out if you have any questions or comments. I don't always post, but read as I enjoy the commonly and friendship. Jeff.Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Endo Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 [deleted] I type too slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 12 minutes ago, Endo said: [deleted] I type too slow. maybe it auto-saved it...look again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 I would suggest sanding all of the black off of the cabinets and starting fresh. I did this to my chorus II speakers and they came out beautiful, but you need to take your time. If you worked on it every night, it may take a week. Black is really tough to stain. I tried many stains, then I tried a black gel stain. I had a hard time getting this to work, but after trial and error, I figured it out. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/general-finishes-gel-stain-black-quart I would stain one panel at a time and let it dry over night. I'm not sure how many coats you would need because of all of my trials. I recommend using a foam brush to apply a thin even coat. Let dry, rotate to a different panel. When completely happy with the cabinets, apply a wax finish, I use Howard's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BKQYGW/ref=asc_df_B001BKQYGW5130190/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B001BKQYGW&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151917164&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5196184325658335018&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002168&hvtargid=pla-359966166447 Good luck and keep us updated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Valspar black satin at Lowes is what I used on KLF-30's. Looked great and easy to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Yes or some light sanding and use some minwax (or other brand) ebony stain. May be close enough after several coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 removing the old black paint is a good idea but veneer is thin and you would be much safer to use a chemical paint stripper (one with lots of methylene chloride) to remove the majority of the paint first then tidy up with a light sanding with 220 grit. then you are only smoothing the surface veneer to ready it for coating with paint. Better safe than sorry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint_stripper 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 6 minutes ago, moray james said: removing the old black paint is a good idea but veneer is think Did you mean to say the veneer is "not very thick"? I would concur, if so. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 1 minute ago, avguytx said: Did you mean to say the veneer is "not very thick"? I would concur, if so. yes thin have made a correction to my post. Also to those who want to remove the paint from a painted set and then use clear poly over the bare wood. You will be able to remove most all the paint with a chemical stripper safely but you are always going to have some black paint in the grain of the veneer and you are not going to be able to remove it. Do not make the mistake of thinking that you can sand away the paint in the grain of the veneer you will sand through the veneer before you remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 Interesting. Do not know about OP's desires but may be just happy making them look some better. Then what? It would be cool to do them in piano black, glossy but wonder what it would take to make them a fairly decent piano black. You all know more than me. Like all recc.s myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NealM Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 Thank you all, overwhelmed with gratitude for the support good people... since I just became a gramps a few days ago, I just don't have as much time on hand to do all that may be required to fully refinish them myself at the moment. I'd rather relax with family and listen to the music and enjoy vs. using any harsh paint removers or paint (at this juncture). BlueHusky, the vac idea is exactly what I've tried numerous times unsuccessfully with my Electrolux canister vacuum circa same age as the Fortes :-) but will try again using your slide over technique .... maybe I need a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Again, I'm so grateful for all the help here, and never realized through the decades of Klipsch ownership that this wellspring of likeminded obsessive audiophiles were lurking "inside the speakers"- will revert back and wishing all more listening enjoyment... Thank heaven.... none of my issues effect the sound. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 Even if you are able to pull out the dust cap dents they will still look less than new. The dents have zero impact upon the passive's performance as there is no attached coil on the cone, the dust cap simply covers the opening where a coil would go if the cone were used as a woofer. If there are no air leaks in the dust cap don't worry about it. You should probably get a set of cheap steel grills to protect them from things like grand kids as they are very hard to find used and covers are cheap. Simply Speakers has very solid and nice looking ones for very little. Once the grills are on you would not even notice the dents in the dust cap either so there is a bonus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NowBlasting Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 You could always get the dust cap replaced. I'm sure it would be inexpensive. I just picked up some Forte II's last night and I'm looking to go from the oak finish to a black finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 Yes, very easy to replace the dust caps. @NowBlasting I would seriously reconsider going to a black finish from oak, unless the oak is really messed up. Black finish does not have the same resale value as oak, walnut, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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