Marvel Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 On 12/2/2018 at 10:05 AM, Don McPhee said: OK so a couple of comments ; you say that with most systems that you always have a sub in the mix but with the K horn‘s none is needed. I’ve heard others say that Lescala which has similar numbers people have commented that they were very weak at the bottom end . That’s comforting to hear that this particular cabinet is solid in the-base department . LaScala bass starts dropping below 100Hz, because it is a much shorter horn. The Khorn horn length is closer to 7 ft. They use the same components, but the cabinets ae diffeent designs. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceptorman Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 Congrats on your purchase. Do you have proper corners already picked out? Those labels look brand new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don McPhee Posted December 3, 2018 Author Share Posted December 3, 2018 6 minutes ago, Ceptorman said: Congrats on your purchase. Do you have proper corners already picked out? Those labels look brand new. Yes I have 1 good corner and the other needs a corner "side" so I will be building false corners which also gives me the luxury of additional toe-in/toe-out adjustment. I'm currently looking for build options.... Cheers Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 1 hour ago, Don McPhee said: Yes I have 1 good corner and the other needs a corner "side" so I will be building false corners which also gives me the luxury of additional toe-in/toe-out adjustment. I'm currently looking for build options.... Cheers Don I had a thread with photos on how a built a "half corner". This might spark an alternative approach for you to use or modify. Try searching Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baron167 Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 And don't be disappointed when the low end house shaking promised don't come true. They go low, but don't pressurize the room like a good 18"sub. Most people don't understand basic physics; you're not gonna feel a "hit" of bass at a casual listening distance.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don McPhee Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share Posted December 4, 2018 51 minutes ago, baron167 said: And don't be disappointed when the low end house shaking promised don't come true. They go low, but don't pressurize the room like a good 18"sub. Most people don't understand basic physics; you're not gonna feel a "hit" of bass at a casual listening distance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Yes understanding the nuts and bolts can be tricky....I still dont know how I get earth shattering bass from my active sub on my Goldenear Triton 1's (set at 1 ocklock) when these components Three - 5˝ x 9˝ Long-Throw Quadratic Subwoofer Bass Drivers, coupled to: Four - 7˝ x 10˝ Quadratic Planar Infrasonic Radiators is all thats driving the sub. I mean the bass is crazy...rattles the walls on the far side of the house and thats set almost at default setting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 2 hours ago, baron167 said: And don't be disappointed when the low end house shaking promised don't come true. They go low, but don't pressurize the room like a good 18"sub. Most people don't understand basic physics; you're not gonna feel a "hit" of bass at a casual listening distance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Having never had an 18" sub, I can't comment on their pressurizing ability, BUT, with the Crystal Clear Records version of "Fanfare for the Common Man," the timpani, bass drum and tam-tam through my Klipschorns flaps my pants legs at 16 feet away, and will move a table, heavy chair or couch in a way I can feel, without using a subwoofer. It can also rattle double hung windows at the other end of the house. In my 4,250 cu.ft. room, with the Khorns sealed into their corners, they are fairly smooth down to 33 Hz, and also cross the 0 dB at 1K Hz line at 33 Hz. Their response extends to about 24 dB, pretty cleanly, with minimum doubling. 6 hours ago, Marvel said: The K-400 is cast aluminum, the K-400 is and injection molded synthetic. The are an exponential horn, and many have moved to a tractrix flare horn, which can sound more open. There is nothing really wrong with the 400/401 horns, but if overdriven,i.e., played very loud, can get a bit congested. Bruce I think what Bruce meant to say is that the K-400 is cast aluminum, and the K-401 is injection molded synthetic. Klipsch claims that the (newer) K401 has "slightly lower distortion." It was introduced in 1987. I replaced my K-400s with K-401s several years ago, listened as hard as I could, and could hear no difference. I can often hear subtle differences in sound. Other than replacing the caps (or having somebody like Bob Crites replace them), I would listen to them without changes ("upgrades"), with all kinds of music, for about a year before trying any changes, then change only one Khorn first and compare the two for a few days. Then, without changing anything else, move the left speaker to the right corner, and vice versa, and listen for a few more days. Let us know if there is 1) an improvement, and 2) an improvement that is worth the money. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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