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Anyone out there who has veneered their Klipsch speakers or anything for that matter I could use any pointers or tips you can offer up?   Going to veneer my Supers next week with 22mil Italian Zebrawood.  Bought the tools Jay at Oakwood veneer suggested as well as the gel contact cement.   Once trimmed out and done, not sure whats best for appearance, oil or satin poly?

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If you can, practice on something small first. "Joe Woodworker" has some great FAQ pages and videos. There are probably good youtube views also. Please keep in mind that any (no matter how small) defects on the surface will show through the veneer. All edges and corners need to be crisp. I would not use poly. Oil is a better alternative. The greater the sheen, the more noticeable any defects will be. 

Good luck and take your time

-Tom

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ive only done smaller projects, never a full speaker so cant comment on the installation tips, but there are some good youtube vids & oakwood will give great advice.

 

as for the oil vs poly... either will look good, its up to you on what you prefer. oil looks more natural & will need to be re oiled perodically for best protection.  poly will last much longer & protect better from water stains etc but you will see the thin coating more than oil & if you've never applied it before it can get orange peel or bubbles. i use a foam brush & lightly sand between coats & dont shake the can, just stir it.  & work in a dust free room, lint & debris will stick & show up in poly.

 

that veneer will look great either way you do it!

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ok, I will check out some more vids today.   Think i'll get everything cut today as well.

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Veneer is cut to size.  I'll get it all glued on next week.

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I myself liked ironing on using Titebond II.  Works very well.  Some say there are issues with using contact cement.

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1 hour ago, pzannucci said:

I myself liked ironing on using Titebond II.  Works very well.  Some say there are issues with using contact cement.

I'll take a look at that.  Thanks

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Another vote for Titebond II and ironing method. Aligning edges and grain is easier with a dry adhesive method.

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I have done the titebond II and iron method multiple times and love it. Super simple and great results

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@mopardave

 

I used a solvent based contact adhesive. My expert suggested that water based adhesive would not adhere as well. 

The attached picture is just to show the tools I used. Only assembly aides not shown are 5 or 6 wooden dowels, about 3/8" diameter, that i used to keep the veneer from touching the cabinet while I aligned the veneer. Keep your overlaps small or your grain patterns will not match well. (I found that a 3/8" overlap worked for me.)

It can be tricky to get everything just right. But just be patient and practice on some samples first.

 

You can go back and review some of the thread i posted last year when I did my Cornwalls. It was not really a "how to" thread, but it might help.

 

Good luck.

Jerry

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2 hours ago, TFR1 said:

@mopardave

 

I used a paper backed 22mil veneer.

 

Jerry

Ok.  Mine is bfv.   Bubble free backing..  Jay at oakwood veneers has some vids on their site showing how to apply.  Doesn't look too tough at all.  Thanks

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13 hours ago, TFR1 said:

@mopardave

 

I used a paper backed 22mil veneer.

 

Jerry

Something else I just thought of. Will I need edge banding for around the front of the Heresy's?   I had planned on using same veneer around that with squared cuts just as Klipsch built them. All squared corners.

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@mopardave

 

You are correct, this is not difficult to do. The details can be a pain in the butt.

 

Just be very careful applying glue and  trimming flush.

 

You Cabinets will look great!

 

Jerry

 

 

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@mopardave

 

I applied edge banding. It was very easy to iron on. But using the veneer you have already purchased is a good idea. 

 

I would suggest that you miter cut the corners. All the Klipsch cabinets that I have seen veneered have 45degree miter cut corners.

(I believe only the Raw Birch cabs have unfinished butt joints at the corners)

 

jerry

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For perfect mitered veneer corners, you can slightly overlap the two perpendicular pieces at the joint. Then I use a speed square and align the 45° side to the corner. Use a razor to cut through both layers at the same time. Remove scrap and you will have a perfect joint.

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Only use the Titebond II and iron on method if your veneer has a backing. If you use that method on raw veneer it will seep through any imperfections in the wood grain and it will never accept stain or oil like the wood will.

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6 minutes ago, capo72 said:

For perfect mitered veneer corners, you can slightly overlap the two perpendicular pieces at the joint. Then I use a speed square and align the 45° side to the corner. Use a razor to cut through both layers at the same time. Remove scrap and you will have a perfect joint.

Use a razor blade as stated!  I don't know what I was thinking and used a box knife on one of my miters on a receiver cabinet which left a tiny gap.  Fill and stain made it disappear 95% but it's still noticeable.  I felt really stupid which is why you should never rush.  

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5 hours ago, muel said:

Use a razor blade as stated!  I don't know what I was thinking and used a box knife on one of my miters on a receiver cabinet which left a tiny gap.  Fill and stain made it disappear 95% but it's still noticeable.  I felt really stupid which is why you should never rush.  

Very good advice.  I think I have all the tools needed including a router with a downward spiral bit for trimming the edges.

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