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klipsch KPT-884-SW add SVS amp in garage


dtximages

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I came across a used KPT884 subwoofer that came out of a Cinemark theater and wondering the best way to hook it up to my garage gym system.. Yes I know it's an overkill but it's fun.  

 

I have an amp from an SVS SB16 I'm not using.  I hooked it up and it works fine and gives me phone app control which is great but is this a royal sin somehow?  Is there a better way I should be powering it?

 

Lastly, what's the best way to get into the cabinet? There are no visible screws. I'd like to add some bracing or dynamat or something.  The walls visible shake and sounds totally hollow on the inside. I thought about internal bracing but then thought about adding another layer of MDF or something to the outside for extra rigidity.

 

Anyone done anything interesting with these?  I'm sure I'll end up selling in a few months if anyone in the Dallas area is interested.  

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I added veneer to the face panels of my set.

 

Your SVS amp might be EQ'd specifically for the SVS, but could be good enough for your new subs, since you have DSP adjustments.

 

Yes, the entire cabinet resonates, but maybe it was designed to be a huge passive radiator? 

 

IMG_4217.JPG.f779ea85e146c44c78f38bf96e437a23.JPG

 

 

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OMG what drivers are those?  As far as the whole cabinet resonating, no that's never (should never be at least) by design.  It's called building to a price point and no body cares in a cinema setting unfortunately.  If you have not yet, I think these could use some serious cabinet mods.

 

How do you power yours?  If you're in Texas I'd love to see those!

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Anyone know how to get inside this thing?  I'd love to just remove the back panel.  I've been trying to think of the best way to go about this.  Jig saw the back out?  Then replace it a new piece of more rigid mdf or something? 

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On 1/15/2024 at 11:29 AM, dtximages said:

Lastly, what's the best way to get into the cabinet? There are no visible screws.

I think the only way in is to remove the woofer for access. Then figure out how to get bracing through the opening.

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Most powered sub amps like the SVS one you have will be specifically made for that sub and probably wouldn’t be the best to use for what you want to use it for.

 

I’d just look for a cheap pro amp.

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That's kinda what I was thinking too.  It is cool to have the SVS app though to help tune and play around with.  But with the pro amp, what do I do about an external crossover?  I think some pro amps have low pass filters right?  So that's essentially my subwoofer amp right there... correct?

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Right now this is just a garage system so I'm using a Marantz sr1609 receiver.. Sub out to the SVS amp sitting on top of this big thing.  

 

The subwoofer management in this receiver is limited and difficult to made adjustments on the fly or while listening. 

 

I really want an external amp with some adjustment knobs on the front. I'm sure this is out there, I just don't have time to research and go down dead end roads.  Hoping someone here could say "this is what you need for that..."

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I run a pair of 884s.  You must really be pushing them hard if you are seeing the cabinets flex.  I have not seen mine do that.  Maybe I haven't looked closely enough.  I am using a QSC PLX2 1104 for about 310 wpc.  But just having listened to just the subs here and there at times........I doubt I play anywhere near what it would take to flex the cabinets. 😃

 

As far as I know the only way inside is to remove the woofer.

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"pushing really hard" is subjective but it's not hard to believe. I mean these were made with one thing in mind, output.  Also, a box this large that only weighs 140lbs cannot be properly braced internally for optimal performance in a home environment.

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On 1/15/2024 at 11:51 AM, dtximages said:

Anyone know how to get inside this thing?  I'd love to just remove the back panel.  I've been trying to think of the best way to go about this.  Jig saw the back out?  Then replace it a new piece of more rigid mdf or something? 

 

You could remove the 18" driver and see that the large opening is enough to fit some proper length 2x4s inside for a few cross-braces. That would be the easier way, rather than sawing open the back panel, unless you plan a complex CNC'd web style brace.

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  • 1 month later...

it's notttt really a HT sub but sure, go for it. due to the construction the only way in is through the driver (as mentioned).

this is not the best solution, but instead of dropping huge $, use a passive. this sub goes down to 18hz in the specs but, looking closer, it's 27hz at +/- 3db. specs also say it goes up to 240hz. nice! 

this passive cuts at 250hz: https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-PX-B250-Low-Pass-Crossover-Board-250-Hz-290-612?quantity=1

use this with a bridged pro amp - QSC usa series are cheap and do a good job on the used market amongst other heavy duty toroidal boiz. that's what a lot of cinemas used to spec.

looking for amps with a crossover?

if you have small $ to burn, get a crown XLS.

if you have muy $ to burn, QSC DCA. and pair with a used qsc cinema processor..

 

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