AndyKubicki Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 What were you thinking!!?? I just won this auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3040333319 . That means I need to clean and lubricate my 4002. Does anybody know what is best suited for the B&O? I'm sure the old lubricants have become dry and are not allowing the tangential tracking arm assembly to move smoothly. I don't want to use just anything...anyone know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 Can you explain where you will be putting it exactly (the lubricant that is, you sick puppy) . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobile homeless Posted August 16, 2003 Share Posted August 16, 2003 good lord... You must really want to get that ole B&O back in service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 For lubricant, go to a bicycle store and ask for a synthetic grease for bikes. It will be lower viscosity than automotive stuff and cause less friction because of that. If they ask, "for use on what," say "bottom brackets" (the pedal axle). Old bottom brackets and new cheap new ones are not sealed and require repacking. If you determine you need more of an oil, ask for synthetic chain lube. It will go on thin, but the carrier that makes it thin will evaporate and leave a light viscosity synthetic oil that is a touch clingy. I guess any old solvent would be good enough. Lacquer thinner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyKubicki Posted August 17, 2003 Author Share Posted August 17, 2003 Can you explain where you will be putting it exactly (the lubricant that is, you sick puppy) I just can't help myself at times. The tracking assembly travels on a threaded rod and that is what needs to be re-lubed. This rod spins and positions the tone arm to follow the grooves or once the record is done playing (or the stop button is depressed) returns the tone arm to its rest spot. Yeah Kelly, the cheapie little Scott TT isn't going to cut it. OTOH, I don't want to have to dump a bunch of $$$ into a better one when I have a good one that just needs a little TLC. The suspension on those things is awesome, and hopefully this cartridge is as good as it appears to be. John, I'm not sure I know how to react to that....bicycle grease????? Surely Ye just... ...or are you serious??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Bey Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 Andy you could try what I used to fix a CD bearing: electric motor oil, as found in hobby stores for use on those little race cars. Very fine, works well in adverse conditions. Not that the RPM will match the motor's but hey... That or sewing machine oil. I think you want a very light oil... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 Andy, I'm absolutely serious and I explained why. Obviously you don't want to use lots of it. As I remember those TTs had a light grease on the rod. If available, always use a synthetic, it's slicker. You did ask for best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyKubicki Posted August 17, 2003 Author Share Posted August 17, 2003 Thanks all! Seems that what you say makes sense...I guess the idea is that you don't want to leave a layer of oil that will have dust stick to it. I even know of a bike shop nearby...I'll see what they have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnorv Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 You might want to consider graphite as a lubricant. It is (was) used in locks. Goes on as a dry powder so will not attract dust. Not the same as the stuff in pencils. Jim N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 17, 2003 Share Posted August 17, 2003 Oh gosh, don't joke about lacquer thinner. It is very bad for plastics and a fire hazard. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOSValves Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 A shot in the dark here but wouldn't the graphite type stuff that we all used for are boy scout derby cars do a fine job for this ? Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodger Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 ---------------- On 8/18/2003 7:18:20 AM NOSValves wrote: A shot in the dark here but wouldn't the graphite type stuff that we all used for are boy scout derby cars do a fine job for this ? Craig ---------------- Greetings: Graphite will be messy, "bunch up" for lack of better term, on the rod, and possibly blow into the connections. John is right, a synthetic, bicycle oil will do it. Use a can of compressed air and clean out any dust. Rub the metal piece the arm rides on (not giving anyone a chance to say...) with a soft cloth first, aplly a little rub down again, then pu a light - very light coat on the top, it will spin to the bottom. Win dodger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Warren Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 for tonearms I use Apiezon L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyp Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 I would probably go with a bike lube called "Tri-Flow". I wouldn't use graphite on a turntable. Sometimes I lubricate small joints and surfaces with a little lube on a clean pin or needle. Don't know if Tri-Flow is a good lube for non-metallic surfaces. Holy Cow, John Warren , that lube may be the best but it ain't cheap: http://www.tedpella.com/vacuum_html/grease.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyKubicki Posted August 18, 2003 Author Share Posted August 18, 2003 Well, I found something called White Lightening at our bike shop and it is actually a self-cleaning wax lube. I put a little on and did not feel too good about the way it behaved, so I wiped it back off, prematurely perhaps. I found the noise was coming from the pulley area, and once I put a little WD-40 (just dabbed a paper towel and touched the shaft) it runs smooth. My concern was not so much whether a lube would work to reduce friction or not, for most any oil or silicone will. It was what will do the job without creating a bunch of residue. The gentleman I bought the cartridge from has been fixing B&Os for years. His answer was that he uses something Teflon based...we'll see. Thanks all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 There is a funny story behind my comment on lacquer thinner. One component is xylene. During the oil crisis of the 1970s, a chemical distributor filled up one of its tank trucks with xylene for delivery to a customer in the morning. During the night, someone stole the truck. In a few days it was found, empty. Just about then a large number of the cars in town developed engine trouble. Evidently the seals in the carburetors had started melting. They had all bought gas from one gas station. Things started unravelling. The xylene had, by less than legal means, gotten into the tanks at the gas station. There was at least one crimimal prosecution and a lot of engines got new carburetors. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Dumb Crooks! Andy, White lightening is not good. It's a wax with solvent that evaporates to a thick cushioning film. Great for gears and chains, but not your TT. If you can't find a light synthetic grease and want to use an oil with teflon, try Break Free. Gun stores and fishing tackle shops carry it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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