Daddy Dee Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 jorjen, Congrats. Great pics and super project. You have a very good HF planned, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meagain Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 Is it mandatory that the port holes be in the front? Or, would it still work with say - 1 port on each side or even in the rear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 21, 2006 Share Posted April 21, 2006 I think that it would work with ports in the back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted April 21, 2006 Author Share Posted April 21, 2006 The twins dropped in for a visit! No Thebes, not THE twins []. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted April 21, 2006 Author Share Posted April 21, 2006 Internal shot.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS Button Posted April 22, 2006 Share Posted April 22, 2006 Here he goes again....Jorgen How bout a big fat....drool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted April 22, 2006 Author Share Posted April 22, 2006 Hey BS, I Love this stuff man![]. Just could'nt leave it alone, could I? Well, so far it is turning out to be a very enjoyable project. One that I hope will turn out aesthetically pleasing and sonically delightful. I am shooting for a factory type end result or better. I am just starting to turn my attention to crossovers, placement, crossover access, wiring, bottom to top attachment, etc. I think I have come up with a really slick way of joining the top and bottom section electrically without any wires between either cabinet. I may try it. The guy that did the CNC work for me is going to be able to do my grille frames(1/8" to 3/16" tempered board/masonite like factory)for the top and bottom sections as well, based on setup already in the system for the motorboards. Just basically duplicates in a different material. This CNC thing is absolutely awesome. From the suggestions/ideas of Bob in his earlier post, the motorboards for the top section will have horn holes cut, mounting holes punched and inset reliefs cut to outside horn dimensions which will allow for flush front mounting of the squawker and tweeter horn, just as the woofer. This will all add up to an end result that should have no resemblance whatsoever to a "homemade" product. That is my goal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted April 22, 2006 Share Posted April 22, 2006 They are coming along great... keep us posted. The collar treatment should produce a pretty attractive / familiar look. I agree with you that it'll have a real "factory" look. I'm planning a single unit myself... but my aesthetics will also be different, in an attempt to keep the total height to a minimum. After all, the purpose of DIY is to build a unit which best suits our individual needs. ROb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted April 22, 2006 Author Share Posted April 22, 2006 Sounds cool Rob. Fun, eh? Any pics yet? You know how we all lust after photos man.[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted April 22, 2006 Share Posted April 22, 2006 Any pics yet? No pictures yet, as I haven't started it... although i did put part of it down on paper. It's total exterior dimensions will be about 30" high and 30" wide... and whatever depth I need once I adjust for blocking and the like. To keep the size down, I'll be using the rear volume of the HF enclosure similar to a Cornwall... rathar than the LaScala. I've been busy building a new room for all of it, including a IB subwoofer manifold which includes a recess to squeeze this Cornscala centre into. It promises to be interesting. IB subwoofer manifold picture There is a full thread on my "Formica's Audio / HT room... the construction" in the architectural forum... ROb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted April 22, 2006 Author Share Posted April 22, 2006 Yes, sorry, how could I forget that was you. I have been following that thread with great admiration(with a little drooling here and there thrown in for good measure)[]. Very, very nice work and I bet the theater is going to kick some serious azz! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted April 28, 2006 Author Share Posted April 28, 2006 Overall height of 41". Using risers and a taller top section I was able to get the Squawker/tweeter up a little higher which was one objective. Also, I wanted a taller baffle board so that I could use the K-400/401, Trachorn, Pyle, etc. I will have other baffle boards made to fit these other horns so that they can be easliy interchanged by unscrewing the baffle board from the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted April 28, 2006 Author Share Posted April 28, 2006 Another.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted April 28, 2006 Author Share Posted April 28, 2006 One more for now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 Nice. Are these decorator or not? I am assuming they will be as you say you will take the back off the top section to exchange horns. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 hey, what do you use for these mounting brackets...what kinda wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhendrix Posted April 28, 2006 Share Posted April 28, 2006 jc, Poplar works well for interior bracing and screw blocks. It is close-grained and strong for holding screws and does not split easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted April 28, 2006 Author Share Posted April 28, 2006 JC, Just ripped some 3/4" x 3/4" strips off the sheets of Russian Birch I was cutting up. Normally I like to use a dense, strong hardwood like Maple or Oak. I should have done it with these since the top section backs and baffles will be removable. Hopefully I will not take them off too often. If I do, I guess there are always bigger screws[]. These will not be Decorators. They will be fully veneered and have grilles that attach just like the Cornwall grilles. The Cornwall's that I previously refurbished turned out so nice that I am leaning towards Tung Oiled Flat Cut(or maybe something a little more curly)Cherry with brown grilles. I am still fighting with the soft spot I have for Rosewood and black grilles though. I think I am starting to realize that I am a Rosewood Freak![]. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted April 29, 2006 Share Posted April 29, 2006 Jordan Have you figured out yet that Rosewood ansd it's relatives are not good candidates for iron-on or contact cement? The wood is just too oily, bubbling and delam are likely. Wiping down the back with acetone or lacquer thinner doesn't really help as the wood continues to leach out oil over time. Apparently, the only reliable method is vacuum bagging, still requires the cleaning. I guess using the paper-backed variety is a way around it, but I"ve never used that stuff. The wood is so thin on that stuff I'd be afraid of sanding through it or something. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted April 29, 2006 Author Share Posted April 29, 2006 Hey Tom, Yes, I had some trouble with it about fifteen years ago on a cigar humidor I made. I have been very cautious since then. I used paper backed Rosewood veneer on the Khorns for that very reason. Fortunately it usually does not require too much sanding. A quick once over with 220 on a palm sander and voila! They turned out pretty nice. All the large, flat surfaces got it. Edgebanded with real wood veneer. I have used the Titebond iron on method and Weldwood and have decided I prefer the contact adhesive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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