rplace Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 In reading several post about pipe insulation and the like to seal your khorns to the wall I have always wondered if older models have nothing or if they are like mine and people find pipe insulation works better. Of the few sets of khorns I have heard, mine are the only ones I have ever seen out from the wall. My not so old and not so new 1987s have what looks to be like a door's weather stripping or automotive gasket mounted on the tail board. It is a concoction of flexible metal covered in rubber that over time has made marks on my wall. These marks tell me that it is doing it's job sealing things. So what gives are you guys just going that extra measure, or do different years of khorns come with different (some none) methods of sealing the speaker into the wall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 Generally speaking, Khorns should go on the floor, not the sealing (I am avoiding correcting your spelling, to make you feel better). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 OK, enough of me being a smarta$$. For a while, at least... I use that foam pipe insulation. To be honest, I don't know if it has made much of a difference in my situation. It certainly hasn't hurt! To my knowledge, it'll work with any Khorn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted May 1, 2006 Author Share Posted May 1, 2006 Fini, what year are yours? Did they have any sort of gasket/sealing mechnism on them or was it just the tailboard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 1977 walnut oil. Just a tailboard. I ran the insulation up the tailboard, and horizontally along the top of the bass bin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymd Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 My '76s came bare so I used some 1" wide, 1/4"(?) thick pre-glued (peel-off) door insulation that I attached to each side of the back of the tailboard. Seems to work great. I wanted something thicker and wider than the pipe insulation because my walls aren't exactly square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 My 1982 K-Horns did not have seals. I have since constructed/installed some using pipe foam. Some day I will borrow a mic and do some with-and-without measurements. Good Luck, -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 My '77s came bare with instructions for stapling rug runner to the tailboard. I had that on there for about twenty years until it became brittle. I now have the pipe insulation around the opening. Because of baseboard heat, I have a piece of 2" ethrafoam between the tailboard and the corner, cut to fit, and 2x2" foam to seal the top of the bass bin. Using that method, the bass is as good as it gets.[H] Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arfz28 Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 I have 84 k-horns I bought them new and for some reason they never came with anything on them too seal the tail piece. So I used 3/8" pipe insulation works perfect no glue needed, I did the tail pieces and the top of the bass bin section. Made a big diffence in the bass department for me. If your k-horns or not sealed too the walls you are most likely losing out on some bass, it was a night and day difference on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverSport Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 People PLEASE!!! Photos for the artistically challenged...Bill[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleJ Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 I have '78 K-Horns and used 3/8" pipe insulation like arfz28. It fits nice and snug on the tailboard, w/o any glue, nails, etc. I haven't sealed the top section..So, am I losing out on anything by not sealing it? JJ P.S. Arf: That Scott walnut cabinet you made for me looks and works great!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott0527 Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 In kind of a hurry but I had some scans from past Klipsch manuals. I think Klipsch started including a seal some time in the 90's which you can see on the recent manual. The other manual is from early 70's I think. They they show the vinyl floor mat process of sealing. If you have dial up you might want to move on... Sealing.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted May 1, 2006 Share Posted May 1, 2006 WOW!! 3.5Megs that is a rather large upside down file. Here is what I've got from my instruction sheet: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott0527 Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 WOW!! 3.5Megs that is a rather large upside down file. Here is what I've got from my instruction sheet: It is large and upside down, but if you got a extra 20-30 seconds, it's in nice pdf format so you can print it, save it, or line your hamster cage with it. On the newer Klipshorn manual, notice the nice custom extruded piece they included for tailboard sealing. I wonder if that's available from Klipsch parts. I recall from an old thread that is isn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted May 2, 2006 Author Share Posted May 2, 2006 Scott, Thanks for the .pdf. The neoprene gizmo looks exactly like what I have on my 1987 khorns. I am the 2nd owner and knowing the original owner there is no way he put that on after the fact. So what is the prevailing thoughts, am better or worse then the pipe insulation or it any seal good as long as it is sealed. Anyone remember the joke about the penguin getting his car worked on? Mechanic says it looks like you blew a seal, the penguin says???...check the link...Oh, it never gets old. []http://viral.lycos.co.uk/attachments/1675/MonkeyJoke.wmv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymd Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 What Rick posted is exactly what I did. I had no idea Klipsch ever suggested anything but pipe foam. I didn't need staples since it was the peel-off sticky door sealer insulation. I highly suggest this method if your corners are not square. You can get it as thick or as wide as you need from the Depot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryC Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 I have some unused pipe insulation if you want to try it. I have the rubber flaps, have never critically compared them with pipe foam, and what you describe would be sufficient sealing for me. My $0.02. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lostinozz Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 garymd wrote: What Rick posted is exactly what I did. You blew a seal?!!? Sorry, just couldn't pass that one up. I know, it's pretty sad for a first post[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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