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Deang

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Shawn:

"When they don't have to drive caps and coils they sound even better and effectively have much more available power since they are band limited and each driver is run at their actual sensitivity. No power wasted through padding down drivers to match sensitivities"

Although somewhat different, I think what you have said is very much part of the reason that some single, full-range drivers can sound as good as they do. I guess I mentioned to you that the Lowther horns were a very, very good match with the Teac amps. I hadn't experimented with the Lowthers as the main L/R channel speakers, but the Klipschorns have been down as I get those crossover modifications done and the new tweeters installed. The Lowthers don't have the sheer dynamic impact of the Klipschorns (not even close, really), but there is something at once very natural and appealing to me about them. As I said I thought about selling them, but I am really glad I didn't!

In the meantime, I bought some 12AWG Teflon insulated, silver plated strandeded wire (150ft for $10.00 + shipping!) and have made a twisted pair of speaker cable that is going to be further reinforced using that sort of old-school wire-dress lashing technique I mentioned. I can practice that technique on the cables, and then use it to dress the leads in this new pair of 6L6 monoblocks I'm going to start on in a couple of weeks (when I'm strong enough to pick up a power transformer!)

Dean: Good luck with your project. As you said, things can always be changed back to what they were if what was in mind just doesn't work out for some reason.

Erik

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What's going on? Right now, nothing -- I need more money. I would like to try triamping with active crossovers -- I just want to see what it brings to the table. While I'm at it, I want to investigate time delay, and what it brings to the table. I've said this plenty, but no one can tell you what something sounds like -- you just have to try it.

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What's going on? Right now, nothing -- I need more money. I would like to try triamping with active crossovers -- I just want to see what it brings to the table. While I'm at it, I want to investigate time delay, and what it brings to the table. I've said this plenty, but no one can tell you what something sounds like -- you just have to try it.

Dean,

I thought you told me not to try this - "Tubes don't like it" - When I mentioned Bi-amping to you.

So how should I hook up my amps to my modifed type "A" ?[H]

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Hi Kevin, I'm not going to try what I told you not to do. What you wanted to try was passive biamping -- using your Type A's, but splitting the network so you can push the woofers with one SET amp, while you push the Mids and tweets with another SET amp. What I want to try is using an active, or electronic crossover/dsp -- and three amplifiers. In passive bi-amping, the network is still after the amplifer. With active triamping -- the crossovers are before the amplifiers -- and the amplifers are connected directly the dirvers with nothing in-between.

You can try passive biamping if you want, but I think you'll end up preferring it the other way (normal). All you have to do is separate your HP and LP sections of your Type A. If your not sure how to do that I'll post a pic later tonight after Deb gets back.

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Hi Kevin, I'm not going to try what I told you not to do. What you wanted to try was passive biamping -- using your Type A's, but splitting the network so you can push the woofers with one SET amp, while you push the Mids and tweets with another SET amp. What I want to try is using an active, or electronic crossover/dsp -- and three amplifiers. In passive bi-amping, the network is still after the amplifer. With active triamping -- the crossovers are before the amplifiers -- and the amplifers are connected directly the dirvers with nothing in-between.

You can try passive biamping if you want, but I think you'll end up preferring it the other way (normal). All you have to do is separate your HP and LP sections of your Type A. If your not sure how to do that I'll post a pic later tonight after Deb gets back.

Dean,

If it is still available, I know where there is an Ashley 4001 Active for sale. No time delay though.

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Hi Kevin, I'm not going to try what I told you not to do. What you wanted to try was passive biamping -- using your Type A's, but splitting the network so you can push the woofers with one SET amp, while you push the Mids and tweets with another SET amp. What I want to try is using an active, or electronic crossover/dsp -- and three amplifiers. In passive bi-amping, the network is still after the amplifer. With active triamping -- the crossovers are before the amplifiers -- and the amplifers are connected directly the dirvers with nothing in-between.

You can try passive biamping if you want, but I think you'll end up preferring it the other way (normal). All you have to do is separate your HP and LP sections of your Type A. If your not sure how to do that I'll post a pic later tonight after Deb gets back.

Dean,

I am Bi-Amping using Passive Marchand crossovers between the pre and amp. 300B Set for mid and highs and Crown SS for woofers and it is awesome. If you buy the kits they are very reasonable. I have thied the active rout several time but was never happy with what it did to the mid tone.

Rigma

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Hi Kevin, I'm not going to try what I told you not to do. What you wanted to try was passive biamping -- using your Type A's, but splitting the network so you can push the woofers with one SET amp, while you push the Mids and tweets with another SET amp. What I want to try is using an active, or electronic crossover/dsp -- and three amplifiers. In passive bi-amping, the network is still after the amplifer. With active triamping -- the crossovers are before the amplifiers -- and the amplifers are connected directly the dirvers with nothing in-between.

You can try passive biamping if you want, but I think you'll end up preferring it the other way (normal). All you have to do is separate your HP and LP sections of your Type A. If your not sure how to do that I'll post a pic later tonight after Deb gets back.

Dean,

I am Bi-Amping using Passive Marchand crossovers between the pre and amp. 300B Set for mid and highs and Crown SS for woofers and it is awesome. If you buy the kits they are very reasonable. I have thied the active rout several time but was never happy with what it did to the mid tone.

Rigma

Rigma,

Which speakers do you have and what Crown amp are you using for the woofers?

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Hi Kevin, I'm not going to try what I told you not to do. What you wanted to try was passive biamping -- using your Type A's, but splitting the network so you can push the woofers with one SET amp, while you push the Mids and tweets with another SET amp. What I want to try is using an active, or electronic crossover/dsp -- and three amplifiers. In passive bi-amping, the network is still after the amplifer. With active triamping -- the crossovers are before the amplifiers -- and the amplifers are connected directly the dirvers with nothing in-between.

You can try passive biamping if you want, but I think you'll end up preferring it the other way (normal). All you have to do is separate your HP and LP sections of your Type A. If your not sure how to do that I'll post a pic later tonight after Deb gets back.

A picture would be nice! - Thanks Dean! - I can try it out pretty easy since I allready have all the gear. And most of it is already hooked up. I ran extra speaker wires when I redid my room in anticipation of trying this.

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I won't have time tonight to do anything for you -- it'll have to wait until tomorrow. In the meantime, read through this thread.

http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/1/302886/ShowThread.aspx

I read through this thread and it probably scared me. The only thing I learned was that you were 'tubinhard' - I knew it was a shill, but suspected it was someone other than you.

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Hi Kevin, I'm not going to try what I told you not to do. What you wanted to try was passive biamping -- using your Type A's, but splitting the network so you can push the woofers with one SET amp, while you push the Mids and tweets with another SET amp. What I want to try is using an active, or electronic crossover/dsp -- and three amplifiers. In passive bi-amping, the network is still after the amplifer. With active triamping -- the crossovers are before the amplifiers -- and the amplifers are connected directly the dirvers with nothing in-between.

You can try passive biamping if you want, but I think you'll end up preferring it the other way (normal). All you have to do is separate your HP and LP sections of your Type A. If your not sure how to do that I'll post a pic later tonight after Deb gets back.

Dean,

I am Bi-Amping using Passive Marchand crossovers between the pre and amp. 300B Set for mid and highs and Crown SS for woofers and it is awesome. If you buy the kits they are very reasonable. I have thied the active rout several time but was never happy with what it did to the mid tone.

Rigma

Rigma,

Which speakers do you have and what Crown amp are you using for the woofers?

tigerwoodKhorns,

I am using Klipschorns and (2) Crown D150A Series II in mono for the woofers.

Rigma

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