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POLL: Fun with bias/voltage meters? What is your wall voltage?


meagain

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Craig, input voltage display on the front normally shows 125v, and I did measure once after we talked and the meter showed 120.6v. Only twice since I've owned it have I seen the input voltage display go to 130v (around midnight). It wouldn't surprise me if it bumps up most nights after I crash. Next time it hits 130v I'll take a reading and see what it is. I still think these things are a good idea, especially in an area like mine where every low pressure system that moves through has the lights flickering.

Furman manual: http://www.furmansound.com/pdf/manuals/AR-1215_manual.pdf

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That would be great if you did that Dean! I'll read the manual. Will have to figure out the difference between AR-1215 vs. AR-20. The SPR-20 i has a cool blue meter but is expensive and new so there's no used ones around yet. Heading to Home Depot to search for some meters. I shall be back - till then thanks much everyone!!!!! :) Who knew?

Maybe there are those reading that will avoid a house fire now huh?

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Shawn, Nice clock. Looks like they may have hooked up with Machine Dynamica (clever little clock) and added a wall wart. [:D]

Lisa, Valve Arts in VRDs. Have tried JJs for a while went back to VA. In the Jolida EH sounds really good. I have others I haven't tried yet. The epiphamy about the JD100 is that if you don't buy it with the expensive upgrades it is a rip off for $796.00 (what I paid)...no better than a typical $200 -$300 player...of which I have run side by side comparisons and proven this. My SONY 222 is every bit as clean and crisp I called Jolida and talked to the technicains....got a schematic and I know what to upgrade now. I'll be doing that. Underwood HiFi charges $1,100 for the upgrades and I can do them myself for under $400. Simple component replacements on the 2 PC boards.

When JC came to my house his AH absolutely embarassed the Jolida by a tremendous margin. JC has the AH with all the upgrades. That is the VERY BEST CD player I ever heard. I doubt the JD100 could ever sound that good because there is no upsampler option which I believe makes all the difference.

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I got mine with used with the Level 1 Underwood mod. Have you heard it to compare to stock? I got Amperex Bugle Boys with it and Craig is saying at least one? is pretty wore out. :( Now I'm lost. Will have to surf around to see if there's a stand out. I think Carl has one? and I asked him - it's on his gear pictoral type thread. Wow on the Ah!

I replaced my 20 amp fuse with a 15. So far so good but I need to turn more stuff on.

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Yea Dean check that for her would you. The manufacturer is surely lying.

Craig,

Not that I expect the Furman to not do what is claimed... but....

in this industry with all the vodoo snake oil BS that is out there it never hurts to verify something. Esp. something that is very easily checked.

For example.... I still think this would solve all of Lisa's electrical problems. ;)

Shawn

I agree that would cure the problem for sure in this case [;)]

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Craig,

"No this is not a help at all!! Its a sign that your circuit is over loaded. "

Maybe, but it could also be a sign she has a bad connection somewhere in the chain. If she had a high resistance connection (corroded/loose) the resistance would act as a current limiter. Voltage would be relatively normal but when loaded up past that point it could drop. The way to see if this is occurring is to check voltage levels as close to the fuse panel as possible and at the end of the chain on the same circuit. If there is a big difference she has a problem in the wiring.

Totally agree about having pumps and so on on the same circuit.

Shawn

Yup your correct. It's funny I think Chitown has an electical desease (lack of licensing and inspectors maybe). When we had a get together at Smillin's house we tried to have two systems setup. The second system in a different room refused to work normally. The amps would bias and the wall voltage was fairly stable and as expected but soon after turning the system on and trying to play a CD the sound was horrible and the CD seemed to play slow!! I fought these gremlins for a few hours until Smillins wife came home and announced that she can't even run her vacumn to clean the carpets off the outlets in that room. We moved the system to another spot and never got it to work properly on those outlets either. The only outlets that we tried that worked properly were the new ones installed for his home theater setup.

Craig

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"Yes, it does sound like no ground. The black wires are hot, white
is neutral. You have four wires because basically there are other
things on that circuit tied off of that outlet. That is very common.

If you have a bare wire in the box that would connect to possibly a green screw on the outlet that would be your ground wire."

Forgot to mention... if you have conduit or armored cable running through your walls to all outlets and such you could be getting a ground through that.

Shawn

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Lisa,
If you haven't run off to HD yet, the little outlet testers have LEDs on them and indicate if the outlets are wired properly, and show what the errors in wiring are if they are screwed up. I have had one for years and checked all the outlets in my house before I bought it. One of the best investments I've made, and it was cheap. They all checked out ok.

I can't believe Illinois doesn't have the bases covered. You would think more like Mississippi or Alabama [:#]

Bruce

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Marvel - I bought one of those. Some outlets are grounded (reads "correct"), some are not (like the one I just tested in my listening room) (says "open ground"). Some outlets around here are 2-prong and IDK if a cheater plug added to this gadget effects anything. I couldn't find a meter that measures watts. I fear I'll be over the edge with it so I'll have to run a strip to a good outlet.

I've not blown the 15a fuse yet. But that's with no amps and no CDP.

I find the Illinois thing a bit hard to believe myself, but perhaps it's up to the towns.

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"Some outlets around here are 2-prong and IDK if a cheater plug added to this gadget effects anything. "

Cheater plugs used wrong get rid of a ground. Cheater plugs used correctly can *add* a ground. The little metal lug on the cheater plug can be wired to a ground point. When you do that and plug something into the cheater plug it will have a ground.

Shawn

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Marvel - I bought one of those.   Some outlets are grounded (reads "correct"), some are not (like the one I just tested in my listening room) (says "open ground").   Some outlets around here are 2-prong and IDK if a cheater plug added to this gadget effects anything.   I couldn't find a meter that measures watts.   I fear I'll be over the edge with it so I'll have to run a strip to a good outlet. 

I've not blown the 15a fuse yet.  But that's with no amps and no CDP. 

I find the Illinois thing a bit hard to believe myself, but perhaps it's up to the towns. 

That's correct. The Villages, Cities, Towns, and Counties set the codes there is no State Code. The Electricians Union does do some certification but not the State. In other words you can be licensed, but the State doesn't do it.
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I got mine with used with the Level 1 Underwood mod. Have you heard it to compare to stock? I got Amperex Bugle Boys with it and Craig is saying at least one? is pretty wore out. :( Now I'm lost. Will have to surf around to see if there's a stand out. I think Carl has one? and I asked him - it's on his gear pictoral type thread. Wow on the Ah!

I replaced my 20 amp fuse with a 15. So far so good but I need to turn more stuff on.

The level 1 Underwood mod is a substantial change of components....recommended to me by the Jolida techs as well. I would bet that your player sounds much better than a stock version (like mine).

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Lisa,

The watt meter might be hard to find. The way I mentioned earlier will work. Get a clamp on ammeter. It will look like your normal digital multimeter, but have a clamp on one end that is spring loaded. You open it up and place around one (1) of the wires in your circuit. If you are VERY careful, you can take a short extension cord, use an exacto knife and remove the outer covering (like the orange or yellow vinyl), about six inches. pull apart the three wires inside, double checking to make sure you didn't nick the insulation anywhere. You can then place the clamp around one of the wires. Plug in an amplifier or what ever and you will get a reading of the current the amp is using. Multiply times the voltage and you have the watts. An electrician might do that same thing at the breaker box, and could tell the load/watts on an entire circuit at once. I don't advise you trying that.

The other way is to wire up some leads to your multimeter and actually place it IN the circuit. More dangerous and not nearly as convenient.

I've attached a picture of one, that runs about $80. You can probably find more fragile ones much less expensive. They go a lot higher too.

post-7149-13819330554114_thumb.jpg

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Here's another tip for you Lisa. Take notes. Right all this stuff down. If you don't, you'll come back in a month and ask how to do it all over again. Happens all the time with folks, and there's lots of good information in this one thread alone. (I have saved tons of stuff that djk has posted, some gleaned from here, some from emails he sent me and some from the AK forums)

Bruce

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Gentlemen, may I request we refrain from suggesting to Meagain any more potentially dangerous high voltage testing procedures.

She clear knows little about electricity but she is very sharp, let's help her stay that way.

Walking down the street is potentially dangerous, as are many things in this life. She has already been playing with the fuses. Making an adapter to use so you can safely measure the current a device is using requires caution, but it isn't necessarily dangerous.

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