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meagain

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How was the cam sprocket and chain broken? They should have lasted for about 120k miles. 77, 78 79's had bad cams which I believe was a "beat the hell out of GM" waranty. And they started painting the engines blue (77--), then black to mean that it was a GM engine made in a GM plant somewhere. Remember the Olsmobile's with Chevrolet engines? If you drove the car in the winter full time your calipers would last 8 years (even stainless) and the frame would rust through right at the front of the back wheel well and break in two but the fibrelgass body would actually hold the car together. Yeah, I used to restore Corvettes, every nut and bolt. And I had a 78 with four studded Mohawk snow tires and that baby could track and beat most anybody on a snow coverd road. I could be going 50 mph on an ice covered road, floor it, the rear would start to skid sideways then let off the gas and it would straighten out by itself. Never had anything that would track like it did in the snow until the frame broke. I can still take one apart and re-assemble it blindfolded. Even got into painting them. (wouldn't wish that on my enemies)

JJK

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The chain didn't break, but it was quite stretched. The plastic overlay (to reduce noise?) on the cam gear's teeth broke apart, allowing the chain to skip a tooth or two, so the engine ran really badly. I was lucky to make it home and lucky I didn't bend any valves (maybe the base engine had really low-lift cams). The car probably had many more miles on it than showed on the odo, since I later had a Provincial Police (like State Troopers) Impala that I put 350k kilometres (about 220k miles) on that needed only a transmission and little else. A heavy-duty fun car.

The best Chevy I had was the 1990 Caprice police cruiser. It had the 5.7 litre engine, electronically-controlled 4-speed auto, fuel injection, bucket seats, and near 50/50 weight distribution, so it slid predictably and always landed on all four wheels, unlike the Impala that was a bit nose-heavy. Adding Bridgestone Potenza 630s helped, too.

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Sounds to me like the Vette had a heck of alot more miles then 64K on it..........

Had nothing to do with the miles... they are definitely accurate. It had more to do with the people who built the motor, or lack thereof. I had 2 different people work on this car. My labor bills totalled more than $12,000. The parts cost me another $22,000. This was in a 2 year period. When I first got it back it ran like a scalded dog. Dynoed at 415 to the rear wheel with 417 ft lb of torque. It pulled like a freight train from 3k rpm on up, stops on a dime (Wilwoods front and rear), and runs cool all day even when tracked for 30 minutes at a time (large oil cooler, Be-Cool rad, 3 qt accusump).

It just started running like total crap after my last track days at Sebring. And then shortly thereafter my tranny went. When that happened I had just had enough. I refused to put another dime into her, and have stuck to that for 2 years. Literally, it hasn't moved from my garage in that length of time. However, I will be getting it fixed by the end of summer, and will get it done right this time (probaly another $3K or $4K) and then will decide what to do with it.

Mike

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Driving on the track is expected to really use up parts in a hurry. I was just doing my daily driving, so that's why I was grumbling about it needing constant attention and money. It very likely was a high-miler, and I was on a low budget at the time. If I'd been making more money and had found a fresher example of a 'Vette, my experience could have been much happier.

To get back to the original post, welcome back, meagain! I hope you get your system sorted out soon.

When I did my JubScala conversion a couple of months ago, I had connection and noise issues that were really frustrating me. After three weeks of unsuccessful attempts to get some music out of it, I called in a pro audio tech, who took two hours to try various things, but it sounded great once he found the right combination and it's sounded great ever since.

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The car thing. Ouch. I went through about 8 car projects and never again. What a wasted youth (and money). Mostly Camaros and Vettes, but SS Chevelle, Jaguars and a few others, all with smal block and big block Chevys. Nothing but time and trouble.

I bought a pair of dirt bikes last summer for my wife and me. That is a fun hobby. I keep mine bone stock (Yamaha YZ 450F) and it has more power than I have the courage to use. I spend my time riding, not working on it. I wish that I had gotten into this 20+ years ago instead of cars (maybe not, I would have probbaly hurt myself).

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If you all want a good laugh, the following is a post I made on the Corvette Forum 4 years ago while my rebuild was in progress. It was in response to some guys wanting to go the stroker route, and wanted to do it on a budget (an oxymoron). They wanted to do it for $2K - $3K and some other posters said it would probably cost more. I then stepped in with my post.

Lisa, I apologize about this thread getting off track, but wanted to finish with this. You know I love you girl, and am glad you are back.

So here you all go...

The previous poster stating $11 - $12k is probably closer than anyone else on this. Unless you have been thru the agony of having this done you have no idea. I love reading these threads about how people plan on attaining 400hp (or whatever number) on a budget... well let me say right now good luck to you.

Machine work costs, if you want it B&B'd, well that costs too. 4 bolt mains cost... you better update that pan and pump while you're at it, which costs. Same for the bigger Racetronix fuel pump you'll need to get this monster the fuel it will now be consuming... yeah, that costs too. Don't forget to update that clutch to a McLeod twin disk (big money here) so it can handle the power you are going to be putting down to the ground... and you will need to replace all 6 of the u-joints (cold forged dana spicers) at the same time or they will be the first thing to go (cha-ching!)

When they pull the engine out and put it back in for you they forget some wiring hookups which cost, new sensors cost, all the gaskets cost... sometimes twice because of the 2nd teardown and rebuild. In my case I had to replace my coil, ecm, waterpump, o2 sensors, opti-spark and 30# FI's because they all ended up going bad during the rebuild. Let me say that that cost quite a lot.

And while the ecm took a crap on the engine dyno, it happened to wash down the rings on my brand new JE pistons. Well, this entailed buying new gas-ported pistons ($700), new rings (another $243), having the bores opened up another .010", the crank smoothed over and new bearings. Again, that was a very large hit to my wallet.

Then when it is all back together and you are trying to get it dialed in, you are going to be paying some pretty good cash for a good tune and dyno time. Figure on $500 there.

And if you think I'm kidding, think again. This is still going on with my rebuild from Hell. And this isn't everything. I have had to buy a 2nd set of 875 Lifters and pushrods because of a bad lifter caused by a pushrod going thru it. My original engine builder had me buy some solid roller lifters with longer pushrods ($480) because he didn't want the same thing to happen again. This is mated to a hydraulic roller cam mind you. But never fear, my second engine builder came to the rescue and said he wanted the hydraulic rollers back in there, and guess what? You guessed it... another $275.

So... before you go down this road, I strongly recommend you find a shop that is reputable and will stand behind their work. Otherwise, get ready for the ride of your life.

Now, if you are capable of doing all the work yourself, you better still be prepared for all the little things that are going to jump up and bite you in the ***. Don't say I didn't warn you.

Mike

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Mike Lindsey:

Amen. Ran an aftermarket L88 in 1967-68. #3 piston pin retainer broke and the pin moved out and into the side of the block reaking havoc and destruction. Pieces of forged piston and rings stuck in aluminum heads and intake manifold and oil pan and carbuerator. Rod bent, crank bent, #3 piston missing, valve guides fanned out like bananas, cam lobes wiped off, valves bent, pushrods bent. Very exciting.

PS: in 1967 an L-88 short block cost $587.00, aluminum heads $250.00.

JJK

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Engines all built are cheaper than building yourself ........... 383 stroker, only way to fly !!!!!!!!!!! ... I would never build an engine today, buy it all built ready to drop-in and run ....... check Hot Rod and Car Craft, look at the price of those engines, and they are guaranteed !!!!!!!

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I agree, ob, but I wanted certain parts in my shortblock. I could have gotten something very similar from Scoggin Dickey, and that is the way I should have gone in hindsight. When you go thru experiences like the one I did you learn greatly from it. If I was ever to go thru that again it would definitely be a guarenteed stroker already built. BTW, here are the parts in mine:

Callies Racemaster crank - 3.75" stroke
Oliver 6" forged rods - super light series (620 gm)
JE inverted dome gas ported pistons (23 degree). 043, .043, 3mm ring grooves and lateral gas ports (4.040")
JE file fit moly rings
Clevite 77 H-Series rod bearings
Clevite 77 H-Series main bearings
4-Bolt billet caps for 3 middle main caps
BLP billet front main strap
ARP main studs
Durabond cam bearings

Mine started out as a 383, but after the 2nd rebuild it is now a 385. I like the sound of 383 so much better...

Mike

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Engines all built are cheaper than building yourself ........... 383 stroker, only way to fly !!!!!!!!!!! ... I would never build an engine today, buy it all built ready to drop-in and run ....... check Hot Rod and Car Craft, look at the price of those engines, and they are guaranteed !!!!!!!


I agree with OB. Crate motors, put together with compatible parts by experts, run much better with less aggravation. With those "mix-n-match" engines, it seems like the customer is the (often very unhappy) tester, when all he wants is something fast and reliable.
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Engines all built are cheaper than building yourself ........... 383 stroker, only way to fly !!!!!!!!!!! ... I would never build an engine today, buy it all built ready to drop-in and run ....... check Hot Rod and Car Craft, look at the price of those engines, and they are guaranteed !!!!!!!

I love this analogy. Perfect.....

I spent a ton of money modifying speakers, in the early seventies. Different horn, drivers, woofers, etc. Then Klipsch came along with their Industrial Series. Since then I have not tried to "improve," my equipment. Rather, I now buy what works, right out of the box. I'm just not smart enought to improve products that are designed, manufactured and marketed by major corporations.

A man's got to know his limitations.

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Engines all built are cheaper than building yourself ........... 383 stroker, only way to fly !!!!!!!!!!! ... I would never build an engine today, buy it all built ready to drop-in and run ....... check Hot Rod and Car Craft, look at the price of those engines, and they are guaranteed !!!!!!!

I love this analogy. Perfect.....

I spent a ton of money modifying speakers, in the early seventies. Different horn, drivers, woofers, etc. Then Klipsch came along with their Industrial Series. Since then I have not tried to "improve," my equipment. Rather, I now buy what works, right out of the box. I'm just not smart enought to improve products that are designed, manufactured and marketed by major corporations.

A man's got to know his limitations.

That may be true, Bill, but you can definitely improve upon the sound of the original horns, drivers and crossovers in these speakers (including the industrials).

Mike

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