efzauner

NoNoNo.... just the center... as I said " you would connect up just the center terminals to your home theatre receiver" use same wire as your left and right...14 gauge is usually enough for most under 20 foot runs.. How far away is your receiver from your speakers?

why not just a stereo log potentiometer in a small box with rca jacks? I mean, that is what a volume control is. I could use one also to control my sub amp. the pots are in the rear and I don't want the kids to start mucking about in the HT receiver sub control. A simple pot in a box is all that is needed. There are some available if you google/ebay/amazon. The "passive" preamps are just that.. although often overpriced.

you could probably sell the HeresyII for twice the price of the Tangent 400... Not worth the effort to modify.... and yep a Forte would be even better as it uses a woofer that is better suited to a larger ported/passive radiator cabinet. Or a Chorus.

curious why you purchased the G42 to mate with the G28s . The G28s are stand alone speakers, usable in different positions. They need a simple center, Another G28 or G16 would have worked fine. the G42 has 3 independent speaker "systems" inside: a left, Right, and center. Each has its own terminals. So in order to use it just as a center, you would connect up just the center terminals to your home theatre receiver.

Eeek... using the KLF30 as subs? That may be the problem. While for most music material they will output gobs of bass, but LF channels on many movies have lots of low end below the 30-40 Hz port tuning on the KLF30s. Bellow the port resonance a ported woofer is uncontrolled and can easily exceed maximum excursion. Where you hooking them up to the LF output of your HT receiver via a power amp?

Since you have all the equipment why not experiment? But I would go with the Fortes mains and heresy center. Will you be getting an acoustically transparent screen? You could put the rs3s as side surround and the remaining pair of heresy in the rear positioned to also be used for 5.1 music material such as DVD audio or SACD. The synergies seem to be the odd pair out. As for 2 channel, well, if your denon 7.1 is up to it you may be perfectly happy. Most HT receivers will play straight stereo as well as expanded or other synthesized surround from stereo. You could get a phono preamp for it. Or use this stereo denon just as a preamp feeding your 7.1 denon. Initially I used my Sherbourne preamp with HT bypass feeding my Pioneer Elite. I also hooked up the big Bryston to drive the mains. Now I am just using the Pioneer SA9500 for stereo and I have a simple banana plug/jack setup to manually switch the main KLF20s to either the HT receiver or Stereo integrated amp. as for the SW12D to be honest it was hard to find, could not find that model on the klipsch or web archive site...but only on ebay If it is this one, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Octave-SW12D-Powered-12-Subwoofer-Home-Theater-Down-Firing-Sub-/332051405287?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275 then my feeling is that it will have a hard time to keep up with the Fortes. You may not need a sub with them!

Get both! I have an older pany 50 inch plasma and a 106 inch flip down AT screen I dont always want to turn down the lights. As for 4K, you may not need it. our eye angular resolution is not good enough unless you are like 8 feet away. But then you are bending your neck back so not really doable.

click on turn on and intermittent. Does not say much How intermittent? Working most of the time? Turns off at high signal levels? There are several active preamp, filter and over power protection circuits that are before the power amp module. The power amp module is the power supply and the amp combined. So without more info it is impossible to say. A bash amp is similar to the Carver Magnetic Field amps. They work by having a pulse width modulated power supply follow the input signal so that the standard A/B mode power amp does less work. The switching circuitry is complex. So trouble shooting could be as simple as finding and replacing some defective transistors or could be much more involved. I am an electrical engineer. I have built both audio power amps and preamps, and switching power supplies. I recently purchased an RSW15 dirt cheap with a defective amp. I have the thing running with an external amp, and will eventually attempt a repair. Considering that you can get an external amp like a Beringer I Nuke for a couple hundred bucks makes spending lots of $ on a repair kinda questionable.

Yep but you have to take the driver out. it is heavy..you need a torx driver. There are a few control and power cables that go to the amp. If the repair center does not have the rest of the circuitry and connectors that is on the panel, they may not be able to power it up. It may be only a simple intermittent connection somewhere and not the amp circuitry itself.

and this repair center does not have the initiative to find it themselves? If all they do is repair passive speakers then they may not be much help to fix this. Do they actually know what a BASH amp is? Can they repair switching power supplies? It took me like 5 minutes to find the service manual online. you are welcome... hfe_klipsch_rsw-15_service.pdf

I pondered that as well. I could have built a switch/relay box but that would have taken too long, So I just built a patch panel... On the bottom: HT receiver in from left. Vintage iron from right . Middle empty for future. Speaker wires on top!

I am not an idiot. Let me see Klipsch.com even if I am not in the USA! Give me a location choice! Stop assuming you are smarter than I am. Stop controlling what I see! There may be a reason beyond your comprehension why I don't just want to see Klipsch.ca! Yes I am a big Klipsch fan. Well, just a bit less of a fan now! Get it? Do what customers want, not what marketing wannabees want!

some bright marketing guy at Klipsch instructed IT to not let anyone outside the USA see the Klipsch.com site.. I get redirected to klipsch.ca where there are no specials. Thank you bright marketing boy. Think that was smart? You just pissed-off a big Klipsch fan! Do you track that? nooo... Idiot.

Thank you Derrick... I think I can manage ;-) I just hope the amp is not too non-fuctional... I hate fixing fuct stuff. Actually, reading over the service manual... The input section does have a 20Hz, 12db/octave HP. The PA has an overall power limiting circuit plus one specifically below 23 Hz, this I gather to control the unloaded woofer below PR resonance. I may try to salvage this board.

not sure of the 20 hz tuning. Most reviews rave about amazing musicality but sharp roll off under 30Hz. Either way I did good with a 15 inch driver, PR and a pretty cherry box for under US$150 to replace my home made 12 inch 4cuft ugly black monsters.

yep I could have told you that too, and more like ported subs drop at 24db/octave below tuning while sealed drop at 12db/octave and had I not known the answer I probably should not play be playing around with this sort of stuff. But as I said the RSW15 is not equalized. One would have to test it to determine the PR tuning and also make sure that since the woofer is unloaded below that to make sure the added EQ does not cause the woofer to exceed max excursion and bottom out! Have a great evening!

So I got the RSW15 and blown amp for cheap. The motor board was unglued so working to fix that first. Once that is done I can easily add direct speaker leads and use a 400 watt bridged crown Pro amp I have. Found schematic for the entire setup and no, there is no mention of any LF equalization. Just the input LPF/Gain stages. The woofer is 6 ohms. A repair was attempted by replacing an air inductor in the PWM power supply. Not to confident of the knowledge sellers "cousin" that tried to fix it. The seller admitted he purchased it for C$750, untested and was screwed. He was just licking his wounds and dumping it. Will keep you all updated!

why exactly?

these are made in the USA anyway.. there should not be any duites. There are hardly any duties at all left on us-canada stuff.. thanks to Nafta!

I will keep tabs on this. I may buy an RSW15 with blown amp as well... offered at $150 US near me. I already have a 400Watt rms rack amp... so it may be an easy connect if I cannot fix the bash amp. Will have a go at it.

yes correct. The passive radiator acts as a resonator just like the air in the box. The radiator can be tuned with weight and compliance more than the port can, plus it does not have port noise/port velocity issues. Some port lenghts also are quite long and difficult to implement, and take up box volume... So you can make a better, smaller sub with a Passive Radiator. And no mouse nests inside!

Hello I have a chance to buy an RSW15 with blown amp for real cheap. It would be simple for me to modify and just drive the sub with an external amp that I already have for my current DIY sub setup. . Anyone know if the internal plate amp has any sort of equalization to boost low frequency response or is it flat? Any one know internal driver impedance? 4 or 8 ohm? Thanks

not mine. but these are cheap ... less than $600 US! http://www.kijiji.ca/v-speakers/windsor-area-on/klipsch-loudspeakers/1210085101

fine, increased costs for industrial volume buyers maybe 10% according to my brief research. I doubt that list prices to consumer distribution channels where affected much and totally trivial when dealing with the price gouging by specialty audio cap suppliers.

Just input stereo L and R.. the receiver should have a switch to send the same L and R to the rear speakers amps. This should be a no brainer. Not sure if all of this is worth it. If it is a great amp then use it, but for some sort of synthesized surround, current HT receivers have a number of surround effects for stereo. Specs say 60wpc stereo, 40wpc into 4 channels. Seems it was a very complete quad receiver. lots of bells and whistles and looks cool. If this is your only vintage receiver and want to enjoy LPs and the vintage experience then go for it. Not going to be worth setting it up for quad. http://classicreceivers.com/pioneer-qx-949