lovemyhorns

Now I am not saying that you cannot go horribly wrong with amplification Maybe out of context, but I think you can go horribly wrong with amplification, especially with the very component revealing Heritage line of speakers. I went from a highly modded Phase Linear preamp and 200 watt McIntosh amp to an Onkyo HT receiver. Even my wife didn't like it! In all honesty, I don't think main line HT receivers can play music decently, although it was adequte for movies. But now I am back with the Phase Linear preamp and my newly acquired ASL Waves, and they sound better even on DVDs than the HT recevier. People actually sound like people. Can one go wrong with amplification? Damn straight one can. This is not to imply that amplification can hide a bad source, bad source cable, generic cables, etc... but amplification is that last active bastion between source and making the air move.

I am sure whatever you get, you will be very happy. The great thing about most tube equipment is the circuit topology is relatively simple and components can be very easily upgraded/updated.

I was looking at upgrading my AK-2 to an AK-3 and was looking at replacing that 13uF cap also, should it be replaced with a 13uF or would a 12uF with a 1uF be better??

Yes, I posted the lin before I read the whole thing. It starts out with a good premise but then fizzles and doesn't say too much.

I put up that link to the indulgent audiophile and looked further into the other hi-end systems in that ring. I found this article re: Khorns. Just thought I would share

excessive indulgence? Wonder what it sounds like? LINK

Oddly, on my AK-2 crossover, off of the tweeter (+) connection where that 2uF cap and 500uH go to tweeter (-) my cap and coil are opposite of the scematic (the cap goes to tweeter (+) and the coil goes to tweeter (-) Does this present a problem??

Theoretically, let's see... what's the RF7's efficiency 102db w/1watt(?), so that would be 112db w/10 watts and 115db w/20 watts. For casual, residential indoor use, that's loud. Of course, ear shattering 125db would take 200 watts. The above is, of course, theoretical, your results may vary.

Oddly enough, I have my K-horn brouchure from the early-mid 80s and "lamp cord" is what was recommeded for speaker wire!

There's always Stereophiles 'A' recommended complete system: Cello Music & Film System: ~$ 110 000 : comprises Cello Audio Palette MIV equalizer ($22000), Cello Encore line preamp ($8500), Cello Performance II monoblock ($25000/ pair), Cello Stradivari Master loudspeakers ($32000-35000/ pair), Cello Strings I interconnects ($630/ 2m pair terminated with Fischer connectors), Cello Strings III speaker cable ($2000/ 3m tri-wire harness), CMFS/Apogee Series 8.1 D/A processor ($7 000), Apogee Wide-Eye AES/EBU datalink ($28.95/ 1m), Forsell Air Bearing Mk. II CD transport ($8900)

Yugo

What of the quality of paper in oil caps for replacing the 2uF caps in the Khorn xover, will any work? For instance these? Just curious...

Looks like you did a really good job! Looks real professional-like

TWO (2)

I will also add that I used to have an MC2200 and it was a great amp also and drove my Khorns wonderously (is that a word? ) McIntosh equipment is built very well and would have no problems purchasing a used, recertified unit (like I did with my 2200 years ago)

I think much of the tube stereotyping is because tubes are thought of as polite, slow and lacking bass slam, which may be the case depending on type & circuit design, just like some SS gear is ear-ripping bright and grainy with uncontroled booming bass. It is still a mattter of combining the right gear, speakers, room & ears.

Try opening up the broken device (it's already broken, can;t do much more damage...) and see if there are any internal fuses or burnt components, might be a simple fix that way.

My first higher dollar speakers, not necessarily good, were Bournagolis (sp? help me out here if anybody knows what I am talking about), they were panel speakers made of some sort of styrofoam and had little hammers that caused the foam to resonate at the various frequencies, quite bizarre actually. They imaged well and sounded great at low volumes. I had them for about a month before I broke them... I traded them in on my Khorns

Here is a stress test and it takes only about 5 seconds to take. http://webpages.charter.net/hkirtley/stress/ Stress Test

Hello, Has anybody tried the Antique Sound Lab Wave AV8 8-watt tube monoblocks that cost $99 a pop?? If not, how about any other ASL amps? What's the sound like? tia, Jeff

Here's my turntable (taken with a cheap (FREE!) camera.

1. What Heritage speakers have you owned, currently own, or want to own? I own the legendary Klipschorns!! 2. What was your age when you first purchased a Heritage series loudspeaker? I was 21 3. What is your current age? I am 39 4. Why did you choose Heritage loudspeakers over another Klipsch model? It was a toss-up between the Khorns and the Cornwalls... Overall, I thought the Khorns had the better sound. 5. If you currently own some Heritage loudspeakers, and could purchase some more Klipsch speakers(new or used), which ones would you purchase? Why? I almost bought a pair of MCM Grands, but decided the woofer sections were just a tad big for the living room. If I had to do it all over again, I'd get the Klipschorns. 6. Do you think the upcoming Jubilee should become part of the "Heritage" line, since it was also designed by PWK? Yes. Thanks for your responses!!

You should be able to find a decent Thorens at that price level on ebay.

Is there any explanation of "hole flow", that is from positive to negative from where ever you got the info?

I'm thinking about going back to seperates, the A/V receiver just isn;t cutting it (even my wife complains about it). Previously I had a McIntosh 2200 and it sounded good, but I really don;t want another 100 pound amp. Some I am thinking about are the McIntosh 2100/2105, the PS Audio 200c or if I am feeling especially motivated I was thinking about DIY a Williamson ultralinear PP using 6550/KT88 for 60 watts, but I fear I may loose my bass slam and mid-bass punch. At one time I had a 120 w/ch Phase Linear hooked up to the Khorns, soundstaging was weak and it was a little bright and I thought the mids totally sucked. Personally, I wouldn;t do a Phase Linear/Carver again, even if they are cheap. I do admit that I have a Phase Linear P3800 preamp (post-Carver) that I modified. It may be replaced also.