Deang

Dave, I think the Jon Risch design you are thinking of are these: http://www.diycable.com/catalog/products/ic_fat_ones.htm You can find all of Jon Risch's stuff here: http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/index2.htm I do believe that since you have already invested in the tools, you might think about cranking things up a notch. Why not get a batch of the Belden 89259? The consensus certainly seems to be the teflon foam dialetric is the way to go. You can get 89259 from www.diycable.com for $2.50 a foot. If you were willing to do this, I would certainly be willing to buy several from you.

"Maybe they're too busy flogging the RF series which are not even nearly as close to the performance of the Heritage line of speakers. (price usually dictates that difference)." Bull$hit... ...and as I said in another post: With the exception of the cabinet dimensions, exterior finishes, and the slightly different x-over points in the Scalas -- all three larger Heritage models are identical. Until recently, a pair of Scalas and a pair of RF7's were separated by only $600. Even with the price increase of this past year, I would say the only two reasons for the difference in prices between the RF7 and the larger Heritage is the labor involved in making the cabinets, and the additional crossover components needed to support the third driver. My point is that in order to make a fair comparison between the bigger Heritage models and Reference -- the comparison should be made with the RF7's. I believe the RF7's compete head on in many ways. They put out 75 to 80 percent of the macro-dynamic ability They put out 110 percent of the micro-dynamic ability They deliver a smoother frequency response (as opposed to peaky) They deliver a stable and wide image (as opposed to beamy) The upper treble is practically flawless (as opposed to "grating") They are easier to place which aids in proper integration with the listening room The cones in the RF7 are fabulous. I see no problem with letting the cones handle the fundamentals, and the horn handling the harmonics -- it works.

Egads! 900 wpc per channel with a dummy load on the terminals at 1000Hz. Put a real load on it and chokes itself to death. C'mon man, it's made by Cerwin Vega! They probably left parts out of the circuit so they could sell it for next to nothing. Lynmm may have a point though. You should check it out.

last one next time I'm using Justin

again

next

Heck, I didn't know what else to name the topic, since I'm not quite done yet. Certainly getting closer though. I had new baffles cut, and I still need to sand, prime, and paint them. Build the other crossover, and that's it. Then keep my fingers crossed and hope it works! Can't attach multiple files, so I guess I'll have to submit each pic with an individual post.

Jeesh Lynmm, are you going soft on us? I say that system, in that room -- is a complete waste. Like, why did he even bother!

Careful you don't miss the forest for the trees. I own a two story house with a full, finished basement. I'm tired of climbing stairs:) It's just one of those things you don't think about when you buy a house. A full, finished basement would be the simplest solution for controlling sound from the outside. It's also best for controlling light. The downside is that all of the mechanical related stuff is in the basement (HVAC, washer and dryer, etc.) It would be relatively easy to stand up some well insulated walls around the mechanics (basically a "room") -- to isolate the noise. New construction will give you a very dry basement. Older construction may offer some problems here. Opt for New Construction, with 4000psi concrete for the concrete. Make sure you see them pressure test it. Go for brick. Always. The alternative is a larger house built on slab that has a large "family" room. Most modern houses have a "Great Room" or family room. The modern day "Great Rooms" have cathedral ceilings, which are pretty cool. The problem here is plenty of glass. I think it would be close to impossible to achieve total darkness with these type rooms. Even houses built in the 70's and 80's will typically have at least a patio door with glass. You may have to look long and hard to find a house with the right room. The upside is that when you find this house, there is a good chance you will end up liking the rest of the house as well. You need to decide if you want to go with "spaciousness" or "cozy-ness". I would try to strike a balance here. "Six people", and I see six Lazy Boy recliners. Maybe two reclining type loveseats (for couples), and two recliners. I would elevate the second row of seats. You mentioned HVAC: You're only going to have control over this if you go with new construction. Modding an already built house is a bear. If you wanted to increase the output of the HVAC to accomodate the HT room, then you not only need to put in a bigger outside unit, but the inside unit needs to be increased in size as well (air handler and coil). You then need to add the additional ductwork to accomodate the increase in output. It can get very expensive. Also, you would need to see the blue prints of the house to first see if it's even possible. With new construction, you have control. No central return air. Go with multiple return air vents, one in each room of the house. You can tell the builder which room is being designated for the HT room, and he can put you in contact with the HVAC company doing the work. Tell them the total BTU of output of your equipment, as well as how many people you expect to have in the room most of the time. The heating and cooling load calculation will then be based on this information.

Well... ...a set of v15-f Vegas will run you $560. Much less probably, because they are usually discounted in a major way. A set of RF7's will run you $2000, give or take a couple of hundred. Since one usually gets what one pays for (for the most part) -- we are talking light years apart in parts quality and sound. It would make more sense to compare the Vegas to a set of RF3's. At any rate, the Klipsch uses a horn (or horns), and the Vegas don't. The RF7's will take 250 watts. Of course, you could have looked at the products section to compare specs.

Colin said: "This is not to say that Reference series is perfect; it is still one of the better sedan models of family home entertainment - it just can't compete with the esoteric race car models (some of the old ones Klipsch still produces." Heritage bigotry at it's best. It surprises me that a prolific writer such as yourself , and with your level of experience -- would resort to this type of statement. I do not know what Reference models you heard at the dealer as you did not say. However, you should remember that $1400 separate the RF7's from the RF3's and RB5's, and there is $700 of separation between the RF5's and the RF7's -- and the only differences between those two models are the basket material for the woofers with the two extra inches, and the driver/horn combo. With the exception of the cabinet dimensions, exterior finishes, and the slightly different x-over points in the Scalas -- all three larger Heritage models are identical. Until recently, a pair of Scalas and a pair of RF7's were separated by only $600. Even with the price increase of this past year, I would say the only two reasons for the difference in prices between the RF7 and the larger Heritage is the labor involved in making the cabinets, and the additional crossover components needed to support the third driver. My point is that in order to make a fair comparison between the bigger Heritage models and Reference -- the comparison should be made with the RF7's. I believe the RF7's compete head on in many ways. They put out 75 to 80 percent of the macro-dynamic ability They put out 110 percent of the micro-dynamic ability They deliver a smoother frequency response (as opposed to peaky) They deliver a stable and wide image (as opposed to beamy) The upper treble is practically flawless (as opposed to "grating") They are easier to place which aids in proper integration with the listening room The cones in the RF7 are fabulous. I see no problem with letting the cones handle the fundamentals, and the horn handling the harmonics -- it works. It would be great to A/B your K-horns and Bottleheads with my RF7's and AE-25 DJH push-pull. I believe there would be suprises for the both of us -- but I certainly do not believe you would find the RF7's outclassed by the K-horns (especially if you are sticking with 3 wpc). It is not really fair for you to make the comment with only having a cursory experience with Reference (in a dealer showroom no less, the worst possible place). At any rate, I would hardly consider the RF7 a "sedan".

Maybe some of those POS Moondogs or Laurels will show up on AudiogoN soon, as everyone will hopefully be struck with the upgrade bug. Wish there was a way to keep my SuperAmp AND go SET as well. Over the last week I have wondered if I have finally reached the point of diminishing returns. When I listen to the system, I can't really hear anything in the sound that I feel needs "improvement".

If you buy quality, it all sounds good -- just different.

What's a Dynaco QD-2? Is that the old Hafler "out of phase" box like Mallet uses? If so, what do you think about it with movies, work O.K.?

It's not the quantiity of posts, but the quality.

If you aren't already, please be aware of the proper calibration curve with the Rat Shack meter. http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/general/messages/49147.html As for me, I just adjust by ear. Bring in the sub until you "hear" it, then slightly back off until you don't hear it. It'll be perfect everytime. I do it for every CD and every movie, since each disc is mixed differently. One setting just don't get it.

The room is large. It probably doesn't get much louder than a transistor radio. Of course, that's not surprising, since Bose drivers are just about identical to those found in a transistor radio! I can't possibly imagine what this guy was thinking. Actually, I don't think he was thinking at all. He's filling over 3000 sq ft with this:

Your hearing is probably fine. Adjust bass according to taste and toss the SPL meter. If you have a Radio Shack meter it's practically worthless anyway.

Oh no. Another one of them threads. Did the police ever say anything more about the tarot card found with the following: "Dear Police.I am God." What I find odd about the "note" is that the majority of Americans, whose first language is English -- wouldn't in all likelihood say, "Dear Police". At any rate, .223 cartridge is probably either an AR-15 or Mini 14. With a scope, he's good out to 300 yards. Stay clear of areas adjacent to open spaces.

Heck of an endorsement Qman. Sound pretty good huh? At any rate, folks on a budget should definitely be checking out "used" options. You can really make your money stretch. If you can find some Heresy's locally, or not to far away so shipping doesn't eat away your speaker money -- you should go for it. www.audiogon.com

Strange advice. Like all Klipsch products, the performance to value ratio with the Synergy Series is outstanding. For the money, it is excellent. However, your friend told you the truth. the Reference Series is a substantial increase in performance over Synergy. Start saving your money and upgrade ASAP:)

Actually, Justin is right and the rest of you are wrong. "Klipsch" is correctly pronounced -- Kleepsh

Can we see the pictures anyway

Hi Kain, Is that just the speaker cables, or does that include the interconnects as well?

Excellent. The only thing you might consider doing is pulling that right speaker in closer to the sub and farther away for the side wall. I can't bring up the pic of the left side. Is there a wall over there as well? Ideally, you want to put some distance between the side walls and the speakers. The reflected sound from those walls is bad for imaging.