BusaDude

The only way to know for sure is to put the vehicle on a dyno and make a few runs. You'll end up with an uncorrected figure for HP and torque, that is good for that day and those conditions. Those numbers would then be corrected to the SAE J1349 Standard, using 77°F, 29.235 in/Hg (or 990 mb) and 0% relative humidity. There are dyno/horsepower correction calculators all over the internet. But they won't tell you anything unless you know the atmospheric conditions. http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_cf.htm http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/ghtp-1109-fact-and-fiction-of-dyno-correction-real-wheel-horsepower/ http://www.dynojet.com/products/dynamometers/Automotive-dynamometers.aspx

No affiliation... Listing is for four speakers... $100 each or $350 for all four. https://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/for/5961721125.html

No affiliation... Don't see these often, much less a sequentially numbered pair. Would be nice to own just from the historical aspect of the speakers. https://houston.craigslist.org/ele/5958166786.html

From everything I've ever heard/read, the Chorus was to be an option (smaller footprint) and/or replacement for the Cornwall II. The Cornwall was a front ported speaker so it could be placed against a wall or in a corner. And I'm guessing that's why the original Chorus also had ports on the front. In 1990 Cornwall II production was stopped, and the Chorus II was introduced. And since the Cornwall was no longer around, I'm guessing the Chorus II was changed to match up with the Quartet and Forte II, both of which had rear passive radiators and the new Tractrix midrange, which were updated the year before in 1989. This created a trio of models which all had a similar design and a matching midrange horn. Im sure there's an acoustic/engineering reason, but someone like @Chief bonehead would have to answer that question.

You can set your system up however you like, but the whole point of a Dolby Atmos setup is for overhead effects/sounds. Lots of different speaker arrangements... 5.1.4, 7.1 4, 9.1.6, etc. https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/dolby-atmos-speaker-setup/index.html

No affiliation... Pair of the 70th Anniversary Klipschorns, listed for sale on Audiogon... https://www.audiogon.com/listings/full-range-klipsch-klipschorn-70th-anniversary-dealer-demo-2017-01-10-speakers-55449-minneapolis-mn

I've owned both and while I really liked the Forte II (which for the money may be the best, most well rounded speaker they've made), the Chorus II just had that little "something" extra. I always describe it as being "smoooooth" and DYNAMIC! And with the right amplifier it has bass that will thwack you in the chest. I only sold mine so I could get my first pair of LaScalas...

If I didn't have a ton of medical bills, I wouldn't have bothered listing it here... I'd already have it here at the house.

I vote for a Chorus III...

As long as they were purchased from an authorized dealer and you have the original sales receipt... You should be covered.

No affiliation... Pair of KLF-10's in black. Located in Fort Worth, TX. Nice price... https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/ele/5946037904.html

No affiliation... KV-4 center channel in black. Located in Terrell, TX which is about 35 miles east of Dallas. Local pickup... That's a great price. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ele/5921826705.html

Crites is THE source... http://www.critesspeakers.com/

Crites has crossover update kits for all of the KLF series as well as complete brand new crossovers. And the titanium diaphragms for all but the 10's. Though the 10's tweeter may match something else and just has a different part number. He also recently started selling a new midrange compression driver (A-55G) that supposedly will work in the KLF's as well (according to a post on here anyway). I had a pair of 20's that I had to reglue due to loose panels. Fairly easy and straightforward. I didn't do any other internal bracing, but I've seen MJ's posts. Good luck with your setup...

Keep the 10's and put them in the back surround position with the 20's directly at the side surround to maintain 7.1 channels. If not then the 20's will do a hell of a job by themselves... I have no idea on the value of the RS-7. But the 10's... Depending on finish, condition and your location, they could go for $200-$500. When I see them on eBay, they're usually toward the higher end of that range and Craigslist sales tend to be lower. Overall $350 is probably an average price.

No affiliation... Pair of Walnut Oiled Fortes and a Medium Oak KLF-C7. Nice package and price. https://austin.craigslist.org/ele/5908232495.html

Have you tried turning the volume up a few decibels on the center channel only to see if it helps or makes a difference... It may simply need to be a little louder.

Just my opinion... But it will be easier to find another pair of 1.5's (or 2.5's), for about the same price, if you're patient, than just a pair of woofers. You might be able to find a replacement woofer from Parts Express... http://www.parts-express.com/cat/woofers/15 But you'll have to dig through the specs to see if the bolt hole diameters match close enough to fit. Shipping is such a crap shoot these days. Sorry to hear about the KG4's.

Just curious... Which version?

The KG series is going to be the best center match. If you have room, another KG4 would be perfect. The KG2.5 is your next best bet and will probably give you 95% of what you might get from an Academy... Assuming you like the way the Academy would sound between the KG4's. If you wanted to try an Academy and ended up not liking it, you're probably not going to lose any (or very little) money on resale as they're still very popular.

It's going to depend on your location, but I've never seen a pair of CF-3's in the $400 range... Particularly a nice looking pair. If they're made in 1994 they may be version 1's (long port tubes - just over 5"), which would command a higher price. Personally if I could find a pair of version 1's in excellent condition, I wouldn't mind paying up to $600... maybe a bit more for a pair in cherry. https://web.archive.org/web/20121013072058/http://www.klipsch.com/cf-3

Go here... http://www.monoprice.com You'll find everything you need without being overcharged for some "name"...

The letter "N" in the serial number denotes a manufacturing date of 1975. The "K-C-BR" stands for Klipschorn, Type C (no collar), Birch Raw (unfinished Birch). Unless they are damaged in some way (drivers or cabinets) there wouldn't be anything inherently wrong with them. Hope that helps...

No affiliation... Pair of KLF-30's and a KV4 center channel in black. Located in Terrell, TX which is about 35 miles east of Dallas. Local pickup only. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ele/5914648288.html

No affiliation... Very nice looking pair of KG4's in oiled oak with the original boxes. Listed at $450 which is high, but maybe worth it to someone. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ele/5915020093.html