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Don't forget about the diamonds in the 60th anniversary Klipschorns. []

Young Frankstein is a classic. I saw it years ago and finally bought it on DVD recently. One of the funniest movies ever made. His talent will be missed.

Sorry Clarence, the markup on Rolexes is less than 100%. And Coytee, yes, the diamond dial is $1500 extra on a ladies Rolex Datejust. Like I said, the price is virtually cost, plus add the factory servicing to the price that Coytee's wife paid for. Rolexes hold their value better than any watch you can buy, except for a handful of extremely limited edition watches such as Patek Philippe. If you don't like the price, don't buy it! I'm just hear to tell you that Coytee's asking price is extremely fair.

GIA is one of the most reputable grading facilities in the world. You can be very comfortable with your purchase. Just to clear things up, you mention that you wouldn't settle for less than a VS2 but you ended up buying an SI2? I think you made a good choice. My wife's diamond is a D color, SI2 clarity, AGS 0 (Ideal) cut. It looks incredible. I can only imagine that your wife's diamond is just as beautiful!

Amy, There are several diamond simulants that have been used over the years, cubic zirconia being only one of them. Some other ones used are white sapphire, YAG (ytrium-aluminum garnet), white spinel, white zircon. Some diamond simulants are very easy to tell from a real diamond. Some are much harder. For instance, moissanite (a lab-created gemstone) is probably the closest to diamond in its appearance. We have testers at work that separate a diamond from either moissanite or other gemstone. There isn't any way that your earrings would be moissanite since that created stone has only been on the market for a few years. Unless they did a test with a refractometer and other gemological equipment, I don't see how they could have told you they for sure weren't cubic zirconia. It more than likely is one of the above mentioned diamond simulants.

Excellent advice, Colin. I've worked at a high end jewelry store for just about 9 years now. This time of year you see all the ads on TV for Zales and other chain stores that sell 1 carat diamond earrings for $199, diamond bracelets for $99, etc. Its funny how people think they're going to get a quality piece of jewelry for that amount of money. Unfortunately most people don't shop for jewelry very often so they have no idea what to look for in a fine quality piece, nor do they have any idea how much jewelry (especially diamonds) can vary in their quality, beauty and price. It is important to note that the clarity grade of a diamond is important, but there are several grades of clarity that will only affect the diamond's appearance under magnification and not as much the appearance to the naked eye. Diamonds graded from si1 and higher will only have inclusions that are visible under 10 times magnification. All diamonds that are an i1 or worse will always have at least 1 eye visible inclusion. The si2 grade is a 50/50 grade, some diamonds will and some diamonds won't have eye visible characteristics. Color is also very important, especially with a white gold or platinum setting. Sometimes you can get away with buying a diamond that has a slight yellow or brown tint if you set it yellow gold. You won't notice the color as much since the metal its set in is yellow. In white gold or platinum it is best to go with a very white diamond (G color or better) so that the silvery color of the metal doesn't clash with any yellow in the diamond. Most reputable jewelers will also talk about cut or light performance. This isn't the shape of the diamond, rather its the overall proportions and symmetry that the diamond has. Every diamond shape (round, princess, marquise, etc) has certain proportions that are ideal for maximum light reflection. A lot of poorer quality diamonds are cut very deep, resulting in a diamond that loses a significant amount of light out the bottom and side, reducing the amount of light reflected out the top of the diamond. Oh, and in case anyone's wondering, Christmas time is virtually a madhouse at most jewelry stores. This week I'll be working about 70 hours, and next week will probably be 80+. So please be nice to whoever helps you out at the jewelry store you may visit. Chances are they're putting in some serious overtime as well. []

I think I chimed in before when you posted this for sale, and I'll do it again! This is a great deal on a very feminine, beautiful timepiece! The price that Coytee is asking is virtually identical to dealer cost. Rolex watches have the lowest markup of any watch company that I've ever dealt with. The fact that Rolex just serviced the watch means that it would be almost impossible to tell it apart from a brand new watch. The refinishing that Rolex does to the exterior of their watches is the best I've ever seen from any watch company, and it usually costs at least $300. The dial is actually called the White Jubilee Serti. From a distance it looks like an interesting texture on the dial, and then up close you can see the word 'Rolex' imprinted horizontally and vertically on the dial. Its definitely one of the most captivating dials that Rolex makes. (By the way I'm the timepiece specialist at the jewelry store where I work, and we are an authorized Rolex dealer) [Y]

Last night after work I took advantage of the extended hours at BB and picked up a 6' interconnect for my subwoofer. While I was there I wandered over to the Klipsch sound room. Everything looked very clean and organized. There was some music playing pretty low. I hit a button on the demo display to listen to some jazz music. Turned up the volume a bit. YISH, the bass sounded terrible. I noticed on the control unit that the Sub-12 was selected, so I checked the back of the sub and sure enough. The crossover was set as high as it could possibly go, and the gain on the sub was also set as high as it could go. I put both of them at the 12 o'clock position and now everything sounded much better. I wonder if any BB employees go around regularly and check for things like that. If I didn't know anything about audio and listened to that system the way the Sub-12 was set up I would have thought twice about buying it. Went back tonight to look at CDs with my wife and a salesperson was demoing the Klipsch system to a guy in the sound room. We were a good 100 feet away from the room and the bass was loud and tight coming from the Sub-12. It really does put out some decent bass when its set up properly!

" Questions about your order? Having problems ordering? We welcome your questions, comments or complaints about our products or service. If you have a problem, we have a problem. Please e-mail us at promedia@klipsch.com or call the order hotline at 1-888-554-5665. "

I think it might be helpful for you to go to the Klipsch speaker specification pages on here and hook up discontinued speakers and it will show you the overall dimensions and weight of every Klipsch speaker that used to be made. If a series of Klipsch speakers has a # in the model # (i.e. RF-5, RF-7, KLF-10, KLF-30) the higher the # in the model, the larger the speaker and usually the larger the drivers as well. A KLF-30 has two 12" woofers, a HUGE midrange squawker, and a treble horn.

I believe it has to do with which RCA end is shielded. The arrow does matter, it should be going FROM the source TO the amplification system.

Glad you figured it out! I've had a few "duh" moments with my stereo equipment through the years as well. []

Not exactly what most people (or me, for that matter) would call "cool," but its a fun, pretty rare car (less than 20,000 built from 96-99) Sounds pretty good with an opened up V8 under the hood. I get lots of confused looks as to why my Taurus rumbles.

Holy crap man, KLF30s are HUGE! Fortunately for me, my wife doesn't mind the 3 pairs of Klipsch tower speakers I have in the basement right now!

Is it possible that HD-DVD has a wider dynamic range so that the difference between the quietest and loudest parts of the movie are much broader than with standard DVD? That might explain why you have to turn up the volume a bit.

Well, I don't have Heresys and unfortunately have never heard them in person. But, my Forte II + HK3480 + SVS sounds mighty fine to me!!

You probably have already, but make sure that the jumpers on the speakers are connected correctly.

Yes, that is how my speakers are hooked up. My friend's KLF30s are hooked up to Speaker 1 and my Forte IIs are hooked up to Speaker 2. I've only listened to both pairs at the same time for a few seconds. Usually I listen to the KLF30s when I'm rocking out and mainly looking for tons of decibels. I use the Fortes for watching TV and movies.

You made the best choice. The '3' series is the Synergy series top of the line. You want to match all the speakers as far as their last # when you're looking at the Synergy series to get the best timbre matching. Woofer size isn't really the most important thing when it comes to speaker matching. Enjoy your setup!! By the way, if you don't yet have a sub, the Sub-12 has received many great reviews!

Considering you have a 5 channel Aragon amp, I'd use that to power all your speakers (except the sub, of course since it has its own internal amp) If your Pioneer has pre-amp outputs for all 5 channels, I would hook them up to the Aragon and then hook your speakers up to the Aragon. Hook the sub up to the LFE or sub out on the pioneer. Doing this would make the Pioneer the pre-amp and the Aragon the main amp. Your Aragon is going to be a much more capable amp than the Pioneer, and you don't have to worry about overpowering any of your speakers.

There aren't 2 separate amplifiers in the HK, and the fact that it lets you connect 2 pairs of main speakers isn't 'weird.' I don't want to come off as sounding like a jerk, but virtually all 2 channel and many surround sound receivers have outputs for 2 pairs of main speakers. Run both of them off either Speaker 1 or Speaker 2. The way you have things hooked up isn't how HK intended them to be. As others have said, more than likely a wire got crossed at the speaker connection or the amp connection to cause the HK to go into protect mode.

You'll hit above 100dB with 10 watts. More than enough for most people's listening levels!

Not sure if this is an option, but try moving your front mains farther apart, closer to the wall and then toed in just slightly. Might open up the soundstage a bit in front. Also might be a good idea to bring your front mains closer to you so they're on the same horizontal plane as the center channel. Who knows, you might like how it sounds!

Don't get any fancy speaker wire, but get some somewhat decent interconnects (the wires that you connect to your CD player, DVD player, subwoofer, etc)

A friend's Dad has the 321 system. Whatever you do, DON'T GET IT. It sounded terrible at his house. The Sub-10 is a pretty potent little sub. I'm assuming you're looking at Best Buy for these speakers? You might want to look into the F1, F2 or F3 floorstanders. Otherwise, within the Synergy series that Best Buy carries, the models with the 3 at the end are going to be the top model within that series. So if you want the best of the 'S' series, go with the S3. As far as the receiver, all you need is a basic receiver. You should be able to pick a decent one up for $150-200 at Best Buy. Just look for one that has a subwoofer output (almost all receivers on the market have them). You'll then have a receiver that you can hook up your Xbox, TV, DVD player, CD player, etc, and be able to enjoy the audio portion of the above mentioned items that much more!