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DrTUBE

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Posts posted by DrTUBE

  1. On 2/19/2021 at 12:37 AM, MacWorks said:

    So I purchased a pair of Heresy II's last year and have them paired with a Adcom preamp and an Mondial Acurus amp. Very please with the overall sound.

     

    I have an opportunity to buy a couple of redone Dynaco Mark II's for $800 . The owner states that the are 10 watts ( thought these were 50 watt mono blocks) .  So my question is will this be a jaw dropping improvement or will it just be a PIA for me and a money pit replacing tubes?

     

    Would a tube pre-amp give me a bigger bang for my buck?

     

    I listen to flac files and use Roon on a Raspberry Pi, along with Qobuz and Tidal.

     

    TIA

     

     

     

    IMHO, it's certainly not a bad investment, @MacWorks...

     

    Well, only 10Watts RMS coming from a pair of EL34 in a Dynaco MKII amp is somewhat curious...

     

    That said, I drive my HERESY I HBR with a pair of compact 10Watts DIY OTL monoblocks, and it is way enough to reach an unbearable loudness level ! :) 

     

    8bZXJb-P1100316.jpg

     

    So with your "reputedly" MKII 10W Dynacos, it should work fine... Maybe the power tubes are connected in triode mode ?

     

    Cheers,

  2. Today afternoon, being alone at home, I could test my "fully stuffed" HERESY I at high loudness - relative to my small auditorium, of course :) - using the amplifiers that I designed among others for them :

     

    LUvYJb-P1100328.jpg

     

    These are OTL (Output Transformer Less) mono block amplifiers, able to give continuous 10W RMS @16R, with a 1Hz-200KHz bandwith @10W.

     

    I can confirm that - considering the means implemented here - the result with "full stuffing" is rather satisfactory, in terms of box resonances cancellation in the low-mid / mid region, which tended to be "ahead" of the rest of the sound spectrum, overshadowing notably the bass extension offered by the OTL circuit.

     

    Another benefit provided by the  full stuffing is the lowering of the Qtc of the enclosure, which improve the bass extension (not the level) and the transient response. 

     

    That said, I'll have to make some measurements to check that effective Qtc lowering... I remember that in 2005, I measured a Qtc at circa 0.8 , the enclosure being factory stock, but I am unsure of the value, since I did not retrieved my notes... :( 

     

    One of you knows the Qtc value of the Heresy I, by chance ?

     

    Cheers,

     

     

    • Like 1
  3. @billybob:

     

    On the web, I found this document below, called KLIPSCH HERITAGE REFERENCE DATA - (V.3 - 23 Aug 2013)

     

    https://2d73e25b29782b6d6766-9c8af5cbfef16739445bc76457060528.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/Codex_V3_130823_635128700889860000.pdf

     

    Where there is many useful informations about codes used by Klipsch.

     

    Well - you may already know it, I guess, but anyway it's not bad to share it... :) 

     

    Cheers,

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  4. OK - I see @ClaudeJ1 and @MookieStl !

     

    In fact, "Bass-Reflex-ing" my Heresy I was just an experimentation I did in the mid-2000s... Today, I consider letting them in Sealed enclosure operation definetly. For a Bass-Reflex, I would go differently. :) 

     

    By the way, I have read somewhere that Klipsch "recommends the K-24-E as the replacement woofer for the K-22-K" that I have in my Heresy I. Is that a true statement ? To your knowledge, Is there other alternatives ?

     

    Cheers,

  5. @TexDrone :

     

    It seems that it is Fir plywood, covered with a thin Birch veneer, according to the answer of members in your dedicated topic on the subject.

     

     

    @yamahaSHO :

     

    Unlike your nice work, my attempt for a refinish of the edges of my Heresy I HBR ends to be very far from remarkable...   :( 

     

    67opLb-SEPABOH2.jpg

     

    67opLb-SEPABOH1.jpg

     

    - The hardwood sealant is not so hard, and doesn't absorb the tint as expected...

    - The poor wood itself reacts unevenly in absorbing the tint...

     

    OK... I will pass a second - and maybe a third - coat of color locally, hoping that the result will improve and be more tint-even between edges and faces, and... Basta ! 

     

    It's useless to waste my time to go further with those cabinets, IMHO. If I want a nice finish, I just have to build a pair of cabs from Beech glued-laminated timber, like my small "Cubes" below :

     

    saimKb-C10.jpg

     

    VSDwKb-finition-huile-siccative-SYNTILOR

     

    Hq3VKb-P1100829.jpg

     

    Cheers,

    • Like 2
  6. 7 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

    You need to have a K-42 woofer or Delta Pro 12a to have the port work well. Then you don't need the Xover mod. It's called a Super Heresy 3.0 as done by Fido.

     

    @ClaudeJ1 : I attempted to search on the forum but found no traces of those Super Heresy 3.0 by Fido... :( Can you point me to the link ?

     

    Thanks & Cheers,

  7. Here's my contribution to the Vintage Stereo Receivers thread  : Marantz 2015 and 2250b, bought 2nd hand cheap at a time where the Digital was focusing all the attention... :) 

     

    mVKhJb-marantzBG2250B2015.jpg

     

    Marantz 4240 - Even if it was profitable, I should NEVER have sold it... :( 

     

    vTKhJb-IMG-0011c.jpg

     

    Again my 2250b and a Sony STR-6055 :

     

    q0IAJb-IMG-1893.jpg

     

    OK - these ones are not Stereo, but they are nonetheless great sounding AM-FM receivers : Blaupunkt Riviera and Milano...

     

    lgpCKb-P1070697.jpg

     

    PfpCKb-IMG-1850.jpg

     

    Cheers,

     

     

    • Like 8
    • Thanks 1
  8. Thanks @Klipschguy !

     

    Question : I saw that the cabs of my Heresy I are assembled by outside nailing and internal stapled bracing in the angles. But do you know if in addition these cab panels were also factory glued ?

     

    Yes, I'm tempted to build a pair of Heresy cabinets using Laminated-Glued Beechwood. This wood is consistent to machine, mechanically resistant, and offers easily a nice natural finish just by oiling it - hence my small "The Cube" - where I used kitchen worktop oil :

     

    rRDwKb-The-CUBE-1.jpg

     

    xRDwKb-The-CUBE-2.jpg

     

    VSDwKb-finition-huile-siccative-SYNTILOR

     

    Cheers,

  9. Hi @Klipschguy

     

    Here are the mentions found on my Heresy I HBR pair :

     

    ke9nLb-serialnumber2.jpg

     

    ke9nLb-serialnumber.jpg

     

    They are also stamped "USA" : I noticed this today...

     

    I'd rather agree with @Dave A : it looks like Fir or Pine plywood, looking at the edges and the way it reacts under the radiusing bit of the router...

     

    Below :

    Upper cabs are made from laminated-glued Beechwood : hard and abuse resistant.

    Center cabs are mad from Pine plywood : quite resistant, but not not as good as Birch, indeed.

    Lower cabs are made from Fir wood planks, covered with tolex : tender like buter, poor resistance, but lightweight.

     

    30osKb-FAN-GRID-SPEAKERS-15-09-2020.jpg

     

    Cheers,

    • Like 1
  10. God wanted to upgrade his Klipschorns, so he called Mr. Crites, on the insisting recommendations of a certain Mr.PWK...

     

    Thank you again Mr Crites for your useful help and top notch products when, in the early 2000s, I built my DIY Cornwall enclosures :

     

    aJHYJb-CORNWALL-by-GUILHEM.jpg

     

    Cheers,

    • Like 1
  11. 8 hours ago, henry4841 said:

    Excellent work. Thanks for sharing. What are some of the output transformers you are using?

     

     

    Thanks @henry4841

     

    On the Ultimate 300B, the output transformers are from the French brand STS Millerioux (from mid-80s), model HH25-B. These are sealed, C-core, 2500R/4-8-16R/25Wrms.

     

    image.png.de3209805af0817f79b741b9eb378a51.png

     

    image.png.46eba00b92d91ea042b9c06ef443e3f0.png

     

    On the Ultimate OTL6080, what looks to be output transformers (black casings) are in fact the power stage filtering module. As this amp is an OTL circuit, there's no output transformer :

     

    Ml4SJb-modu2-06-07-2020.jpg

     

    Cheers,

     

    • Like 1
  12. 9 hours ago, yamahaSHO said:

    1 - My cabinets do have nails in them. 

    2 - I believe I used a 1/4 inch radius bit. 

    3 - Klipsch would not have done the finish as the R in HBR stands for raw. 

    4 - I had some small bits to fill or glue together. That corner you have that's damaged, was that from the router? If you have the piece, you can glue and clamp it and use a little filler and sanding when dry. 

     

    OK, I see - Thanks @yamahaSHO

     

    Unfotunately, the corners have been damaged in the past by schocks / bumps, probably due to mishandling or falls : the wood has been crushed and just brittled under the router bit, so there's no matching part to reglue. A hard filler repair will be required.

     

    Cheers,

  13. On 9/5/2020 at 2:50 PM, henry4841 said:

    I would love to see more pictures of your tube amplifiers. To me they can be a work of art and some of them really catch your eye when they are on. I only have a couple of my builds worthy of posting and members have already seen them so I will not post another picture. The rest of my builds are built around a plain Bud box or Hammond. I have always been more interested in the sound rather than the appearance but I love looking at really nice retail and diy builds. Very few SS amplifiers can really catch your eye like a tube amplifier does. I look forward to seeing more. The last pictures here of the Dennis Had and Seti's build look outstanding. 

     

    I browsed the entire topic and saw an array of nice tube amps, both DIY and commercial products... Consquently, I distributed so much "likes" that I have been "like-forbidden for today" by the forum platform (may be I have been considered as a "like" bot ?)  :)

     

    I complete the thread by some of my DIY achievements - which share the same Hammond aluminium casing (1550J = 275x175x67mm) :

     

    5AO8Kb-IMG-1142.jpg

     

    5AO8Kb-IMG-1152.jpg

     

    pCOqJb-U300B-1-et-2-cablage-fini-01-07-2

     

    8bZXJb-P1100316.jpg

     

    ddZXJb-P1100318.jpg

     

    LUvYJb-P1100328.jpg

     

    ovvYJb-P1100344.jpg

     

    ePWXJb-elements.jpg

     

    Cheers,

     

    • Like 8
    • Thanks 2
  14.  @yamahaSHO

     

    I decided today to follow your path for refinishing my Heresy I :) ... I started by rounding the edges, just like you did on yours (below) :

     

    49898386502_66e91fc704_h.jpg

     

    I guessed that you went for a 6mm / 1/4" radius because of the presence of the nails assembling the panels ? Well, it's what I was forced to use, by the way...

     

    RtTnLb-P1110705.jpg

     

    You can also see that - converesely to yours - my Heresy cabs have been unfrotunately damaged (quite badly) by the previous owners at the edges (picture above and below) :

     

    RtTnLb-P1110703.jpg

     

    My Makita RP0900 Router did her best with a brand new 6mm radius bit, but alas, it couldn't erase all the damages...  :(

     

    StTnLb-P1110706.jpg

     

    I think I will have to use some wood filler here and there... Not so nice... :(

     

    StTnLb-P1110707.jpg

     

    So I have a few questions :

     

    1 - Are the cabs panels of your Heresy I nailed, like on mine ?

    2 - I assumed that you used a 6mm radius bit, but maybe it was 8mm ?

    3 - it seems that my Heresy I have been some sort of stained and varnished, or was it an original finish option (designated by the term HBR) : what's your opinion ?

    4 - did you performed some local wood repairs on your cabs ?

     

    Thanks to let me know,

     

    Cheers,

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  15. 1 hour ago, AndreG. said:

    I own a pair of Heresy Is as well. I did some reading and one advice that came up was, since the cabinets are quite small, Heresy does not need bracing in general. The exception beeing the back-panel, as You mentioned. That could be fixed with a simple 4x4, screwed diagonaly to the panel from the inside, thus not visible and easily reversible if one wants to go back to stock.

     

    Thanks @AndreG. !

     

    Yes indeed, bracing the back panel itself is easy, and I'll plan to do it also. Maybe by building a special braced panel...

     

    In the early 2000, I quiclky experimented a Bass-Reflex transformation of my Heresy I, by building a special ported back-panel :

     

    NUMnLb-ESSAI-HERESY-BG-EN-BR.jpg

     

    The performances obtained by software simulation were interesting, but proved not to be so convincing finally... It was a quick test that I did not dig further at that time - I should !

     

    Cheers,

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