jason str

Driver size has nothing to do with how musical a subwoofer is. Thiele small parameters of the driver and cabinet design dictates how it will sound.

The THT uses 1/2" plywood and the F-20 uses 3/4". The little money Bill charges for his plans will be made back with the less expensive plywood. If your room is very large or open to other areas the full size THT is the way to go, frequency response is much flatter than the F-20 or the smaller THT designs. If the room benefits from room gain you probably dont need a full size cabinet and can get away with a smaller version(s). Build what suits your room or needs best and don't worry what is easier unless you're just lazy, once you are done you won't worry about the extra time you spent building what you really needed in the first place because you won't need to do it twice. Follow the plans,read them over a few times before you start building and don't skip any steps, you will be done and listening to your new subs before you know it. Just an option. You can mix width THT versions or use a Table Tuba in the same setup if the full size just dosent fit your space for any reason. Don't let the 8" or 10" driver scare you off as they still beat most mass produced models in volume + much lower distortion.

The right preamp is just as important as a good amplifier choice, some combinations are great and some are not so much. Got a bright amp ? Choose a warm sounding preamp to take the edge off.

Parts are rare and hard to come by, price is not outta line. Not a great engine by today's standards, good stump puller low RPM motor. This is considered a big block v-6 by the way and may be the first year it was produced but not exactly sure. I like the later 348-409's myself but hey, thats my opinion.

Looks like i picked the wrong week to stop sniffing glue.

I am surprised boner pills weren't in the top 10. Probably because popsicle sticks and twist ties are more economical.

I was told retarded is no a longer socially acceptable term. Mentally challenged or big dumbazz should now be used so not to offend.

Timing chains normally stretch and skip a tooth where a belt will normally loose teeth, both are wear items and need replacement at some point. Don't base your decision on this. Subaru would be my last choice on a used vehicle. Mom has a 2013 Honda CRV it is a good mini SUV but it does have its quirks but not a bad choice for a used vehicle.

Briggs & Stratton is the largest engine manufacturer for power equipment and made right here in the good old USA. I have no reservations recommending their products.

Forgot about this thread. I have the Long style TT hooked up in the garage if anybody wants a test drive.

Just replaced my 24 year old mower with one of these. Saves on storage is the main reason for buying and i buy Briggs engines because i am familiar with them. Nothing wrong with the Honda engines but i tend to stay away from Kohler engines unless its for a winter machine like a snowblower or the like.

Throw them on stands at ear level toed in and add a Table Tuba for a subwoofer, one 8" will have no problems keeping up with the mains unless you have a very large room. Use a double 8" cabinet for large areas for best results.

You need to realize these terms overlap in the real world. It is all on the same slippery slope, just at a different point on the line. I don't think public opinion should drive government regulation. It should be left to health professionals to give monitor the drugs. Health professionals receive kickbacks from drug company's sales, not a good combination. Government is supposed to work for us therefore they should give the people a voice. I deal with pain myself. Nerve damage, Arthritis plus worn joints among other things and opiates do help but i choose not to use very much anymore. I take Gabapentin for nerve pain and smoke some weedies sometimes to mask the pain, no withdrawal problems for me anymore.

BFM Simplexx are well designed cabinets and very easy to build, plus they are a step above your normal precut DIY kits in many ways. The Simplexx 15 uses the Dayton RSS 15" driver, either the HO or HF depending if you go with the ported or sealed version. Both are great drivers for your $$$. The 18" version recommends the Dayton Ultimax and is a sealed design and if i recall somebody here is selling a 1000 watt Dayton amp on the cheap that would be a perfect match for the build. No special tools are needed to build ether cabinet, just a circular and a jigsaw will do the trick. If carpentry is not your thing check out the Stonehenge kit from DIY sound.

I never noticed this until I was able to hear them back to back. Sealed was way more defined and tight. Wasn't really comparing apples to apples though. Much depends on the tuning on the port(s). When you tune your cabinet for lower frequency response you lose lower midbass defenition. Just another tradeoff of cabinet design.

Lots of people even here are running sealed boxes with great results. Each enclosure type has its pros and cons of course but to issue a blanket statement saying that sealed 18's are no good for home theater is kind of silly. I never made a blanket statement about sealed cabinets, you are just putting words in my mouth. My statement was only in regards to the Dayton UM18 so get over yourself.

Every room has its challenges, too many variables are involved and most spend lots of time trying to get it to sound right. If you are happy with your results thats great but sealed subs are not everybodys cup of tea.

In-room I'm flat to 10 with mostly only a cut at 40 hz. My only complaint with the sound is subsonic stuff around reference level, they get to flopping around a stupid amount. Porting it would sure help this, and it would also be about 14 cubic feet just for one driver including the port and driver displacement if you tune it to 15. If we're talking about Sub-12's and a single R-115 as viable alternatives, there's no reason why a sealed Ultimax wouldn't be acceptable. Of course more would be better, as always. Room gain depends on room size, the smaller the room the more gain you get in low frequencies. is that what you get when you punch in parameters in a sub box program? win ISD or something? and would that be a ground plane measurement? just wondering cause it doesn't seem like it would be that far down at 20. Listed on the PE page in a 4 cubic foot cabinet f10 is @ 18 Hz but you must account for the driver once installed so i gave a quick look for myself what the response in the knockdown cabinet in WinISD.

It works fine. If you want to rupture your guts out at 15 hz you might need 8 of the things but otherwise it's fine. I've got two in a sealed box, for most material it is more than enough at halfway sane listening levels. Should be down 10 dB @ 20 Hz or so in that 4 cubic foot cabinet in case anyone was interested.

That Dayton in a ported cabinet would be great, using a sealed cabinet not so much for home theater

For the record, two 18, 21, or 24 in. subs will not over power the room if setup correctly. If this was aimed at my comment you misunderstood my post. What i said was "You wont need 2 18" subs in a room that size unless you want to overpower everything else in your system". Maybe you mistook want to for will ? If this was not aimed at my comment just disregard.

I don't really agree with this, it may be ok for being a gentleman while helping towers out with a subtle foundaton on music, but for movies the sub-bass doesn't really open up nicely until you get two in there. They are more directional than I'd like as well, so only having one can make the room sound lopsided. I have a 15x20 room with 9' ceilings and tried about every combination possible in there. But yeah, of course, if budget dictates then one will get you started. I just don't think that two is only necessary with very large rooms as stated. Two should be the goal from the beginning in my opinion, even in relatively small rooms. What is not to agree with ? I would rather have one great sounding sub over multiples of lesser models, yeah there may be a room null but at least what you hear sounds better. Yes multiples are better if you have the room and the money or have a large area where one won't cut it but placement is key overall. You wont need 2 18" subs in a room that size unless you want to overpower everything else in your system. A pair of ported 12's would be ideal or a THT or F-20 would be even better, cheaper build and worth every minute of build time.

Unless your room is huge one R-115SW will do the trick, there are better options at higher prices but the R-115SW is decent and if the name is a must would be my choice. If you have a very large room or desire more you can always add another down the road. The Sub 12 was mentioned also, not a good sub for music and needs to be crossed very low as it gets muddy very quickly over 40 Hz. Building is a great option too but be sure to find a good match for your system, frequency extension is not the only specification to consider when choosing a subwoofer.

Kayne is a hack. Freddie had the best male voice in rock n roll.