jason str

Awesome thank you for that! Any specific primer? I use Rust Oleum fast dry all purpose black. It has a decent spray nozzle and shows any imperfections well when wet so you know where you need to do more sanding & filling after your primer dries.

Bondo is just a generic name for product that requires a hardener ...just like Epoxy which without a hardener will never dry/cure. Its been used on all types of surfaces that will be painted. A skilled Furniture Restorer will also use a Bondo type product on an unpainted ( stained ) surface but it will require graining and extensive color touch up. Other products like Shellac Burn In Sticks can be used as well but again.. they will require the knowledge to make the repair completely invisible to the naked eye. In short...a Bondo type product will suffice for a painted finish. Bondo is a brand name not a generic name, been around forever. My grandfather showed me how to use it when i was a young boy working in his wood shop. It holds up well laid thick as well, i used it to repair our front door and fill in the deadbolt hole over 30 years ago and you still couldn't tell where it was repaired at one time.

how long before the Bondo hardens - Depends on how much hardener you mix in.

Jim, be sure to prime over the Bondo if you go that route, duratex itself does not stick well to the bondo. I prime everything myself but wanted to give a heads up warning so your finished product looks nice and holds up well.

do you have one brand in mind I use Bondo brand personally - and how much would you need to do a full pair of scalas in a bad shape One quart should be enough for 2 badly damaged cabinets with some leftover for other projects -is there such a thing as bondo that you dont have to mix with hardener Its a 2 part epoxy resin so no - kinda like - just open the can and use -or no - The stuff has a long shelf life so don't be afraid of getting a bigger size

Bondo auto body filler is the way to go, 2 part epoxy. Wood filler is ok for small nail holes, nicks and such but if you are repairing a corner or rebuilding an edge use Bondo.

Somebody had a nice NAD 1700 preamp here in the for sale section for a reasonable price, its a good sounding piece.

The Table Tuba or THT is your best choice for adding bass to your LaScala's, they are a big step up from your standard direct radiating types. Trade off is size but you have the option of making it into a nice looking piece of furniture that blends with its surroundings like a table, TV stand, column or whatever suits your needs & taste. I would take one good subwoofer over multiples of a lesser type myself, the downside may be a room null but multiples of crappy sound just leads to more crappy sound minus the null. Get the proper tool for the job and save the headache.

Bump to the top.

Most here have their gear listed in their signature. Audio components should be placed where they work/sound best and not where they look the best.

You would be hard pressed going with anything other than a fully horn loaded system for value and sound quality. If there is space in the room there is space for a good set of horns.

I like chocolate ice cream. Chocolate ice cream dielectric i'm not so sure of.

Could be used as an alternative to fancy speaker wire in the near future as well.

Anybody hear of any hemp capacitors being used in the audio field yet ? Now that hemp is a legal crop i figured someone would surely be taking advantage of this low cost alternative.

I was into racing myself, spent most weekends at Great Lakes dragway in Wisconsin racing whatever i had on hand at the time. If i had kept half of the cars i went through when i was younger i would be a rich man.

As in the past when you've felt the need to critique my work, I'll pass on your advice. I'm not sure if its part of the plans or not, i have not built one but the braces are about as much use as a pair of severed floor joists holding up a floor. Learning is a good part of construction, take my word of advice and experience as a good thing not as a criticism of you in general. Don't be so hostile.

Those two bottom panel braces add no structural value to the cabinet. Leave them off another is built, its just added weight.

I sold my LaScala pair last year for $1250, they were black but decent shape and sold quickly. Not because i wanted to but i am far behind in child support as business is slow. If i had the extra cash i would grab these for myself.

Nice looking pair of LaScala's, they should sell quickly. Good luck with your sale.

Parts Express sold these in their buyout section some time ago, great for a clone cabinet project or simple blown driver replacement. Good price, it should sell quickly. Edit... T/S parameters are listed for custom cabinet builds.

Forgot about the different K-33-E drivers. Make sure you have the round magnet K-33-E, i think the T-S parameters are way off for the square magnet version if i recall.

The K-33-E will work. The K-33-E is the only driver used in the cornwall that will work with the THT. Don't get a big amp to push it, you wont need it as the THT is very efficient and the K-33-E is not a powerhouse driver. A 70-100 watt plate amp is plenty.

I think a Klipschorn style tophat that matches the bottom would be a great match. Not wrapping the grille around the sides like the Khorn but square with surround moulding like the older style LaScala. Matching grilles are a must, lots of great options for materials out there if you think outside the box, even a quality burlap can look nice and can be dyed if tan is not your color,

Looks beyond repair to me. Not a very neighborly thing to do.

My son is headed out to Colorado for a wedding today, could have hooked you up with a custom subwoofer with free local delivery. Would have had to fit in a Ford Festiva though.