jason str

The screws you need to remove are normally the ones on the outside edge of the amp. Double check you have all the screws out that attatch the amp to the cabinet, sometimes it takes a little prying to dislodge the amp. If you still have no idea what you are doing post a picture of the amp side of the subwoofer so we can get a better idea of where you are having troubles.

We had horn speakers in our house as long as i can remember, i just thought it was normal when i was growing up. Now Im past 40 nothing has changed and probably never will.

Unplug your cables to the amp Remove the screws from the amp & carefully dislodge the amp from cabinet, look inside and see if the speaker cable is soldered at both ends. If soldered just cut the wire with cutters and repair later, if not just unattatch the wire from the connection, done.

The Tuba is great for music, my Dayton 240 watt amp rolls off under 22 hz . The Titan is geared for live shows What i like about the Tuba HT is the sound, never have i been happy with a subwoofer, all can pound and boom to make things shake some better than others but since hearing the Tuba its like stepping into a whole different category of sound and takes getting used to, like pulling the cotton out of your ears and hearing it all over again. Bass notes so clean and do not seem to roll off on the bottom like normal systems i heard in the past Of course not all music benefits from having a good subwoofer but those that do want to hear it like never before should at least look into one of these big horn loaded units. Very easy to blend into your system, midbass does not become sloppy. Next i will build the Table Tuba, a smaller version subwoofer for more experimenting and room positioning options. As for the brace in the LaScala i think it will be a good and easy task to get done sometime soon.

What you need to get to finish off the missing link is a Tuba HT and 100 watt plate amp, it really adds depth and realism like nothing else. Anything under 70 or 80 hz is perfent, in fact i was thinking of installing the horn mouth braces on my LaScala's to see if it gets rid of the next weakest link, great sounding bass but some frequencies do not sound very natural and i think it may just be the cabinet, it seems to be more apparent at higher volumes.

I would just upgrade to new capacitors and be done with it, changing the wire will not affect the sound.

I see they gave the person some tickets first, sorry my mistake for not reading carefully enough. Still this calls for drastic measures, i do not see any quality Bose equipment so it could not have been that loud.

No warning or fine first, how long before the people compare it to Nazi Gremany ? Looks like another job for a big bag of roofing nails in the neighbors driveways to me. Setup a moble tire repair shop on the corner to get your $$$ back for louder equipment. [Y]

Post a picture so we can see where the rip is.

Its almost impossible to know what you have there until the leaves are out, repost when they are out.

Those geese can be vicious (more bark or squalk than bite), give it a swift kick next time and it should go away.

$Sold

I would hate to see anybody ruin a perfectly good lamp just for some wire, spare no expense and run down to Radio Shack and pick up some cable. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049733 Here is what i use, it tucks away nicely because its nice and thin. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104178 50 cents a foot may seem like highway robbery for some but think of it as a good investment.

If the Tuba 24 is 1/2 as good as the HT you wont be sorry, i will never be able to use this sub to its full potential even with the way i jam out. Thank's for the kind words.

The only problem with stacking and/or mixing speakers is the soundstage disappears, it does sound good though. I stacked my Chorus II's upside down on top of the LaScala's and admit it did create a formidable, punchy sounding stack of sound.

Lots of time, labor and skill went into building this horn loaded subwoofer, you know you want it, don't be shy now. [] Be sure to check out the trade items needed just above.

and I am pretty sure you never will Probably just a Bose lover talking trash, if Wal-Mart starts selling Klipsch i will eat my x wifes cooking. [+o(]

Snap on makes the best tools anywhere but they charge an arm and a leg for everything.

Running the wires up the wall will take a few basic tools and more of your time but nothing too bad. First make sure of your speaker placement so you wont need to repeat the process. I am going to recommend some wall mount speaker wire plates to give you a more professional look. You will need a long drill bit big enough to squeeze your wires through and a fish tape and a keyhole saw to cut through your drywall. First cut your hole for your speaker wire plates to size then cut a hole just over the floor trim on the drywall big enough to angle your drill bit to drill through the floor and enough to get your cable and fingers in. Angle your drill bit sharply so not to go through the back of your wall,drill your hole through your subfloor with your long drill bit, feed your fish tape through the hole and attatch your wire to the tape then pull it through the hole. Unhook your tape and feed it through the upper wall hole behind your speaker to the lower hole and hook up your wire to the tape and pull it through the top hole and hook the wire to the wall jack. Patch your lower hole and prime and paint to match the rest of the wall, repeat for each speaker.

I use the Shack because its within walking distance from my home and to avoid ridiculous shipping charges. Normally i try to avoid buying online anyways but sometimes i find its needed and bite the bullet.

Yes 14 gauge is more than enough for all of your wire runs for all your speakers. If you have carpet like you said just make 2 small slits (one slit may be used but may need to be longer to access subfloor)in the carpet where you plan to drill your holes, pull the flap of carpet back and drill being sure there is nothing underneath to drill through such as air ducts, conduit, water pipe, etc... run the cable through the hole(s) and push the carpet flap back onto the carpet tackboard and repeat for each speaker location. If your speakers are located high on the wall post back and i will give instructions for wall mounting.

14 gauge is fine for the runs. If you have a crawl space or basement you can just drill some small holes behind your audio cabinet and run the cable underneath the floor to your speakers to avoid exposed cables.

No worries about carpet static unless bare wire is exposed, wire sheathing is there for more than just keeping the wires touching together.

Its just different and may take some getting used to, nobody's attention span is shorter than mine, uuhhh where was i, oh yeah, i think its a classy design worthy of the name. Can the older logo's still be used for advertisement purposes or is the new design the golden rule ?

In general less efficiency = more heat but there are other factors such as: size, phaze, speed etc... The smaller motor probably runs at higher speeds thus making more heat but built specifically to withstand higher temperatures and since there is less surface area for cooling heat dissipation is not as rapid. Im no engineer but less rotating mass should lead to a more efficient design as well. In general all things being the same a 3 phaze motor will run more efficiently than a single phaze design.