jason str

Fill in the holes carefully with this, don't get it on anything ( including the bottom of the cabinet if possible) as it does not come off. It expands as it dries and after a hour or few (more or less depending on temp & humidity) just scrape it flush and install 4 of these.

Dad tells he would like to get back into music again after over a decade without. No way to fit his Chorus II in his room so i figured start out with something small and see if he stays interested. KG1 - KG2 bookshelf models, anything but Black please, must be in good condition.

The magnets are very strong, as for how many it would depend on the sturdiness and weight of the frame itself.

Disregard

As long as there is feet under the sub and the passive is free to do what it does there will be no problem with them. Edit. I see now what you are talking about the passives after looking, you will likely need side placement as the feet look like they will hit the top passive. As long as they are within 3 feet of each other doubling cabinets will net you another 6dB.

Used them on custom sub grilles. Not sure about the stock frames, they may not be thick enough to drill into and countersink but i suppose you could drill the baffle magnet flush and epoxy the other to the frame.

>These< work great

Same subs stacked not 2 different subs stacked.

Find the best 2 spots for the subs and double them up using two of the same subs in two places.

Don't feel bad, its nearly impossible to hear the drivers stressing in the design unlike normal DR types. I did find a Dayton with higher power handling but you still need to remember its only a 8". This woofer will need to be measured when installing to be sure there is no interference since the cutout is not the same size as the RE Audio and will need a gasket before installation.

Not needed, too much power fried the driver not over-excursion.

Toyota Hybrid

If you like it stupid loud go with the 10" or double 8".

I was in a Toyoya Prius taxi the other day, had just over 300,000 miles on it and the driver was telling me how reliable it has been and how he was turned on to them from other drivers who experienced the savings over the miles. 50+ MPG If you don't mind a smaller car its a good option.

The Table is designed for smaller drivers, a 12" will not fit in the cabinet. Modification is not needed. Single 8, single 10" or double 8".

There is a junction for the harness that runs through the firewall on many model GM's, not sure about the Chevy truck through the years. There is 1 screw that holds the harness together, remove it and check the connections on both sides. Follow the leads as mentioned and look for corroded terminals, rubbing harness wires & such. Bad ECM's can do crazy things as well but if its weather related its good to look there first.

Everything runs right through the junction box i mentioned in my first post.

Check the bulkhead at the firewall and all the connections related. If you end up with a cannot duplicate ticket from the dealer use a garden hose pinpointed in small areas to try and get the problem to happen. Beyond that its hard enough to diagnose many issues even with the vehicle right in front of you.

Probably sounds like a great idea at first until you have 2 women nagging you at you all the time.

I use Zinsser oil primer, seals everything and sands great.

I should have said it doesn't stick well. Had one cabinet peel, it was clearly over a Bondo area. Ever since i just don't risk it and mention it where i can.

I only use a textured roller on pro sound cabinets, the Purdy microfiber roller leaves a smoother more even finish. You will need to water the Duratex down for this, just a little bit or its ruined. Duratex does not stick to Bondo, you must prime. As for the brace nothing near 18" span should be acceptable, even the low cost cabinet kits have enough thought to use proper bracing.

That front panel where the woofer is firing needs bracing the most, not one yet i have seen has bracing. Move the woofer 1-2" so the woofer is centered in the driver chamber, then you will have plenty of material to glue up that brace properly.

Pressures are highest in the driver chamber and the first few feet of the horn, my experience tells me a span of that width needs bracing. Run a frequency sweep with some good power and check the panel directly in front of the driver (over the horn mouth).

Not a horn, its a dual reflex bandpass design. If you want a real upgrade instead of a marginal one you could go DIY horn, find a used one or go to the BFM builders page. The Table Tuba should be an option under a grand.