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jason str

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Everything posted by jason str

  1. jason str

    F20 braces

    I use Zinsser oil primer, seals everything and sands great.
  2. jason str

    F20 braces

    I should have said it doesn't stick well. Had one cabinet peel, it was clearly over a Bondo area. Ever since i just don't risk it and mention it where i can.
  3. jason str

    F20 braces

    I only use a textured roller on pro sound cabinets, the Purdy microfiber roller leaves a smoother more even finish. You will need to water the Duratex down for this, just a little bit or its ruined. Duratex does not stick to Bondo, you must prime. As for the brace nothing near 18" span should be acceptable, even the low cost cabinet kits have enough thought to use proper bracing.
  4. jason str

    F20 braces

    That front panel where the woofer is firing needs bracing the most, not one yet i have seen has bracing. Move the woofer 1-2" so the woofer is centered in the driver chamber, then you will have plenty of material to glue up that brace properly.
  5. jason str

    F20 braces

    Pressures are highest in the driver chamber and the first few feet of the horn, my experience tells me a span of that width needs bracing. Run a frequency sweep with some good power and check the panel directly in front of the driver (over the horn mouth).
  6. Not a horn, its a dual reflex bandpass design. If you want a real upgrade instead of a marginal one you could go DIY horn, find a used one or go to the BFM builders page. The Table Tuba should be an option under a grand.
  7. 2 of these. <link> If its a very large loft consider 2 of the 15" versions. Good performers and 5 year warranty.
  8. Deal of a lifetime. Missing some tweeter arrays but those would be minor cost if you went with Piezo's.
  9. Full range with lower power amps or properly crossed over to a sub near 90 Hz its a great alternative.
  10. You can use Arauco Radiata pine 1/2" as well if you like to save a bit. The amount of plywood you will need depends on cabinet width you intend to build.
  11. Either will coast along even at ear bleeding volumes.
  12. 2 wider Table Tuba's. The standard recommended 10 is all you need, that other driver needs a gasket to mount and will only net you a negligible advantage in output in this design. Used dozens of that 10 & 12" Dayton classic in other designs with zero problems.
  13. There is no comparison, even the smaller Table Tuba with an 8" driver would be a substantial upgrade.
  14. Basics first, check for leaks. Run a 20 Hz tone through the system and use a small vacuum line (1/4" or so) one end to your ear and the other go around all the seams, feet and such. You will hear any leak once you run into one. Cracked basket frames, check them well. Loose components, check by hand. Unplug the unit first of course.
  15. Roofing ice damming material with the sticky back works too. Used the stuff from McMaster-Carr as well. Most of my use was automotive related but same stuff.
  16. Lysol kills mold on contact, do not dampen the cone.
  17. Has the mold eaten through the cone ? Hold a flashlight on one side and look at it from the other side. If its OK and you're not sure if the mold is dead spray it lightly with Lysol to kill it. Check for leaks and may as well run the drivers out of the cabinet to eliminate those.
  18. If you are crossing those mains over properly to a sub i would go Kappa 15C. You will be OK with a smaller tube amp as well. No sub and like it loud i would go K-33, K-43 or Crites pressed basket model. In case it has not been mentioned run a brace across the horn mouth continuing it through the driver chamber.
  19. Either way one of the horns are installed properly.
  20. Those tweeters are installed improperly.
  21. Here is a little one <link> Not exactly low output either, it would give a pretty good sized pro sound cabinet a run for its money.
  22. The La Scala bass bin is a short horn, subs are a different design. At the expense of output. Small driver, small horn = low output.
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