JohnA

Never. That is the antithesis of everything I want from my audio system. If the recording sucks, play another one. Get the DVD-A version of it.

Still not as big as mine, Marvel.

DO NOT use a 9V battery to test a tweeter. And when testing a tweeter, keep one lead moving so it never sees DC, but gets a series of pulses that cause a scratching sound. Use only a 1.5V battery on tweeters and then, it's best only to test it in lieu of an ohm meter. 1.5V is also plenty to verify the polarity of a woofer. 9 volts across a tweeter is 10 watts, if the battery can supply the current. Many tweeters cannot tolerate 10 watts.

If you have nothing to complain about, you have nothing to do. With such new speakers, there is likely no objective improvement possible. Were they 40 years old, .... we could talk.

I have several K-77s, $75 + shipping from 37343. Assume 4 lbs and a 6" cube for each. I have 2 K-55-Vs, $100 each + shipping. One is a spring terminal and the other is a solder terminal, but it has a rub/ring after having the diaphragm replaced. Assume 6 lbs and an 8" cube for each. These were my back-ups that I'm sure I'll never need, now.

Location? Which tri-state?

I think so. Which crossover do the 1.5s have? That will help determine whether the K-52 has as much output as a K-55-V.

As in the old Type A Klipsch crossover, a 9 kHz theoretical crossover point is needed to protect the tweeter from low frequencies. Don't change it. What is the DCR of the tweeter? What happens if you use a 1.5V battery across its leads, rubbing one lead? Is its output similar to the woofer tested the same way?

My VMPS subwoofers are tightly stuffed with fiberglass that looks like insulation grade fiberglass. It's yellow. https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/avid-thread.116894/ The OEM tweeter description sounds like the tweeter in Marantz Imperial 7s among others. Not sure how to id the OEM CTS woofer, unless Eminence has old CTS data.

The woofer is modelled (or trial and error tested in the old days) for its frequency response with a certain amount of damping material. The material makes the box volume behave as though it is different because it changes its "springiness". As though it is larger, I believe.

Why would you even consider changing the damping material or amount? Fiberglas does not deteriorate. I recommend you replace the original material the factory determined to be correct. Your range of 50% is no guidance at all.

K-77-Ms tend to have more output at the highest frequencies. Some say the K-77s have more detail because of the AlNiCo magnets. I would use the K-77-Ms with Z-brackets unless you are putting them in a sealed or ported cabinet like Heresy or Cornwall.

LOL! Most of that stuff fits in one box, now. But, now I see why they call them shacks. And the retailer's name......

Beautiful job on your SKs! And, ... Great news about Gil! I hear from him periodically, randomly. I'm glad to get the new phone. I'll call. He had asked me to call, but I could not get an updated number when one of the old ones quit working.

You are reading through the crossover, so the capacitors make it read open. You'll have to disconnect each driver from the crossover to measure it. To measure impedance, you'll need a meter that can test at different AC frequencies. Mine will, but at only 400 Hz, below the HF crossover point.

Cool! I only have an HT, for now, and am finding more local repeater all the time. We have over 30 repeaters in the area. With so many, few are active. The 8 or 10 GMRS repeaters are much more active. I've already figured out an HF antenna will not work on my tiny lot, plus, no one else in the subdivision has an external antenna. I have a CB antenna with sloping radials in the attic that works great. The GRMS antenna up there, not so much. I'm looking at a 6m/2m/70cm Comet, but it is over 8' tall plus tower. Any suggestions are welcome. The primary objective for 6m will be talking to the Nashville area.

Don't feel awkward, many of us have gone through cancer. I am a 2 time survivor. One was prostate cancer, surgery 8 years ago this month; the year I turned 57. I will pray for you, brother.

Don't be afraid, start with a PSA test. If you have a family history of prostate or breast cancer get at least annual PSAs. The same gene mutation that "causes" breast cancer "causes" prostate cancer

THAT shows your age. And I remember Muntz, sorta like another audio known for similar quality.

How many Hams do we have on the forum?? I just got my Technician and I know of one other. KQ4HXX

Schu, that sounds horrendously expensive and the panels' lifespan is 20 years. I wish i'd seen this earlier. I have a small system (240 panel watts) I built to teach myself how to build and operate PV systems. I may use one on a mountain cabin. One trick is to use Li batteries. You can use a larger %-age of their capacity without causing damage. At least in the SE US, electricity is cheap enough PVs can't compete unless you have a remote location with high cost to pull in grid power. If you do it yourself, the right way (no batteries, thus no back-up power), you can make PVs pay for themselves. I designed my system to power its inverter and loads for 3 days without sun and that was good for most years. However, in the last 12 months, I have had at least 2 episodes when I got no appreciable PV generation for 4 and 5 days. The reason I have LiFePO4 batteries is because one of those events happened when I was out of town and my PbSO4 batteries were pulled so low they were damaged. I have even had to put an AC charger on the Li batteries twice to keep the voltage from going too low. I have enjoyed building and upgrading my PV system and I love the idea that I have some power, no matter what happens, but the cost and poor, but improving, PV efficiency prevent it from being ready for prime time. I would do it all over again, knowing what I learned, but as a hobby. I now have a light over a work bench (1st objective) and can power 3 battery chargers, 3 lights, a receiver and speakers and two 2-way radios, all at once, for a while.

You do have room for Fortes. I very much like the IVs; they have similar drivers to the Heresy IVs. The distance to the wall is very flexible and room dependent. You might find 150mm is good. Your Reference center will not match the Heritage sound well, but you might not mind. I did not dislike my old KLF-C7 between La Scalas. Heresy IVs do not need a subwoofer for music. I recommend them wholeheartedly. You will want to keep your subwoofers for the special effects channel. The open E of a double bass/electric bass is down a little from the G, but you might think it was recorded that way. H IVs are quite accurate and sound natural. They will have the "size" and clarity you want, I believe. Sound comes out of mine whole and there is no way to identify the location of the drivers, unlike my H Is. I assume other members of the RF family do not meet your desires.

If you look at earlier E-V data sheets, you'll find a dispersion graph. Though you are correct that the T-35 is a diffraction horn, it's dispersion is wider above 6k Hz with mounted horizontally.

Listening through my headphones, I hear a crackling that often indicates amplifier clipping (over-driving). Your description of flub, flub, that i don't hear, could describe "port chuffing". While normal, it *is* undesirable. Your Cornwalls were not built with the massive lows special effects contain, so it it is port chuffing, all you can do is reduce the bass boost or the volume. That will also reduce amp clipping. If you have the bass boosted, reduce that the move them closer to corners and the walls to help recover that bass output. It's easy enough to remove the backs and inspect the woofers. If they are damaged, replacements are readily available and also recone kits.