JohnA

The tweeter, squawker and crossover look correct. Their is no Subwoofer/sub. The WOOFER is not correct, but a K-22-? of any variation will work properly.

I have had a new pair of speakers that needed 40 to 50 hours for the woofer to loosen up and make enough bass. I have never noticed any SS electronics change sound over any amount of time.

I replaced the terminals in some of my Heresies with terminal cups. Round are trivial to cut, install and seal. https://www.parts-express.com/Gold-Banana-5-Way-Recessed-Speaker-Terminal-Round-260-311?quantity=1

Can you get the electronic crossovers and power amps? I'd offer them with those and give the option of the buyer installing his own passive crossovers. The original crossovers aren't in an old box are they?

X is 1982. If the squawker (midrange) driver has soldered terminals (likely it does), you have one of the best sounding Heresy Is. Since they are Birch, Raw, expect $300 to $600 depending on actual condition and where you live.

We forum nerds have informally called '84 and '85 models Heresy 1.5s. They were transition years between Heresy and Heresy II. They have HII squawkers and HI woofer/tweeters and a matching crossover.

More than that, even. I would start it on the 4 ohm taps, but also try the 8s.

A passive radiator is a substitute for a resonant port. It has the advantage of also limiting the woofer's travel below resonance (protecting the woofer from very low bass notes). Do not change or modify it. Do not remove it, the cabinet volume is sized to use a passive radiator and will probably be too big for the woofer if you remove it. Adding a second active woofer will require a cabinet with double the volume of one with a single woofer. If you want deeper bass, add a good subwoofer (sound lower/under a woofer). If you want louder bass, move them closer to a corner or add EQ.

Very much untrue. "Phono" has much more gain and a built-in eq for the records. It boosts bass and cuts treble to compensate for the eq cut into the record (so the stylus can stay in the grooves). The OP's post sounds like he already has it plugged into "Line".

Yeah, look for a universal player. I am well pleased with my Sony UBP-X1100ES. You should find DVD-Audio a treat, if you haven't listened to one. Call Paducah Home Theater, they should treat you right. Wouldn't hurt to mention this Forum when you call.

Unless you really live in the sticks, any machine shop can do it for little cash. Take the horn and/or a driver to match the thread.

I would go all 12v auto or marine gear and use auto electronic crossovers. Some of the amps have crossovers inside and many of the head units have digital delays built in. You can use inverters to turn 12v into 120v, but you lose some power in the conversion. Car batteries parallel easily for longer service.

Were I you, I'd be looking at Forte IVs or IIIs. However, Heresy IVs are Excellent and will be quite good near the wall/corners of your room. I do not feel the need for subwoofers with my H IVs.

Yes, I dropped the taps on the T2A, so the response curve is flatter (reduced the rising response by 3 dB). The result is the woofer at 94 dB/w/m, squawker at 95 dB and the tweeter at 96dB. My center floats in the air above the TV without much wall reinforcement, so I like the subdued squawker and tweeter better.

The tweeter should be 7.5, the squawker should be 12 - 12.5 and the woofer should be 6-ish, unless a K-22-EF and it will be 8.3-ish. I had a K-77 tweeter with loose terminals that didn't always contact the voicecoil leads. Manipulating the tweeter often gave good DCRs, until I noticed the terminal moved.

Having had Type AL La Scalas and Type AA La Scalas in the same room, at the same time, the reputation of the Type AL is very well deserved. I would update them to Type AL-3.

Were they mine, I'd replace the caps in kind on both, convert the Type D to "E" and replace the K-52-H with a K-55-V. If the crossover schematics are no longer on the Forum, send me a PM. If you can find 2 solder terminal K-55-Vs they are all the better.

If they didn't have ferrofluid, they don't need any. If it had it, I would recover all I could and reuse it. Unless the voice coil failed, there should be no reason to "change" it and maybe not then.

I did that to my center channel Heresy so it matches my Type AA La Scalas as much as practical. The Type AA filter EQs the driver a little, but the Type E network compensates for the K-77s response hump well enough and the auto former protects it well enough, too. You may not notice much difference.

As you'd expect, a Beretta is a nice piece of kit! Blocks have their place, though. 😄

Convert those to Type AL-3. Type ALs are aweful.

The K-77-M is substantially more durable with a 10w cont. rating. In a home setting they are not at much risk so you can defeat the KLiP diodes. I would not recommend that for Pro Audio.

Yes, it was. The bulb and resistor form an L-pad (~1 dB, maybe 1.5] until the bulb heats and its resistance rises.

Nice find! If you keep them, you'll want them on the floor and just a few inches off the wall or corner to get better bass from them. You can expect them to need several days for the woofers to loosten up and make full bass output. Ultimately, you may want a subwoofer, too. Many of us do.

I heartily agree with Dean. I've had them and the Type AL is a miserable crossover.