JohnA

Mine do the trick when placed in a corner. One or two RSW-15s will do as well.

It won't hurt a bit. Even the HII has a pretty wide impedance curve. My His vary from 7.5 ohms to 120 ohms in the midrange. However, why would you want to? If the woofer runs at 4 and the squawker and tweeter are higher, running on the 4 ohm tap is a little safer for the amp.

"Green Grass and High Ti ...." Ah, yeah! "Castles of stone, soul and glow-ree, ..." No, Mr. P, I don't believe you'd recognize Andy at all. He's a decent looking gentleman these days! If we get another "Visit to the Klipsch Kingdom" together, you should come along. We all love to hear stories about the factory and rubber bricks and the like.

This will make your Heresy sound much more like your K-horns. My center Heresy is this way and it matches my La Scalas well.

Call Klipsch and buy a set of "Z" brackets that mount the tweeters flush with the front of the cabinet. They help a lot! You will have to enlarge the tweeter hole to use them. They are now installed at the factory on La Scalas as well as the Belle and K-horn.

I'd probably pick an Altec Model 19.

You are ignored.

Wow, Andy! I'd have never recognized you if you hadn't said which one you were!

The -3 dB point for the tweeter is 6000 Hz. It will work with any 8 ohm K-77-x or T-35x. The bulb and resistor form a 1 dB L-pad and tweeter protector. The Heritage tweeters are really 105 dB/w/m, but Klipsch dealt with that using lossy tweeter circuits in some of their crossovers. As a result, the tweeter is hot to me since I'm used to the Type AA network. The bulb will limit long term power to the tweeter to about 2 watts or so, as best as I can measure and simulate with DC. It will not seriously effect transients. The K-77 has a power rating of 2 watts continuous/20 watts program and the K-77-M has a 5/50 watt rating. Unless you have drunks or teenagers running your system, the bulb should be plenty. It won't be as harsh as the diodes Klipsch once used and about as good as the polyswitch they use now.

I rather see the autoformer and woofer inductor on opposite sides of the board plus one rotated 90 degrees so they can't interfere with each other.

A crossover is an electrical network that divides audio frequencies between 2 or more drivers. An HF crossover is either the portion of the network that sends highs to the tweeter or the point in frequency where the transition occurs. There is no "good" number without knowledge of the tweeter used. If the tweeter is known, then a decision can be made about the crossover frequency and the protection from damage to the tweeter it offers.

It sounds like you need to get a copy of the "Loudspeaker Design Cookbook" by Dickason(?). You don't have to analyze ans understand the equations to get a lot out of it. Later, you can go back and use those equations to do the design work yourself.

That looks like 1994 models. About that time the 5th &6th characters were the Yr in reverse.

Kuol!

For SALE! not "for sell" Pet peeve; what happened to English classes?

W is 1981. One of mine is 28W186.

I'd Keep the T3A. I had a pair of '87 La Scalas; my brother has them now. As soon as I could get Al to make a set of crossovers, I replaced them. If you are not going to build a set of ALKs, I'd turn the Type ALs into Type AAs or this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3701567878&category=16219 Another single. I e-mailed him and he described the bass horn and a single rectangle at the top (?). He knows little else and could not send a picture.

I'm here. They sound like the Larger Subwoofer. Mine mate well with my La Scalas when powered by an Acurus A250 (450 wpc into 4 ohms). To match any Klipsch they will meed a muscle amp like the A250. BTW, at 16 Hz mine are 4 dB below my La Scalas at 1000 Hz, in my room. I bought my pair for $350 each, used.

Dutch's doesn't have the La Scala bass horns any more. I called. Woulda bought them.

Well, Mr. P, Some of us have discovered the brace ourselves and I'd have to agree it could easily be ugly. Mine had already been finished beautifully before I decided the side walls of the bass horn needed stiffening. i'm not willing to risk screwing them up to add the brace, now. Confirming my suspicions is/was the HPS4000 version if the La Scala and, of course, the Peavey FH1. I did not realize what the brace did in the FH1, and didn't see the HPS4000 until after I bought my La Scalas.

A guy at work is having trouble with his RF-5s. The trouble turns out to be the settings in his receiver that he just can't figure out. We proved that be substituting a normal stereo receiver. His problem is the bass management settings.

Yeah, that sounds right. Where do you have the subwoofer sitting? I'd suggest placing it in a corner, with the port toward the room. Corner placement increases output. You then turn the amp down a little but it'll still get louder, but with less distortion, normally. (I know this is an oversimplification.) Corner placement has the tendency to excite all of your room resonances rather than just a few, making the sub's frequency response tend to be smoother.

The must do is to finish them! Be sure to use wood conditioner, and not sparingly, so the stain doesn't go splotchy.