Dave A

Can we get pictures of the back side too?

I would re-cap those crossovers and have a listen before I dropped money on new ones. Perhaps the best and cheapest thing you can do for those in my opinion. It would be my very first step before other things happened.

Combine this with Chris A's advice and go hear what he recommends in person somewhere. Listen to other systems before buying although I never followed that advice it is wise to do so when you decide to find what you really want. Go for the ones who are serious about the quality of sound and not looky what I have alphabet soup of overpriced name dropping stuff first and then sound. Just my opinion of course. I fully intend to incorporate some of what Chris says to do when I get my Super MWM's built and seek for things to go on top of it like 402's. If you are willing to build and have the space you can have truly remarkable sound for less than $6,000 even if you have to buy the K-402's new. I heard some Jubilees at Cory's a while back. None of the La Scala, Khorn etc stuff even comes close and you have to get up to at least KP-456's to rival it.

The beauty of modeling in 3D and not a dinosaur like Autocad is that you can duplicate reality and see parts fit up. 2D line drawing are fraught with ways to easily overlook errors.

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I bet three out of four times at least the final deal made is not what the original listing price was unless it was a good deal.

Sarc or do you have the list of shrillness index for various metals? On a serious note now......... I prefer Platinum speaker wire only the correct term is Audiophonic Master Conductor. The AMC is the very best because of it's specific gravity and resultant reduction of voids between atoms. Science has now proven that everything has weight and space and this includes electrons. Platinum resists the puddling of electrons where ever there is a dip in your conductors and they drift to your lowest point. With the specific gravity so high Platinum has less room for electron puddling. Have you ever heard a thump or pop when you turn your amp on? What causes this is the normal flow of electrons from your amp + puddled electrons accumulated in the low points of your speaker wires joining together and causing a temporary surge. AMC will basically eliminate this and just in case in long runs make sure to keep the speaker wire dead level so things can't pile up or at a slight drop so it all drains off into your drivers as you shut down.

I grew the brown Jolokias next to some Carolina Reapers this year and just like the Amish farmer who used to raise some for me I had crossbreeding problems. Keep those two separated by some distance if you want consistent results.

Buy two conductor by the 50" roll at PE. I normally buy 12 to 14 gauge which is gross overkill for the job I expect it to do but then I never have to worry about using it on other speakers either. Some of mine have far more demand than Cornwalls. Speaker cables have absolutely nothing to do with shrill unless you somehow are getting some sort of electronic interference from another device. I use banana's for convenience because I am constantly moving things around but after a while they can get loose and can cause poor connections. For my quasi permanent hookups I use the fork end crimp connectors and they work forever. People will talk you into expensive wires that do nothing but conduct electricity like the cheap ones do. It is crazy how much some will spend and at Audiogon you can spend $20,000.00 on a set and the snake oil that comes with it is the exciting bonus.

There you go and a correct answer. My preference is like Moray's and I am a big fan of Chorus if it is to be veneer and not Pro black.

Those old caps are not helping either. I have yet to find a crossover with those on it that measured right.

You hit on a very key point here and it is the reason I only sell speakers in person. We all have somewhat subjective opinions as to what sounds best once you get past specs and charts. Once a set of KP-450's arrived here a whole world opened up that I had no idea existed. I am fortunate in that I have had a chance to listen to a wide variety of Klipsch here in my shop and play with them at length so my opinion as to what sounds good varies from many who have never heard various speakers. You judge things on what you have heard after all.

Precisely. It is reality not psychology speaking to you.

I have never heard the Heresy III but the physical limitations size places on it would rule it out for me. That new one has a spec sheet that says it only goes down to 58hz. So I wont hear my lower five string bass notes, my organ music, my lower Cello notes, bigger bass drums and if you like electronic music like dub forget even getting out of bed to listen. One of my favorite test songs is "Lazy" by Deep Purple and this Heresy will miss parts of that organ intro. There are more songs than you think that have deeper bass that will never show up on these Heresy's. That these are articulate in their limited range I can believe but why would I do that when by my music preferences that Chorus will fulfill 90% plus of what I listen to. Now there is another thing I like about the Chorus and that is presence. Bigger yields better presence and that does matter. My preference would also be to not have to add a subwoofer but rather to have a purpose designed cabinet that would allow for sufficient drivers for my needs. That Chorus woofer is a great clean sound and I find the subs I have had here go deeper but muddy up things so while I can rattle the table with them they do not have real good definition. Stock Heresy's are high end book shelf speakers is what I think. Chorus is getting into the concert hall.

OK I stuck these in my Chorus I's and had a listen last night. The only other mod was the crossovers have been re-capped. The HF102 has a ring neodymium magnet in it and is 107db. I did not run this very long so i can't speak to break in time nor what the difference might be. Smaller than the HF100 and DE120 it bolted on and fit right in no problems. It was fairly sibilant and more so than the DE120 but using EQ and lowering the 2-4khz range seemed to quiet the harsh cymbals down and made things like Violins much better. In every speaker I have used the DE120 in only the Forte II needed an L-PAD. I can see that more might need it with the HF102. For my purposes I think that EQ tinkering and break in will solve the problem. After breaking in the DE120 shed it's shrillness and was very pleasing and it is probable the HF102 will do the same thing. It is the same price basically as the DE120 and it is small enough to be used on the K-77 replacement tweeter. The HF100 is larger and will only work here with the larger MAHL horn lens. It will require that you take the mid horn out and access the back side of the tweeter since you will have to screw the clamp plate on after the horn lens is screwed to the motorboard. This thing is $59 and sounded much better than the DE120 or HF102 right out of the box. While I have also heard the DE110 and DE10 I did not do so side by side like I did with the HF102, HF100 and DE120 last night and memory is not good enough to make a comment on. I am really impressed with this one and expect it to be perhaps the best one to be tested yet. So lets see, cheaper and better so far and not broken in to boot. If this improves as much as the DE120's have after breaking in it will be the one I recommend in the future. I would have thought that the better 108db efficiency would have made the potential shrill problem worse but perhaps that has more to do with magnet types. I intend to leave these in for a while as I like them a lot. Who knows I may change my EBay and Craigslist ads to have the Faitals in them and not the DE120's.

Bob Crites will also sell you a purpose designed to better specs 2.5mh and others for the same price. Unless I am getting an Esre Super Q I buy from him. I have measured the ones I get from both places and they are MUCH closer tolerance than 15%

I probably did not spend enough time there looking.

So I am finding out. It is worthwhile to learn but it would sure be nice to have a physical mentor for something like this. Trial and error gets tedious quickly.

OK what are you answering?

I have some Mahogany stain and and it made it very dark and not reddish. From what I gather looking around today I need a dye more than a stain and the Watco can be used. Can't seal or oil this until I have a decent color match. I have a lot to practice on before the install so there is that. I will try pictures tomorrow.

OK be forewarned. The first three pictures on this listing were lifted from my EBay or Craigslist list ads for my set of KP-301's. Please note the MCM 1900 behind them which I highly doubt this dude has in his shop and placed perfectly too just like mine are for "his" pictures. Either very lazy or hiding something is what I figure.

I have a set of Forte II's with the front top strip of Walnut veneer in bad shape and removed. Bought a roll of veneer that will bond to the substrate with heat but my problem is duplicating that reddish aged color. Any suggestions? What is the best way to precisely cut this veneer for correct fit also and tips on this are welcome.

I will have those answers soon as a set of each is going away for testing tomorrow. Just got them in yesterday and I will probably put them in a set of Chorus I's I have here for an initial unscientific listening session tonight or tomorrow.

That I can believe as a lot of those joints show incomplete solder flow. It is one of the biggest problems in Tig welding too for beginners or those who just don't have the aptitude for welding. Not enough heat causes just as many problems as too much heat.

Thanks and I will look for it.