parlophone1

Very nice looking, with these bright colored grills.

What about these apps, for example https://tinnitus-off.com/

Do you use it? Sorry, just saw your post in What I got today thread, mods can erase this one.

Neil Young's Harvest Remaster from original master tapes, sounds very nice to me.

I know what you mean by going downhill. I am not planning on spining in lightning speed, breaks should do the trick. Since bike is equiped with flip-flop hub, it also has both brakes. But untill about 30 mph I should be able to spin. I found out that it is 46 front and 16 on the rear wheel. The second on the rear would be 18. That one should be enough for hills and single speed. And the frame is DeRosa . Last generation before todays modern steel frames. It can be adapted to geared bike with modern drivetrains.

Well that advantage they are lighter also has to be put in the right context. For example, the one that I am looking for is a steel frame and weighs around 20-22 lbs. Compared with similar geared frames it is lighter. However, cheapest aluminum geared racing bikes these days are lighter than that for about 4 lbs. Less to go wrong - that I agree, it is the simplest form of bicycle. I am not into braking the bike with the strength of my legs, that is why brakes on fixie is a must for me. Slowing down with my legs - yes, within reasonable.

Good to hear that part of the story. I guess that you were to much accustomed to coasting. Thanks.

Thanks, and yes, the bike has plip-flop hub, just have to install the second chain ring on the other side of the hub. I rode it shortly around the bike shop. Have to admit it was a funny feeling, but as long as both efficient brakes are on it my fear is not that big. With bigger gear ratio I can not skid anyway, so having breaks is obligatory in my view. Going up on long hills is also no-no for me unless lowering gear ratio, as well as going steep downhill (but that is what breaks are for). Short hills can be attacked but not the long ones. If I put the freewheel in function than I loose the fixed transmission, and then the whole thing will be pointless. That certainly sounds in line with comments that fixed bikes are crippled, but still I can imagine it can be fun if learned how to ride it safely and without many hills. It reminds me on photographing with old manual film cameras. Have to manually adjust all settings before pressing the shutter, but it provide that certain feeling of closeness with the camera. However, I know when to haul my Nikon F2 and when to take my all automatic SLR. There's a tool for every assignment. I also can understand what Schu is saying and that is where my rational thinking clicks in.

Thanks for all advice. I was also under the same impression. But I am not much into trends. If I were then I would get one 4-5 years ago. I am somewhat intrigued by all positive experiences from people that use fixed gear bikes regularly, not just try and let go. Among them there are experienced bikers and (former) competitors. I understand that some time trialists still use them for competing. The momentum gained when wheels are moving intrigues me. That is supposed to help also on mild inclines. I should say that I use my old 10-speed for occasional commute to work (about 10-12 miles in one direction). On my way home I have steady incline of about 7 miles so I have some strength in my legs. I do weekends recreational rides on my trek FX that is adjusted more for the road, having Continental slicks and riding clipless. Rides of 50-60 miles are not a problem but I am not going fast. For fixed I was not planing to use it on long distance or conquering mountain passes. Just attracted with nice steel compact racing frame and matching fork as well as the philosophy around them. May be just for gaining strength and having some fun. It has front and rear racing breaks so this is covered. I do not like to skid-brake even if it would not cost me new tires. It is around 300 bucks. With not so light wheels and big frame I would say it weights around 20-22 lbs. If going for a bike with gears I would not go under Shimano Tiagra or 105 set with lighter wheels and that puts me at least double price (even on discounts) comparing to that fixie.

I have been using Okki Nokki cleaning machine. Local record store had one and offered cleaning services for their customers. Now its gone and will have to find another place. When entering into the world of records I bought a cheap cleaning kit containing isopropil alcohol but have cleaned just a few old scratched LPs with that.

I have chance to buy a new fixed gear bike with very nice steel luged frame from 1980s. It is new old stock frame. Everything else on the bike is ordinary. It is assembled by local bike shop. I went through reviews and opinions on the net, Sheldon Brown site. I have tried this bike in nearby alley. Opinions are divided. Avid cyclists that ride geared machines are mostly against fixed gear unless used on a velodrom, for which they are made. But there are also those who are pro fixed gear and are using them regularly. I understand the difficulties of riding a fixed gear oi inclines abd fast downhils as well as driving in hevy city trafic. If any of the forum members have first hand opinions I would appreciate to read. Thanx.

Dance dance dance by Steve Miller Band

I like Duals, almost picked up 1019 a few years ago, but it was not in a good shape. As well as 701 and CS505 and CS7000 Golden One. Almost got that Golden but we could not agree on price, the owner asked too much.

Klipsch in China, Infinities in USA, all other gear from European countries or Japan.

The stated price is for what they are going over here in Europe market, if you can find them at all. Wish you luck on that pair...

VanDenHul is a Dutch company specialized in variety of hi-fi products. One of them are cables, which they produce in many variations and for various purposes (speaker cables, interconnects…). The prices of cables vary from low (like Clearwater cable, for which I paid 50$ for 4 meters) to high (i.e. 3T The CUMULUS Limited Edition Hybrid – 2 meter pair is 4.700$) and they have more expensive cables than that. Their interconnects are very good. They also have very good turntable cartridges, but their mid-level Frog is 2,000$). I would not go that far and say that difference between my KnuKonzeptz and VandenHul is impressive, but is audible to me. I do not know what causes that effect but suspect that it might be connected with low capacitance and resistance of the wires, which is why I mentioned it. After all, we all tend to use some measurable data that are relevant and documented on the subject. Since the price for VanDenHuls was acceptable to me (as was with KnuKonzeptz) I gave them a try. In 32blownhemi’s case that might be different. He mentioned acquiring the Karma Knukonzeptz and I have Kord Ultraflex. Might do some difference. His LaScalas are much more sensitive and altogether different speakers. And so on... P.S. it is always amusing for me to go to speaker cable manufacturers site and read about the the terms the use, for example Hulliflex (http://www.vandenhul.com/cable-technologies/hulliflexr-pvc-halogen-free-insulation).

Just go for Cables - Speaker cables. There are a few categories, but I suspect you might go for twin lead. Many of them are sold in bulk 100m, you can have them cut to your measurements.

Do you have panels only on the ceiling or they are installed on the walls as well?

Knu - go for Home theatre - Speaker wire. You have 5 categories of wires. Mine are Kord. Maybe other types of wires are different ...10 gauge is a thick wire, that is why i terminated them. For old type speaker connection that has just a tiny holes even 12/14 gauge probably wont fit.

Whose website? Knu?

I don't know. I chose the wires based on many good reviews on the internet. I know 10 gauge is overkill but was going to try out of curiosity. Clerwaters are about the same money and they came up better for me. I did not see any measurements for Knu but Clearwaters are low capacitance ( 17.5 pF/m ) and resistance wires ( 0.9 Ohm/100m). Maybe that is what makes a difference here.

I have Knu Kord ultraflex 10 gauges. So they are not Karma wires. Terminated them with forks on one end and banana plugs on other. Have tried them with my Klipsch RF42II and Infinities Qb. Mid and high frequencies were ok on both speakers but low freqs were muddy. Replaced them with VanDenHul Clerwater and they are better in both my systems. High frequencies become more clear (Cristal clear ), mids are more articulated and lows are much more defined than with Knus, wich are now in the closet. Just my 2 coins.

Any pictures?

If not used, then maybe some cheaper entry level new. What kind of a console do you have? I am asking just with regard any possible restrictions to mount a TT. Want any automation? A lot of my friends are happy with entry level ProJects and Regas. ProJect maybe before Rega because they seem to be better made at that price point. ProjJect Carbon Debut comes to my mind. You have maybe more choices in there in USA, U-Turn?. That is entry level and many owners are happy with them. If direct-drives are in the picture, than Audio-Technicas?

I also visit such shops occasionally. Have listened to the same equipment in acoustically treated rooms, and more than just occasionally left the place with mixed feelings and disappointment. The detail was there but something was missing, not sure exactly what. I heard more music from DIY speakers made by my friend listening better recordings from youtube. And his speakers are in the living room without any care for room treatment and speaker positioning. Big Sonus Fabers are often just too thin to my ears, may be it is a matter of matching.