Dkfan9

So the thought that comes to my head is that these are NOS drivers which can garner a higher profit in a newly built finished product than as replacements. I don't know if that's the case, just seems more likely than every part being built new.

It's not uncommon for a modern 10" sub to dig way lower than an older 12" fuller range woofer. The drivers are constructed differently (one for exclusively low frequencies, one for up to 700hz or higher). The subwoofer driver is most likely lower sensitivity and higher power handling, as there's always a trade-off between sensitivity and depth all else equal. The sub is ported, while the Heresy is not, and probably has a more optimized box volume for bass. So that's all going to make a big difference, as is the fact that you can't level match the more sensitive Heresy horns and the less sensitive woofer unless you're using EQ, while you can and I'm sure will level match the Heresy and the sub, either by measurements, auto correction, or ear. All of that is going to play a bigger role in sub vs Heresy sound than a vintage receiver.

First, though, check to make sure the metal connectors between the top and bottom binding posts on the back of the speakers are still secure

An easy way to check if it's the tweeter is to swap the tweeter. You can pry off the plastic around the drivers fairly easily (though it may not seem easy at first), then unscrew the horn. You'll have to disconnect the tweeter (tape the wires up so you don't lose them in the box), and then do the same on the other speaker. Plug the non working tweeter into the working speaker and see if it produces sound. If so, it is likely a crossover issue.

I noticed this the other day. Weird

To make sure I'm understanding correctly, you do not want any EQ in your preamp, but you want EQ by finding an amp with a non flat frequency curve? EQ in the pre amp or outboard EQ stage is best because you can control it, while at the amp stage it is not defeatable if rooms or speakers change.

Cool! Thanks

I figured WAF might be a driving factor. See what you can do. And I might be wrong on what will sound better in your room, since the room is almost as important as the speakers to how a setup sounds. Your soundstage might narrow a bit with toe in, but you can play with it to optimize between center stability and soundstage width.

It looks like Klipsch is unloading a lot of old stuff... The main site has RF82IIs and others in that series up for sale.

When was this posted? I don't see it after scrolling down a bit.

Is it possible to move the front speakers forward and/or move the sub? It looks like a lot of early reflections are being introduced by having your speakers back there. Additionally, a phantom center might work better with the speakers toed in, which wouldn't work with your sub there. I found that without toe in, the center image shifted significantly to whichever side I moved to when off axis, while toeing in stabilized it greatly.

First picture with no grilles that I've seen. Top right in attached picture. Looks like a Reference Premiere horn.

Tempting...

Was all your auditioning on the Academy done without stands? I ask because I can't imagine many speakers sounding great with the tweeter that far off axis, and especially so in the Academy's case, since it's an MTM and in vertical mode that means a lot of lobing, and in horizontal mode it has 90 degree vertical dispersion, i'd assume leading to pretty strong interference from floor bounce. I'm not saying the Academy is better than the other centers mentioned (it's the only center I've had in my home so I can't say much), just that judging it so far off axis is unfair given its dispersion characteristics.

It really varies from person to person on whether direct firing is better or not. Obviously, you have direct firing currently. What do you feel is missing in your current surrounds? Additionally, are you wall mounting the surrounds, or will they go on stands?

$1550 for P17Bs, $360 for R-28Fs, $230 for Academy, $200 for KTDS, $475 for Bowers CM5, $0 for AR215PS... The latter two won't be in use until after moving. So coming in just south of 2500 now, gonna go up as I add subs, a pair of diy speakers, and utilize a second/third system in the future

Obviously, I'm bumping a very old topic here. The link above is dead, I'm wondering if the information is still available anywhere. I tried archive.org and had no luck

I think Audyssey has stopped using that classification, sticking to feature sets (level of multeq, subeq ht, and maybe one or two others), maybe due to the phasing out of Audyssey Pro capability

R-28F

Academy

Yeah, I'm also seeing very fuzzy when zoomed. Glad to know it's not just me

The second photo, is that a schematic of the modified crossover? And is that photo available in a higher resolution? I'm not able to read any of the values, at least in my screen.