CWelsh

Thank you for this. Now, let's see if I understand... It sounds to me like there is a phenomena of transconductance that occurs in any kind of amp design, but there are amps that are specifically designed to take advantage of that phenomena. What Shitt refers to, then, is a design that attempts to overcome that point where there is a shift from Class A to Class B operation and the current flow ceases (droops).

Fortes that fit nicely in the back of my SUV. Plus, we're only moving two miles. I'm glad you solved your problem.

Signore Thisup is clearly a very wise man.

We will be moving in a few months, and based on your experience, my speakers will travel in my car and I will load them myself...LOL Glad to hear your problems are solved.

Were there any rules prohibiting more cowbell? 🤣

Forgive me if this is an ignorant question, but where would the Schitt amps fall into this discussion. They call their amp design Continuity and describe it as: "Technically, Continuity is a way to eliminate transconductance droop outside of the Class A bias region, and extend the benefits of Class A biasing..."

I'm anxious to hear what you discover. I don't envy you the search for answers, though. Good luck!

Yup...sounds just like the kinds of things I do. Things like forgetting to put the strap between the input terminals back into place. DOH!

Now that you've had it up and running for a few days, do you have any updates on your thoughts? I assume it is still not the "perfect" integrated, but is it close?

They are gorgeous! Congratulations on the nice restoration work.

I suppose it is much like the common wisdom that English cars like Jaguar and Land Rover spend an inordinate amount of time in the shop. I've owned both and that hasn't been my experience at all.

When I auditioned my Forte llls at the dealer, he powered them with a re-capped 125 wpc Adcom and they blew me away. I'm using an upgraded Marantz 1060 and have more than enough power to hurt my ears. I'm thinking, however, that the day will come when I want to try something different. I think I would enjoy building a pair of ACAs to run as monoblocks, but wonder if more power would be better (a bit of FOMO, maybe?). I don't think I will ever spend a bunch of money on a variety of amps just to have options, but I do have a Rotel 100 wpc X 5 sitting in storage that I may haul out to experiment with...maybe try bi-amping...who knows.

Do you feel the same thing is true for a Class A SS amp?

Sounds like the beginning of a great PhD dissertation. I think I may start referring to myself as a Sound Absorber. It has a certain ring to it. 😉

I believe this may be a Hammond amp. https://dynacotubeaudio.forumotion.com/t2654-the-hammond-ao-58-1-a-hard-wired-dynaco-st-70-clone-from-the-1960-s

Up until this, I was really enjoying this thread...LOL

And, if the spots are really tough, try a 1/4 cup of ammonia per gallon of water and Dawn. The lambs wool scrubber and elbow grease will help, too.

I'm using Amazon Music Unlimited, but may look at some others in the future. My sound quality is excellent, too. At $8 per month, Amazon seems like a bargain.

I've had the Node about a week and I think it is fundamentally going to change the way I listen to music. Everything I listen to sounds at least as good as playing the same thing on my CD player, and I have access to so much more than I could ever purchase. See my comments below regarding the interface. I'm running BlueOS on an iPad and I've never tried using AMHD on Windows 10 so I can't compare. I will say I think the BlueOS interface could be improved and suspect it will be over time. I wouldn't call it awful, but it isn't the most intuitive navigation. Still, if I use the Search function, I can find what I want as long as it is in the catalog. And, I haven't tried building playlists or creating presets.

$3,198 from Crutchfield. 😄

As a former professional window cleaner, I do not recommend this. Clean newsprint paper, perhaps, but nothing with print on it. The old carbon-based inks would transfer to the glass making it "sparkle" but it was not clean. I can't tell you how many houses I cleaned where the black yuck dripped off the window. Almost as bad as tobacco smoke residue. Water and a bit of Dawn dish liquid is the secret recipe of most pros. Add a little vinegar if the windows are particularly dirty. The real secret on home windows is to use a good quality squeegee, but that is pretty difficult on curved car windows. Go for the microfiber towel.

Moonshine, among other things. 😉

Welcome to the forums. Sounds like you stumbled on to a fantastic find! You're going to have a lot of fun restoring and enjoying your new toys.

The PCM setting was the problem. Now I need to figure out why I can't change the eARC setting on my TV to ON rather than OFF, but that is a different issue. Thank you for your help.

Those look like garden hoses!!!