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Found 22 results

  1. DaveC83


    Good morning everyone just thought I'd share my excitement in purchasing a set of Klipsch RP600M which I plan to use them as my rear speakers, I'm currently a 7.2 surround sound through the pioneer vsx-933 at 80 watts to each channel I already have a set of of RP502S which produce amazing sound, my center channel is the klipsch R34C I'm hoping to upgrade to the RP504C in near future I also would like to purchase a set of RP8000F once I get the coin together, could anyone here recommend anything I might of missed I'm really new to this so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I believe my reciver should handle it as I was told by the store clerk that klipsch are a sensitive speaker P.S I've been looking at the SPL-102 for a latter as an upgrade to my Synergy Sub10 but that's further down the track
  2. In living this past year with the mods to my Heresy 1.5 for gravitas, scale and flat response (c.f. my last post), I discerned room for improvement. The lower treble still needed some smoothing, and the stereo image was unstable: moving my head quite slightly would sling the upper few octaves all over the place, and the left-right balance was never totally satisfying. (Bass was awesome, however.) The new drivers and cabinet porting had made huge improvements in the extremes of the audio band, but I wanted to try subtle changes to the crossover in order to fix smoothness and phase in the midrange and treble. I used the trial-and-error method with a real time analyzer, pink noise, and calibrated microphone while leaving the balancing network board external to the cabinet so as to see the results of crossover component value changes immediately in the response graph. Significant improvement was achieved by changing the tweeter section to a 7 kHz, 18 dB/octave high pass from last year’s 6kHz. This tipped up the response over 1.5 dB, contrasted to the previous x-over, from 15 kHz up to 20 kHz. This also made for less summing between the tweeter and squawker where their responses overlap. The squawker needed to have its top end slightly attenuated. I had been using the stock Klipsch configuration for the squawker, substituting a high quality poly film-and -foil capacitor of the stock 2 muF value for the original paper-in-oil can and continuing to use the number 2 tap on the T2A autotransformer. This works well to meld with the woofer but does nothing to calm the squawker’s upper end ( mortite on the horn has been tried by some on this forum for that), so I tried the easiest obvious thing, which was to shunt a capacitor across the squawker’s inputs. This is a way to knock highs off a driver’s upper end by essentially shorting only the highs to ground. The second order, low pass filter (which included a 33 muF cap added to the Heresy 1’s first order woofer crossover- i.e. just an inductor) that Klipsch used on the Heresy 1.5’s and 2’s woofer x-over is a handy case in point. Comparison of Klipsch’s schematics for the Heresy E and E2 crossovers indicates a phase difference introduced by the addition of the woofer cap, by way of the schematically notated inversion of polarity between the woofer and squawker in the Heresy 1’s E crossover (which inversion is absent in the Heresy 1.5’s and 2’s E2 crossover). Higher order phase difference will come into play later. The first value I tried in my squawker section was 18 muF, which sucked out too much low midrange. Trying successively smaller capacitor values, I arrived at near 5 muF in order to start attenuating high enough in the squawker’s range. RTA showed that the roll-off slope was a bit too steep, so I tried different audio grade resistors between the 5.1 muF cap and ground while watching the graph. Putting resistance between the 5.1 muF cap and the negative squawker input-i.e. signal ground-effectively reduces the overall amount of those particular highs allowed through the cap which get shorted to ground, shallowing the roll-off. Best results were obtained with the 9.1 ohm, 10W resistor I had in store. (A Mills non-inductive 12W resistor may be a better choice. ) Interestingly, the resistor’s insertion smoothed the bass response on the graph. The midrange response now is beautifully neutral, full and rich but never shrill; the treble is sweet, extended and clear. Another benefit of adding the cap to the squawker circuit is the phase shift (around 90 degrees ) that it contributes to the squawker, making it blend more coherently with the other drivers. The stereo image is solid, the soundstage stable, with instruments startlingly precisely located. Channel balance is now rock steady with no stereo wandering. Placed 2 feet from front wall, no subwoofers are necessary or wanted. Schematic for this latest and greatest mod is included. Drivers specified on this schematic and in my previous post are easily available online. Porting dimensions and woofer crossover values remain as per my previous post. These Heresy’s sound big, accurate and serious. Gravitas, exciting scale, powerful bass, beguiling mids, crystalline highs and imaging. Happy listening.
  3. Hello everyone, I noticed that when listening to one particular album (Oklou's Galore) via my DAC, I'm getting heavy distortion in the mid driver and tweeter when there's a loud bass note in the song. For instance, on "Unearth Me," when there is a bass hit accompanied by vocals, the vocals will distort. I cannot get the speakers to distort under ear bleeding levels with other tracks / albums even with very heavy bass. What concerns me is that I know I've had great experiences with this album in the past WITH the Heresy IV's, so I'm wondering if something happened to my speakers that dislodged something. I'm not sure what it would be. I haven't moved them around or anything. Since the distortion is only showing up when the woofer is loaded WITH the mid driver and tweeter, I'm assuming the speakers aren't blown. Is it possible that a particular album is running at a resonant frequency with the speakers and causing distortion? Not sure what to do. I even swapped speakers, swapped mono blocks, swapped cables etc. all of the way up the chain, and I can't pin point anything wrong with the rest of the system. Maybe I should just forget it. I guess what troubles me is that I know I've listened to that album before without this happening, so I'm not sure. I would appreciate any advice or experience here! Thanks in advance, Davis edit: oh I guess it would help to know the chain. roon > tidal > raspberry pi w/ roopie > modi dac (mostly an analogue listener) > quicksilver pre amp > quicksilver horn mono blocks > heresy IV
  4. I’ve owned my Fives for about 6 months. I use them exclusively with a turntable. I’m generally very pleased with them. One thing however has always puzzled me. Their reputation is that they are very bass heavy, too much so for some. I also know there is a dynamic bass EQ function that allows you to add or reduce bass. I do not experience the heavy bass as others report. And when I enable or disable the dynamic bass EQ I hear no difference. (I’m speaking here of the function enabled by the remote and confirmed with two flashes on the LED readout. I have not installed the firmware update that allows you to cut the bass.) I recently tested this again playing the bass heavy “hot mix” of Led Zep II. Again, no difference with function on or off and the bass just seems normal on both settings. While I’m happy with the speakers as they are, I wonder if I have somehow not installed them correctly or they are for some reason not working properly. I did read one review that noted the same thing — no difference between the two settings. Has anyone else has had or heard of this issue? Thanks
  5. Hoping someone who's owned Epic CF-2 or other Epic series speakers can help - I picked up a pair of Epic CF-2 speakers this week but they don't sound so great. I would have failed them at the demo but thought the space might have had something to do with dissipating bass (1,500 sq. ft. garage with bay doors wide open). What don't I like? Simply put, they aren't nearly as musical as the pair of KG 3.5 I bought two weeks ago. The highs are decent, but mid range and bass are both muddy and poorly defined. The KG 3.5's playing Eva Cassidy "Live at Blues Alley" blow them in detail - and they're not even that detailed! So, what gives - is it possible this is a bum pair and need crossovers replaced? Or is the KG series more musical, more natural-sounding? Is it too much to ask for CF-2's to handle 2-channel duty; are they better as rear surrounds above 80 Hz? Any help would be appreciated - thanks! --Scott O.
  6. I have discovered an easy formula for addressing the two largest problems with the sound of my beloved 1981 Heresy 1.5's (Heresy 1 drivers with the E2 balancing network). The K22-E woofer is not efficient enough to balance the squawker, even with the 9 dB attenuation via the T2A autotransformer. The enclosure contains only 1.6 cubic feet-before subtracting the drivers' and crossover's respective displacements. These limiting factors are familiar to most of you. I have achieved a vast improvement in frequency response, rhythmic drive, listenability and flexibility of room placement by changing-reversibly-only a few things. Bonus: 4dB increase in sensitivity over stock (96 dB/W @ 3 ft) to 100+ dB/W @ 1 m. I sought long and hard a 12" woofer with an efficiency of at least 96 dB/W (2 dB/W more than the Klipsch woofer) that possessed Thiele-Small parameters appropriate for a small, ported enclosure. (Running computer simulations for the Heresy's 1.5 cu.ft.of useable volume, I quickly discovered that physics will limit the extension of unported cabinets to a 3 dB down point (F3) around 70 Hz, regardless of any woofers I can fit.) I found two worthy candidates in the professional sound reinforcement category. The two readily and cheaply available candidates were the Peavey Sheffield Pro 1200+ and the Dayton Audio PA 310-8 12" woofers. My free speaker box calculator app showed that the Dayton woofer ($60 each) yielded the better maximum flat bass amplitude of these two 96 dB/W-candidates. Since I will not damage my one-owner vintage Klipsches (got them brand new in 1982), I bought a half-sheet of 1/2" thick MDF to make a new, port-friendly back panel for the Heresy cabinet and a short length of 3" diameter white PVC pipe along with a 3 1/2" hole saw at the hardware store. I just traced the original back panel and transferred the screw holes onto the MDF. Good measurements and at least a circular saw will give you better results. The box calculator app indicated that a 3" long tube of 3" inside diameter would tune the cabinet to 50 Hz to produce the lowest F3 possible with these woofers: 56.7 Hz. I know that does not seem great, but keep in mind that the simulator app showed the factory woofer's unported F3 at above 70 Hz, plus it was too quiet to balance the squawker and cannot play as loud as the 450 W- capable PA 310-8. You seeing where the "Scale and Gravitas" come in? I installed with hot glue the 3" I.D. by 3"long tubes in the lower outer corners of the MDF panel where the pipe would not foul anything (e.g. wooden cleats) inside the box. Since this new, much beefier woofer has a nominal 8 Ohm impedance instead of the Klipsch woofer's 11 Ohms, I modified the values of L2 and C2 in the Klipsch 'Balancing Network' (crossover) 12 dB/octave woofer low-pass section to achieve the smoothest transition to the squawker. Measurements with pink noise, a calibrated measurement microphone and RTA program led me to a standard second order 600 Hz low pass circuit for 8 Ohms,. That is, I merely changed the original woofer inductor L2 from 4 mH to 3.00 mH ( by unwinding some coils and measuring with an LC meter) and replaced C2, originally 33 muF, to 23.4 muF (a 22muF bipolar 100-Volt electrolytic in parallel with small value poly caps to sum to 23.4 muF). I left the squawker section totally stock, except for replacing the spam can 2 muF squawker capacitor (connected to T2A terminal 5) with a polypropylene Jantzen of the same value. The woofer now smoothly and powerfully balances that magic midrange horn. The speaker can now be placed a couple feet from the wall and still have much better bass than ever. With the Eminence ASD 1001 titanium tweeter driver screwed onto the factory tweeter horn [phase plug removed] with an adapter plate, described in my earlier posts, I measured very flat response from 50 Hz to 19 kHz +/- 2.8 dB ,with 1-octave smoothing; 101 dB SPL at 3 feet with 2.83 V pink noise in a medium sized, carpeted room. The room actually created a modest bass hump to make 40 Hz quite audible ( with the speakers over two feet from the back wall! ). I found that a third order 18 dB/octave high pass circuit at 6 kHz (8 Ohm), without going through the T2A at all, works wonderfully with the ASD 1001 and K52H squawker to prevent that deadly upper midrange hump, combined with the anemic bass, which made the stock Heresy's notorious, especially on denser sonic textures - and right hand piano notes should not honk. Only a narrow 1.5 dB hump at 1.2 kHz and a shallow 1.6 dB depression between 400 and 800 Hz and no spikes anywhere. This is the way I have always wished they had sounded. Bigger, smoother, sweeter.
  7. Here are the RTA and Spectrum Analysis Graphs of the measurements resulting from the modifications described in the first post in this thread. Bear in mind that these readings were not taken in an anechoic chamber or outdoors, but in my listening room, well away from the walls.. All horizontal graph lines are 5 dB apart. These graphs have not been edited. These measurements were taken at less than a Watt of drive power. The Dayton Audio UMM 6 measurement mic and REW software were used on a Toshiba Windows 7 laptop computer. At 2.83 Volts of pink noise the result- not shown here- was 101 dB at 3 feet, 100.4 dB at 1 meter. The first two graphs are RTA of pink noise at 3 feet, with 1-octave smoothing on the first graph and with one third octave-smoothing on the second graph. The third graph is spectrum analysis of white noise, with psychoacoustic smoothing. The final graph shows pink noise RTA with one octave smoothing, locating the mic at the listening position. The crossover schematic responsible for these results is included.
  8. Hi Guys I am very much new to amplifiers and speakers of this level. I bought Denon X4500H and Klipsch RP 8000F + R 115 SW just this week. I am reading through a lot of stuff online about best settings to get the best out of the system. I agree that what I like is the best sound for me, but just to have some basics clear, I need some help from the community. I am using the whole system for music listening only. No movies or TV at all. I read about LFE, LPF etc and tried to play with setting the mains to Large/ Small LFE/LFE+Mains and LPF - 120Hz but I do not seem to feel any difference. I was expecting R 115SW to explode my room but its still very nominal. Could you please help me out with some basic settings. Thanks a lot. Vivek
  9. It’s been a few years since I dropped in. Much has happened: Moved. Retired. Got sick. Got better. Came out of retirement. Son went off to college (and took some of my audio stuff), and much more... It’s good to be back. Did you ever date someone and your head is telling you that this should be the best relationship ever, but your heart isn’t in it? Try as you might, the thrill isn’t there. That’s happening to me, with a beautiful pair of Belles I recently picked up as a birthday present to myself. i know the qualities I expected. They sounded good, if not great, when I auditioned them. I knew of the shortcomings. And they’re so beautiful! Still, it ain’t happening. In the past, I’ve had Heresy IIIs, and Cornscala #Ds. Recording monitors, and Maggie’s. With the Belle’s I’ve tried two different tube amps that I made myself, and a good SS amp. I’ve moved them to the wall; away from the wall; toed in; straight across; with eq and without. My soul isn’t getting it. Help! I have the original paperwork, and glass tops for the cabs. I’m not in a position to make them a project for myself. Do I really need new crossovers? Or drivers? Or horns? I love “all original”, and these are all original. 1982. AA crossovers. What am I doing wrong that I’m getting ear bites with every playing? Thoughts?
  10. Hello, i have a big question, what is the difference between a woofer with a hard suspension against a soft suspension? For example a klipsch kpt 8001 with hard suspension on the woofer vs a klipsch rb 81 lo a soft suspension. Grettings.
  11. New Klipsch client here and first "hi-fi" system in about 30 years. I have a basement room that is 24W x 21.5D x 8H. It is concrete slab floor. My R-28F's are seven feet away and about seven feet apart, right now. I've moved them wider apart, closer, next to the wall, away from the wall and still having a problem with bass. I know they aren't sub replacements. I have an SB16 on the list for future purchase when the wife is away. However, these things are producing some nice bass just not delivering them to me in the right spot. Sitting down in the listening positioning, there is very little bass. When I stand about half way all the way through to full stand it sounds INCREDIBLE. I can't figure this out. My couch is standard height, even a little higher than most actually. If I move further away it's still the same effect. I've toed the speakers in and out with no change in bass.
  12. Started out with bookend speakers and was experiencing heavy base on them so much so it was hard to hear the voices. Contacted Klipsch and they told me to upgrade to the new firmware this was done. Still had the heavy base I mean it was not enjoyable and again contacted Klipsch and they responded ; the bookend speakers were carrying all the bass and were being overwhelmed I might want to add the bass or sub woofer. So I added the sound bar (hopefully for more base dispersion) and the sub-woofer. After adding and setting up the sub woofer and soundbar, the bookend and soundbar were still carrying the majority of the bass and only when intense explosions (sounds) are generated by the source does the bass come over the sub-woofers. So much so it is just crazy loud. Is there no way to balance speech with loud generating bass sounds like explosions, earthquakes, etc. Tried the limited adjustments in the menus area but to no avail. Am I missing something or does the sound system; Hub, bookend speakers, soundbar and sub woofer, need an equalizer? Love the idea WISA is venturing into just hope can get some level of balance.
  13. Hello all, I am about to come into possession of a restored Scott 299C, which will drive my Heresy II speakers. I also have a Sub 12 subwoofer, which I will drive from the derived center channel output on the amp. The center channel output is independently adjustable on the 299C. For anyone out there with a similar set up, what's yoru routine for adjusting the output level to the subwoofer? Do you leave it at a certain level? Do you adjust it according to the regular volume level? Any insights appreciated.
  14. Well, looks like I had one of those legendary Craigslist days we all hear about - saw an ad for three Klipsch speakers for $120 and they turned out to be Heresy HIP (Heresy Industrial Ported)! They will not win any beauty contests - 7-ply birch with an ugly after-market stain job and some white paint spatter, and each speaker has three large metal eyelets drilled into the cabinets to prevent theft. (Given I paid $40 per Heresy speaker that didn't work very well...) Serial numbers all start with "84" and then the serial numbers (e.g. 01292). Does that make them HIP I or HIP II? If HIP I, does anyone have specs? How can anyone complain about a lack of bass in Heresy speakers? I've tested all three HIP in my 2-channel rig (swapping out), and with speakers poorly placed (see pic) five feet from the wall the bass boom is pounding my head! Are these a different spec from the standard Heresy 1? I'm thinking of running the Heresy HIP as left & right mains plus center channel in my 5.1 home theater, using KG 3.5 for the rear surrounds or possibly KG 4.2. Hsu Research VTF-3 Mk IV sub. Do Heresy's play well with the KG series? If I get RF-7's at some point, would the HIP's as rear surrounds and center still mate well? Thanks for the thoughts, thanks for letting me gush. I'm a happy camper!
  15. Which would you choose for 2-channel if you had a choice between Forte II's and Quartets? What's a good price for each?
  16. Hello everyone, I just bought a pair of Klipsch KG 4's and I've been having a few problems with them. I've noticed that whenever I have the bass at a reasonable level, the mid range drivers and the passive radiator in the back begin vibrating and pulsing and it is not part of the song. This is my first foray into vintage speakers so I have no idea if the crossovers are bad or something is blown. I'm hoping you folks here can help me. The speakers are running out of a Kenwood KR-3130 receiver from 1971. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  17. Hi everyone, I recently purchased a Klipsch Sub 12 Subwoofer (at least I think; it looks exactly like this: http://www.klipsch.com/sub-12-subwoofer/details). I'm looking to install a custom TV wall cabinet set up for my home theater. Ideally, I would place my subwoofer inside a cabinet with a mesh door; however, mine is a down-firing subwoofer. Does anyone know if I can still put my subwoofer inside and get good bass quality? Because it's down firing, do I have to have an opening at the bottom of my sub so that the bass will come through? Thanks!
  18. I've owned my set of Promedia 5.1 Ultra's for almost 10 years and only had one problem with the amp once. Now after so many years of great music my subwoofer isn't making bass and there's a strange electrical smell when I turn them on. The bass turns on and off and now my center speaker doesn't sound. My question could it be a fuse or is it the amp that's finally given out? Any recommendations or advice would be very much appreciated.
  19. Hi, does anyone know if a pair of vintage heresy speakers would be suitable for DJ use at a very small venue (max 80 capacity)? I mainly play old soul, funk and jazz music from vinyl and I want to try and make the event as 'audiophile' as possible. I did read somewhere that Heresys are a bit lightweight on bass, but I don't know how true that is? I also wondered what the best overall set-up would work best? Perhaps Klipsch Forte might be better? If anyone has any experience, ideas or opinions about this I would love to hear what you have to say. I live in the UK (London) - not sure how relevant that is! Steve.
  20. For sale is my RSW-10D what do they go for nowadays? 500? I'll do 500 or best offer on that one it's in perfect condition and sounds just.....well, If you're buying one of these, chances are you know what to expect lol. I have the original packaging also. my location is Concord CA
  21. From the album: Super La Scalas

    Bass cabinet is coupled to a bass extension bin to reach sub 30 htz

    © Full Range

  22. Hey folks, I'm new to Klipsch and curious as to how or what the settings are to get the most bass out of the RF-62ii when playing music. It is awesome for movies. The speakers are about a foot from the wall. Audyssey is set. Setup: Denon X2000 Klipsch RC-62ii - Center Klipsch RF-62ii - Fronts Polk Audio Monitor 60 - Surrounds Polk Audio PSW10 (to be upgraded soon) Besides setting the fronts to small, crossed at 80, are there other settings I should be playing with? Dynamic EQ is on, Dynamic Volume is off. LFE at 120. What are the preferred settings in Stereo mode? Thanks in advance. G
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