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  1. Hi all! This has probably been answered somewhere before, but I'm not finding it. I'm looking to tri-amp a pair of 1988 Heresy II's I just picked up, and to do the Heresy II->Heresy III conversion on them, and then tri-amp them again. Does anyone have the Heresy II and Heresy III crossover specs? 1) What are the crossover frequencies and slopes? 2) What's the attenuation (padding) of the different drivers? 3) Are any of the drivers polarity inverted? These would be different for the Heresy II, and III -- and I'm looking for both sets of data for before and after the conversion. Thank you!
  2. Hello community, can anyone steer me in the correct direction to buying an RF-83 crossover. Thank you, Carlos
  3. I have a pair of 1984 first gen KG4's (even though they are listed as starting production in 1985, the labels on the back say 1984). I never liked these speakers! They sounded very harsh and edgy, yet yielded a very good sound stage, but they just fatigued my ears. Five years ago I read on one of the Klipsch forums about Bob Crites having designed and contracted a fabricator to make a titanium replacement for the phenolic horn drivers showing scope readings of a virtually, very flat response on supposedly sounding much smoother and liquid. For about $50 I ordered the pair and swapped them in and everything that people were saying was true. Very smooth, open, and airy, but without the jagged harshness. It was like listening to a completely different speaker -- one I fell in love with and became my main speakers. A couple of weeks ago, I read about the capacitors loosing their life around the 20 year mark and it hit me that the caps in my 1984 KG4's are now 31 years old. When back to Bob Crites' website and for $100 I could send him the original networks for a cap replacement, or for $200 I could receive new networks with all upgraded materials including new chokes, etc. -- I opted for the latter. I ended up removing all of the old “stacked-up” networks of this first gen that had everything glued up in a pile on the back of the input panel – turns out that the choke and transformer? (coiled bobbin) just popped off the plastic input back panel by prying a flat head underneath them and giving a little twist, removed the 3 screws, popped off the one cap that was glued, and cut the wires to the terminals. Then new network board fits on the wood floor of the bottom of the cabinet attached with velcro. After I finished wiring the first cab, I decided to do an A/B comparison between your network and the original 31 year old network. I conducted a very good test condition by putting on a mono LP, The Kingston Trio, and threw the balance knob Left/Right to compare them back and forth… let me tell you something, it was a dramatic difference! The old network sounded like the banjo was being played underneath a quilt. So, even though the speaker cab with the new network sounded brighter, and more open and airy, I would say it wasn’t adding anything, but simply allowing what was naturally in the recording to come through, whereas, the 31 year old network was not allowing all the highs to pass through to the horn. When I listened to the speaker cab that still had the original network, it was a kin to turning the treble control about 3/4’s the way down. As far as the bass, I’m not sure if it’s in my head or not, but it sounded a little tighter – just as strong as before, but with a little less resonance. Once again, Bob Crites has amazed me with his quality designs and engineering. I now have the ultimate KG4’s with Crites’ titanium horn drivers and upgraded, new networks! BTW, they are works of art just to look at (see before and after pics). And because the new networks are mounted on new cedar boards, they smell good too! I’ll never have to worry about moths in my speaker cabs I'm sure all of you know about Bob's Klipsch upgrades and maintenance services, but just in case you don't: www.critesspeakers.com Original 1984 network: New Bob Crites network:
  4. (Please be patient as I'm visually impaired. If you point to any information it would be helpful to provide clear links and description of what I'm looking at so I can follow. Thanks.) I bought a pair of Forte II used and was told they have both the Citrix crossover and titanium tweeter according to the seller. That is the extent of my knowledge on them. I can hear they are probably working soundly during two states, blasting loudly or when I crank the treble down and max out the bass on my amps. This leads me to believe they are mechanically sound, but possibly misconfigured. I don't think they could intentionally be this bright, they loose all boogie and become treble cannons at regular volumes. They appear to be functioning soundly, but they don't seem to register much on the low end except in these two circumstances. I've done lot of failed searches to try to understand these crossovers but that's tricky with my visual impairment. Can anyone tell me if there is a straight forward way of adjusting these crossovers with pins to redistribute some of the power to the low end? I know some replacement crossovers you can just change some terminals. I gathered the former owner had a high frequency hearing loss and I'm no longer in touch with him, but I wondered if he had them configured bright without knowing it, he also said he played them pretty loud which seems to masks the problem. Note that I am getting the same results off a variety of amps with various power levels ranging from 20wpc tube monoblocks to 55wpc RMS NAD receivers. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks (a few photos post wood restoration and new grills I made. In the end I manged to clean up the original very well too. So I have to sets now.)
  5. UPDATE (4/3/20): Still hope everyone is doing well and finding ways not to succumb to "cabin fever" 😵 Since I did a tweeter upgrade recently, it gave me a chance to take another pic of the x-over board showing how I fixed the loose coil using tie wraps. I have added that to the collection of photos below....Cheers.... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hope everyone is hunkering down and hanging in there with all this coronavirus stuff going on. Be smart and stay healthy!!! I finally got around to updating my 20+ yr. old KG2.5s. I opened the spkrs. to verify cap values and found they were KG2.5s, not KG2.2s as I had come to believe for some reason (see TL;DR below...it was a definite "D'oh!" moment). Anyway, now that I had verified parts, I ordered them and they arrived a few days later. I set aside some time to do the upgrades. I planned to do 1 spkr. at a time since the new caps would be combinations to equal the original values AND some were axial (leads on either end) instead of radial (both leads on same end). This also meant drilling some new holes and figuring out how to secure the now dual-cap configs. I prob'ly could have found actual values but my research into that meant buying more (in some cases, much, much more) expensive upgraded caps (Mundorf, Solen, etc.) and spending nearly 1/2 (or more) of the price of the spkrs. Just didn't think it prudent for these spkrs. Ended up with Dayton caps for the tweeter circuit and Parts Express-branded caps for the electrolytics. TL;DR - Not remembering my spkr models - When I started the upgrade I opened 1 spkr. (configuration is a heavy plastic front panel with both woofers(?), the tweeter and the x-over PCB mounted to it which is then mounted into the front of the box with 8 wood screws) and removed the x-over board. That's when I noticed a couple of things wrt the model. I saw KG2.5 printed on the PCB (possible explanation for cap values I didn't expect), and my first thought was maybe this was a mfg. error and why I bought them (KG2.2) at a fairly good price way back when. Then I looked at the part number printed on the woofer (and I use that term loosely). It was not the one supposedly used for the KG2.2s. So, out to the garage I ran to find the original box and, sure enuf, it said KG2.5. Then I realized I should look at the back of the spkrs. Once again, it was confirmed they were KG2.5s. My guess is my confusion came from the fact that I had collected a fair amt of KG2.2 tech docs and found very little for the KG2.5s. Somewhere along the way my brain decided to "remember" the spkrs were KG2.2s. Go figure.... Performing the mods/upgrades - Doing the actual mods was fairly straight forward but required some adaptations for the new caps. Original caps in the woofer circuit were unbranded radial electrolytic NPOs: 25 uF and 18 uF both @ 100V and 10% tolerance. I replaced them with axial (100V, 10%) 10 uF + 15 uF for the 25 uF, and 10 uF + 8 uF for the 18 uF cap. Pretty much a swap except for double the parts and axial vs. radial. In the tweeter circuit were, what I believe to be, mylar caps (usually fairly stable) at 8 uF and 4 uF, 100V. No idea of the tolerance. I replaced those using 4 uF caps. I simply used one 4 uF cap for the 4 uF replacement (duh! , and paralleled two 4 uF caps to replace the 8 uF. The new caps are 250V (only voltage available and a nice margin anyway) @ 5% (I would expect an improvement here over the old ones, tho I have no idea). Both old and new caps are axial, with the new ones a bit longer. Both sets of caps required new holes to be drilled to solder in the leads. I initially considered using a non-corrosive adhesive, but opted for tie wraps instead. Thru-holes were drilled in the PCB to provide mounting for the tie wraps. Given the caps were now double stacked (and because of the limited space available due to the new the 4 uF and "8 uF" caps grouped into a 3-cap arrangement, so to speak, having to fit into a smaller 2-cap space), I felt the tie wraps would offer better security and stability. Two of the original coils/inductors were constructed on plastic bobbins with a plastic insert pin (and some glue) used to hold the coils to the PCB. One of them came loose somewhere along the way and I was able to use tie wraps, as well. to resecure it to the PCB. I drilled holes in the PCB for this and used the holes already formed in the bobbins as secure mounting points (See last pic). Results of the upgrade - I've been using the upgraded spkrs for a couple of weeks at this point and I have to say I notice a better clarity on the mids and upper range. I sense there is a bit of improvement (maybe more of a restoration) for the low end, but my ears aren't sensitive enuf to really tell. Besides, I have a Klipsch 10", 150W subwoofer to take care of that so I set the receiver LFE crossover to be a bit higher (80Hz vs. 50Hz) to take a bit of the stress off the "woofers" I also detect better sonics out of the spkrs and restored clarity in the "voices" of instruments. Overall, I'm very happy. Total cost was ~$25 and a couple of hours of my time (Tie wraps were "free" cuz I had them in my parts bin So, enuf words. Time for pics. This first pic is the original x-over PCB before I swapped out caps. The 2 orange upright caps on the left side of the board are the 25 uF (left) and 18 uF (right). The 2 burnt orange caps in the center are the 8 uF (left) and 4 uF (right). You can also see how everything(!) is mounted to the front panel. Tweeter is underneath the x-over board. 2nd pic shows the completed upgrade and x-over reinstalled. Note the new mounting holes drilled to accommodate the larger, axial electrolytic caps. Not as obvious are the new holes drilled to accommodate the slightly longer tweeter caps. Pic 3 shows the tie wraps used for the double-stacked electrolytics and how they were oriented to make them fit. This pic shows tie wraps and new lead holes (~1/4" past the old holes) for the 8 uF (left in the group) and 4 uF ("nestled" in on the right) caps. Note that all 3 caps are tied in a group. Here's a pic of my fix for the loose coil. You can see the hole (one on the other side, as well, but out of view) I drilled for the tie wraps.
  6. I have a larger (33x15x9) room and a new set of Klipsch RP-600m speakers. I also have a pair of 15" downward-firing subs. My crossover (JL Audio CR-1) is capable of discreet R/L stereo bass management. At what frequency should this pair of satellites be crossed over to the subs for stereo audio use only? I've had audio amigos advise me that I should set the crossover as closely as possible to the -3dB roll-off point of the satellites, but as I see it, this has numerous potential disadvantages: 1. The acoustic roll-off of the speakers will be added to that of the upstream electronic crossover, causing asymmetrical crossover rates between the satellites and the subs. 2. The intermodulation distortion of the satellites will be increased because of the higher woofer excursion on the satellites. 3. The single 6.5" woofers of the satellites will be stressed at high volumes in my room. I've (conversely) also had other audio amigos recommending to me that since I do have two subs, and because those subs will (initially) be located as closely as possible to the satellites, that I set the crossover to as high a frequency as possible (150 Hz. with the JL). As I see it, this does have some advantages, but also some disadvantages: On the plus side: 1. The intermodulation distortion of the satellites should be minimized because the longer excursions required for lower bass will be handled by the subs (whose larger cone area will minimize distortion for the same volume). 2. The amount of current required to run the satellites will be greatly reduced allowing the use of much lower wattage tube amplifiers if desired. 3. By judicious use of the phase knob on the sub's plate amps, I can move the subs more independently of the satellite locations. But on the minus side: 1. Having a higher crossover frequency may allow the transition from satellites to subs to become more audible. 2. At higher frequencies, acoustic localization of the subs may become more likely. 3. The downward-firing design of the subs may muffle the higher frequencies. The specific subs being used are Powersound Audio S1510DF models, a sealed-box design that has worked well in my room before. I plan to use the JL crossover with 24dB / octave slopes, rather than the more ubiquitous 12. So noting that movie soundtrack use is NOT a priority for this system, where should the crossover point be set? Thanks in advance for your help - Boomzilla
  7. Hello all! I am new to the forum. I love my Belle Klipsch, and am the original owner. Read a post about the undesirable AB crossovers. Should I consider changing them out? Would there be a noticeable difference, improvement? Thank you for your input.
  8. Hi and thanks for reading, I have a pair of La Scalas with the Type AL crossover, as pictured. It seems to be pretty hard to find a circuit diagram for this network, including from the thread between Bob Crites and ALK. There are no pictures I can find online and from the few discussions I have read, the general advice is that rather than re-cap it, this network should be replaced with something else - Both Crites and ALK have solutions, but both run into several hundred $AUD with postage and I don't have that sort of budget atm. La Scala LSBR S/N 8504510 K55-M squawker K-77M tweeter In terms of capacitors on the crossover, these are the markings on each part: 3x 2uF [+- 5%] 180 VAC - black rectangular block type 2x 8uF [+- 5%] 250 VAC - black rectangular block type 1x 30uF 250 VAC "CDE Soggy Foil Protected" 60 Hz - large canister type There is also a resistor marked "5 [Ohm] 10%" - white packaged type. My questions: Is it indeed not worth (in terms of financial outlay) replacing these parts with new components of the same values? What capacitor types are these and what would be suitable replacements (as I am not familiar with the respective uses of the various capacitor package / build types)? What would be the best bang for buck, if I had to choose between parts to replace - treble, mid or bass? I assume top end? My understanding is that there would be no benefit updating any of the inductors or transformers. Is this correct? Are there any other alternatives apart from Crites / ALK ? I would also consider DIY if I had a solid schematic and wiring guide to follow. I am spurred on to try the re-cap after some significant success replacing the caps on some 1975 Mordaunt Short speakers this week, dramatically uplifting performance! Any advice, experiences or general comments would be most appreciated. Anyone locally (in Australia anyway) done this before? Thanks! IWS
  9. I have three pairs of RP-140SA speakers in my 7.1.2 set up and I am having trouble with the crossover setting for the RP-140SA. According to the spec sheet, the frequency response for the speaker, "conforms to Dolby Atmos Specification." Apparently this is some secret thing because I can't find it anywhere, at least for home theaters. My pre/pro does the auto-eq routine but like most, it varies and sometimes the RP-140SA crossovers are calculated at 40Hz (yeah right!) and sometimes they are 120Hz + or - 40Hz. I don't know why it's some secretive thing, but it would be nice to know what the bottom range is so I don't over-drive them. Does anyone know what the low end of the frequency response is? I'm sorry to sound like this, but I just find it frustrating that this basic number isn't published on Klipsch's or Dolby's site.
  10. I want to recap for Klipsch Forte. There are the original Forte's (not Forte II's). Please let me know the cap values
  11. Hello All. I've been searching, without any success, for a crossover schematic for my Tangent 30 speakers, and am hoping that someone has one handy. The crossovers in my pair of Tangent 30 appear to have been modified, as the capacitors don't match from one to the other. Any help with this would be much appreciated, as I don't think there is a schematic available for any of the Tangents other than those that use the drivers and crossovers of the Heresy (Tangent 400, 4000). Thanks in advance! Cheers, Tiz
  12. Bought these from another forum member, but project plans have changed. E-2 crossovers recapped with Dayton 1% capacitors. Ready to plug and play. $100. shipped lower 48 states
  14. Finally, after a year with my 1988 LaScala, I replaced the AL type crossovers with a constant impedance set. I took good care to simulate and then measure the results and i am now an happy camper :-) I decided that a fix L Pad will be my preferred way to attenuate the mid range. The original attenuation was 6 DB, but in order to make them more lively, I opted for a 4 DB pad. What are your preferred attenuation? Dan
  15. I am looking for a pair of ALK Crossovers for my La Scalas. Let me know what you have.
  16. Hi there I have a Marantz SR-7010 receiver and I added the following speakers: Floor standing Klipsch RP-280f Center Klipsch Rp-450c Subwoofer Klipsch R-112SW I run the marantz audyssey setup and then went manually to touch the central speaker and raise it up 5db more. Im quite happy with the movie dialogs they sound crystal clear but I need to still tweak the subwoofer a little more. I want a more tight punch. My speakers are set to small and the crossovers are: Rp-280f says fullband central 40hz and then in the sub config its LFE 120hz (at the back of the sub I have the auto OFF, phase to 0 and gain around 3/4db. that according to audyssey its 75db) Any hint in how to configure correclty this set up for a tighter punch. Room size is 20 square meters approx. If you need any other detail let me know, thanks a lot
  17. SOLD - Thanks for the interest! Chrous ii Crossovers (Pair) - Removed from a second-hand pair of Chorus II's, that were replaced with Crites. Both were in working condition prior to removal. Not Tested - Sold As-Is. Contact me for more pics. Make me an offer!
  18. Hey Everyone, I had such a great response from the forum last time I posted here that I decided instead of again suffering too much trying to figure out the answer myself I would again ask here (see below for my previous post). There is such a vast wealth of knowledge and experience here that I would be foolish to not ask for your insight and ideas. I want to do a refresh on my Klipsch Heresy I speakers crossovers, they haven't been touched since they were produced in 1977. I have decided that I want to do the following: - replace the Capacitors (100%) - replace the wire (maybe not but I kinda do) - understand what those strange things are look like metal frames holding a wound up paper with wires going into it (there are two of them, and they are the only other thing than the capacitors in the crossover, can these fail? should they be replaced?) - any success with replacing the terminals on the back of the speakers? Is this necessary? I feel like to be sure it would be good to replace them, but I hate the idea of changing the speakers too much, especially externally. So from what I understand is that many consider the Sonicaps too bright and therefore I have leaned towards two options: - Mundorf Silver in Oil - Jensen NOS Paper in Oil (if I can secure them) So the questions that I have currently are: - Have you tried the Mundorf or the Jensen? What caps have you had success with? - I need a parts list with specific measurements required and I can't decipher a electronic schematic, thank god I have a good and honest tech here locally so I can get the work done, soldering, ect. - any suggestions for wire that I should use internally for these speakers? I understand that it is better to have a bit of a smaller gauge especially when using a tube amplifier and highly efficient speakers. Should I keep the original? These speakers are in surprisingly good condition for their age... I'll ping the stand up guys that helped me the first time. Thanks guys! @JohnA @jimjimbo @CECAA850 @MC39693
  19. II have recently acquired a pair of consecutively numbered (164 & 165) Klipsch Model H speakers. I have found some information on them, but had more questions. It seems there were 18 of the 8" versions of these, but how many where made of the 12" in this style? Is there more information about various drivers in these? Based on looking at the screws before opening, they don't seem to have been opened before I took the back off of one, but the 12" driver is a Cletron Cathedral. The nuts holding the speakers all have the same amount of white corrosion too. Did this brand of woofer show up in other early Klipsch speakers? Lastly, I will need to change the capacitors. One has a 2uf with two taps and wires going to each of those. The other is 4uf with one tap where two wire attach, and another wire going to the metal can of the capacitor. I'm curious how to wire modern caps in place of these, I have an idea, but would like to hear other thoughts to be sure. Mostly I wanted to share photos since there aren't many of this model that I can find, and I didn't see any photos of the inside. These are extremely clean all around, excellent condition of wood and cloth.
  20. New to me set of Belle. Sold my Lascala last year, and been sorry I did so. Saw a set of Belle on local Craig's and jumped. Matching veneer, type AA xover...question: It looks strange... square caps, 2 sets of protection instead of the 1 I'm used to seeing. Anyone know if these are stock? Nothing like them online that I can see. Paperwork with these is dated 1971. Serial 306 and 307. Also, when I had the lascala, I bought xovers from Alk, and mid lense fastrac lascala from Fastlane. Is it ok to run the xovers and lense in these Belle? Providing I can fit it in there.. Any opinions appriciated.
  21. 3-Way crossover/balancing network for Klipsch LaScala, Belle Klipsch or Klipschorn. Can be configured for either 4500 or 6000 hz crossover to the tweeter. NOTE: USE OF STANDARD K-77 TWEETERS CROSSED OVER at 4500 hz IS NOT RECOMMENDED. DAMAGE TO THE TWEETER MAY OCCUR. Very good condition. Very limited use. $179. Price includes shipping. Shipping within Continental US only. Also available for local pickup in the Washington, DC Metro area. Cash only. https://critesspeakers.com/crossovers.html https://critesspeakers.com/bk-sound-type-a4500-crossov.html 1) 400/4500 Each of the Red and Black wires marked “1,2,3 and 4” are connected via the Male and Female quick connect ends 2) 400/6000 Disconnect the Red and Black wires marked “1,2,3 and 4”. Connect 3 Red and 4 Red.
  22. Crossover images for those wishing to complete the circuit documentation.
  23. Have had a crossover project in the works since I became the owner of the La Scalas That project was to make the ( originally two piece ) gentle slope exposed crossover fit into a single board design that will be exposed to view & showcase the crossover and have easy access to the Autoformer attenuating section for db adjustments as required I am more versed in Mechanical Engineering so I have employed an associate to build the crossovers for me for a small cost and the offer of a listen on the system when it's all connected up The Crossover design is loosely based on the ALK gentle slope type AP12-500 & AP12-6000 configurations As all the drivers in my speakers are not standard - some changes needed to be made The original design of these crossovers was - as a two piece system as that fits the Klipsch Heritage range We put our thinking caps on and have come to a design agreement and tweak for a single board based on Troels Gravasens observations as we have plenty of available board space We have designed this build as a single board - all coil distances are to Troels recommendations The layout design was made maximise neatness and avoid component interaction. We did not forget that the attenuators being transformers also need to be treated as inductors for spacing issues. Soon after we simplified the connectivity of all three driver sections on the crossover alleviating many connection points, and a new schematic was drawn up (I won't post the schematic as ALK the designer has removed them from the web site due to plagiarism) This crossover still has the separate mid range and tweeter attenuation features for fine tuning First we did a basic layout of the components on the floor with the view to tweak as needed for best performance and fit A close up of the tweeter attenuator - This component will allow me to tweak db volume to suit speaker placement and room size The coils for the Bass and Mid sections are hand wound and weigh over 3 pounds US -approx 1.5 kg each We chose and used a good speaker colour match plywood board - and started the component fit You will see a set of wire cutters and the tape measure @ 500mm to judge scale The crossovers are finished - my associate has done a fantastic job and has emailed me a couple of photos of the finished crossovers For all soldered connections Mundorf Silver/Gold solder was used I chose to use a Duelund resistor to service the Bass & Mid range Top side layout Underside Will apply finishing touches in the form of - 1) A frame that will incorporate in the design grab points for easy lifting 2) When funds allow I will have a perspex cover made for dust protection ( like a TT cover ) 3) Labels for connection identification points 4) A Klipsch logo or badge to each board as a finishing touch
  24. I just bought two Klipsch F-28 floor speakers. I am having a hard time figuring out the best setup as far as settings and crossover. 1) Set the speakers to small or large ? 2) If set to small what crossover is good to ensure I still get great sound from the speakers and deep bass from the sub? 3) My Sub has a r and L input and a LFE input - currently I have it from the receiver sub out into the subs LFE. 3) Does the sub always receiver a signal even if the front speakers are set to large. Meaning, I thought that the cross over setting just filters out the signals for the speakers it is set for and doesn't actually send the filtered signals to the sub-woofer, the sub-woofer is its own channel and signals will be sent to the sub no matter what the cross over for the speakers are set. By setting a speakers crossover you are just saying cut these frequencies out – not cut them out and send them to the sub instead (Is that right?) I have: · Receiver: Sony STR-dn1050 · Front R/L Klipsch f-28 (maybe I need a better model with a separate mid-range driver) · Center: Mirage OMD-C1 · L/R surround: Mirage Nanosat (I want to get new Klipsch surrounds once I figure this out) · Subwoofer: Infinity PSW310 10in Thanks!
  25. I'm looking to revamp my modified K-Horns with new crossovers, and was wondering if anyone has tried Al's economy crossover? It looks like everything I need (squawker and tweeter attenuation). Just wondering if it would be appropriate to use with the non stock drivers in my system? I am currently running Crites cast woofers, Selenium D405 mid and Selenium T220 tweeters on custom made tractrix wood horns. My current crossovers are universal type 400/4500 crossovers. I want to go back to 400/6000 crossover points because I'm changing my listening room to a smaller footprint and will be more of a close range listening environment. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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