Pete H Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 I want to remove the backs on a pair of C 2's I have that I will be making some modifications to. As you know, the backs are glued and I would like to try and get them off without destroying them as I would like to use them when the mods are done. I don't think I can get enough heat to the glue, based on how they are put together to get it released, so I figured I would put this out there and see if there's any tricks that anyone else has used in this situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 I think the cabinets are particle board aren't they? That will make a mess trying to pry the backs, or hammering from the inside. I think a heat gun might be worth a try, with gentle prying at the seam. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 The drivers are mounted from the front of the motorboard, right? They aren't made to be removed. Access the inside of the cab by removing the woofer would be adviseable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seadog Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Just curious. What are you doing that would require removal of the back, and that access through the front woofer hole could not suffice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 I should have stated that they are plywood and not particle board. I've already taken all the drivers and crossover out and I'm going to be replacing the stock mid horn and driver with a wood tractrix and atlas driver, and at the same time adding to the structure of the cabinet to stiffin it up and add damping material to the inside. I had posted some pics in a diferent thread and I'll put one on here, but I was shocked to find that these cabinets were constructed without any damping material from Klipsch and have a 2x4 brace that runs from the motor board to the rear panel. Don't get me wrong on this, the damping wasn't removed by a prior owner, the inside of the cabinet is clean and has no signs of anything ever being attached to the panels and the 2x4 looks like the same glue, that the cabinet was constructed with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 One more shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Someone in Hope would know for sure, but I would guess that the back is set into a groove or has a tongue. The cabinets weren't meant to come back apart once they got put together. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 Someone in Hope would know for sure, but I would guess that the back is set into a groove or has a tongue. The cabinets weren't meant to come back apart once they got put together. Bruce Hey Bruce, I actually thought about calling them, not to understand how the cabinet was put together, but to find out specifically what kind of glue was used in order to help determine what would be the best method to get it to release. As I was driving home today I had a thought that I will try to get them to come off in tact, here's the theory...........I will apply electrical heat tape to the outside back of the cabinet in order to warm up the wood and glue consistently around the outer edge of the back. At the same time I will set up 2 small hydraulic jacks inside the cabinet using 2x material to disperse the pressure evenly on the joints and use a heat gun on the inside to concentrate the heat to the areas that show weakness. I believe that this will provide the greatest opportunity for removal of the backs, without causing damage. Just a theory, but I'm going to try it and see. I will report the details, but I believe this will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Man, I have a bad feeling about what you're getting ready to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Man, I would NOT do this to those cabinets. They are not manufactured to ever have the backs removed. Just not a good idea at all. Trust me when I say I have done some pretty scary things to some stock Klipsch cabinets and this thought would never even enter my mind. For what that is worth of course. Also, as far as the jack deal is concerned. I think you stand a better chance of cracking/breaking the baffle then you do pushing the backs out/off. That back panel has alot more rigidity and structural integrity than the baffles do. Just sayin'. Why exactly can't you do what you want without removing the backs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Trust me when I say I have done some pretty scary things to some stock Klipsch cabinets... And I've seen the You tube videos of this. Well, until they were banned...[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 If I found that the back on my Cornwall was glued it would clue me in that Klipsch did not want me removing it under any circumstances. Probably best to have another beer and think it over. JJK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesV Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 I will apply electrical heat tape to the outside back of the cabinet in order to warm up the wood and glue consistently around the outer edge of the back. At the same time I will set up 2 small hydraulic jacks inside the cabinet using 2x material to disperse the pressure evenly on the joints and use a heat gun on the inside to concentrate the heat to the areas that show weakness. I believe that this will provide the greatest opportunity for removal of the backs, without causing damage. Just a theory, but I'm going to try it and see. I will report the details, but I believe this will work. Make sure you set up video of this before you start, I want to see this from start to finish... James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 Make sure you set up video of this before you start, I want to see this from start to finish... James I will try with the video, but pictures at the least. Everyone seems to be worried about this, but in the end if it breaks something, it's really no big deal, I'll just build a new piece, but I want to reinforce the cabinet and modify the midhorn and one way or another, these will have removable backs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 When you're done, you'll have removable tops, bottoms, and sides too. [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 I want to reinforce the cabinet and modify the midhorn and one way or another, these will have removable backs. If you intend to have removable backs anyway, why not run a flush bit router along the inside wall and make all new backs for them Cornwalls. That would be simple and a clean install. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Brilliant, Dave! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 I want to reinforce the cabinet and modify the midhorn and one way or another, these will have removable backs. If you intend to have removable backs anyway, why not run a flush bit router along the inside wall and make all new backs for them Cornwalls. That would be simple and a clean install. Dave I would have done that, but even though I'm altering these C 2's, I ,for some reason, want to save the backs with the tags and use them intact, since I will be changing most everything else, I just want the original tags on them. And for everyone that was scared I was going to blow them apart trying this, I did a test this evening and tried the theory on the 2x4 brace that was heavily glued and fastened to the front and back of the cabinet, and I'm confident that the backs will be a breeze to get off using this method. I will probably do that on the first cabinet tomorrow night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 The glue that was used to construct the cabinets releases with ease ( and a good heat gun)[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted March 24, 2010 Author Share Posted March 24, 2010 Look Ma, no damage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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