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ClaudeJ1

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If there for outdoor or Pa and moved around alot find or make some corners and coat the outside with something like truck bed liner ?

For the garage bins I just put plain old exterior paint, it's easy and cheap enough to repaint when the start to get a little rough.

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If there for outdoor or Pa and moved around alot find or make some corners and coat the outside with something like truck bed liner ?

For the garage bins I just put plain old exterior paint, it's easy and cheap enough to repaint when the start to get a little rough.

These will be in my garage for starters and then a screening room in the future . I'm pretty excited to get the first one done I have another few days and it will be complete the second one will be easier. These are easier in some ways to build than La scalas but because of there size they are kicking my butt . I may just go to Home Depot and get some aluminum trim and put that on all the corners and edges on the cabinets.
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Yes the next one will go much quicker, and it is tough to move around, I had to get help when it was time to flip them over and especially to move them inside. The pair in the garage I put handles on and there much easier for two people to move. And also used Michaels idea and built a wood frame and put wheels on it so you can just roll them around.

When Michael sold a pair of double bins I helped move one from one trailer to another, the double bins are hard to move even with handles, very heavy.

I didn't add the little V in the back, but imagine it can't hurt.

Nice looking wood. [Y]

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Good idea is there a post on those? I'm not sure if the V will make any difference the main reason I put it in is so I could bring the wire back up into the cabinet . Going to take the weekend off from working on them and start back on Tues.

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Somewhat, it was just said a while back on a thread about something else, so probably could never find it.

It was just mentioned that was why something like that was not in the original design, I think it ended up that they could not test and hear any difference so it was not included.

I think that's how it ended anyway.

I am glad you put the piece of wood to back up the t-nuts or whatever you used there. You can see now how there would be no way to get to that later, wood screws could always be used in some of the other holes if a t-nut backed out but why take a chance.

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Somewhat, it was just said a while back on a thread about something else, so probably could never find it.

It was just mentioned that was why something like that was not in the original design, I think it ended up that they could not test and hear any difference so it was not included.

I think that's how it ended anyway.

I am glad you put the piece of wood to back up the t-nuts or whatever you used there. You can see now how there would be no way to get to that later, wood screws could always be used in some of the other holes if a t-nut backed out but why take a chance.

Not sure if I posted it here, but that was me quoting Gary Gillum (from a phone conversation about 2 years ago), co-patent holder with PWK on the MWM woofer bin. He said they tried the splitter and it didn't make a darn bit of difference, either measured or heard............but it does make a really nice wire cover here. LOL.

He also said MWM bins were developed with K33 woofers, but the K43 was custom made later on to handle more power for stadium use, although the K33 has better bass down low (my measurements vs. K43). I guess it depends on the crossover point to the midrange. Based on my use of K-43's in LaScalas, they sounded WAY better than K33's in the midrange and while the bass was handled by MWM's with K33's down below LaScala bins.

I can see why Industrial LaScalas are so prized.

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