Heritage_Head Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 What about something similar to this, not a solid wall but just built as open framed beams so no acoustic problems of a wall. The stand below the center could be built like a table with your subwoofer below the center channel, while either one or both of the stands below the Left & Right fronts could be built as equipment racks to hold your systems components. The screen could be mounted to the wall frame and the top, sides and bottom could then be finished in either acoustically transparent black material and/or possibly theater curtains. a curtain below the screen would also allow access to your equipment when needed. Look at post #7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted May 9, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 9, 2014 I just thought I would bring some wood to the fire, lol. haha...indeed you did. What about something similar to this, Scroll up and you will see the exact photo that I posted. I'm open to all types of suggestions. Whatever I design, I want to be able to have access to the gear. Nothing sealed in a tomb type setup. Panels that can be removed or doors that can be opened, equipment that can easily be swapped out in the future as components need to be replaced. If you upgrade the size of your screen, do you also need to upgrade your projector? I would think "yes." Not necessarily. My room is pretty much 100% light controlled. I just need to blackout one set of windows and it will be 100% light controlled. According to Projector Central's Calculator Pro, if you set the aspect ratio to 2.35:1, the zoom to 2x and the diagonal to 130", it shows I am within the recommended brightness for that size screen. I would just need to move my projector from 12' throw distance to 13.6' throw distance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Dave, As youth has controlled ambient lighting, his current projector will likely do the job fine. It is entirely possible he will have to move it back some. Projector systems are just fine for TV watching when ambient lighting is under control. It is almost as good as plazma or LCD in those cases. The old rule of the bigger the picture, the grainier is true here, but on my 120" diag screen, I can stand 5' from my screen and it's not grainy at all. 4K is here and very cool, but frankly it is still too expensive for my pocketbook yet. One of these nights this summer I will have a movie/beer and popcorn and you can come down to the shop. That way you can see just how good it can be. In the daytime the ambient light takes it's toll in my shop. Think of ambient light this way. If you don't have your projector on, and you look at the screen, that is your black. That is why light control is sooooo important to projectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted May 9, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 9, 2014 And two, are projectors/screens good for general TV watching? I would guess "no" for this one. We don't have cable and the only "TV" we watch is when my kids watch "The Voice" and we aren't looking for bluray type quality. If your cable box can send a 1080p image, yes, it would look great on a projection setup. Problem is you only get around 3000 hrs on a projector bulb and if you watch a lot of TV, a $300 replacement bulb can get expensive. I would think a good upgrade would be to 4K when prices drop and 4K content becomes available, and I would think that upgrading the screen to accommodate bigger/better/more speakers would also be a good reason to upgrade. Yes, I'm sure way down the road when 4k is a bit older technology and prices come down and there is adequate 4k content, sure, I'll likely upgrade. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted May 9, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 9, 2014 Look at post #7 Is anyone else confused? I posted a pic of Tony's front wall in post #7. Then you later suggested that I consider something like Tony's front wall. I then reply that I had already considered Tony's setup and pointed you to my above post. Am I missing something? It is entirely possible he will have to move it back some. According to the calculator pro at projector central, you are correct. I will have to move it back from 12' to 13.6'. In the daytime the ambient light takes it's toll in my shop. Mine too. Since I have the double sliding glass door not darkened, even though it leads to an outside covered lanai which blocks a lot of sun, there still is a descent amount of light that enters the room but we typically watch movies after dark so at that point, the room gets VERY dark. If I turn up the lights, the screen looks very washed out (Panasonic AE3000u is not designed for non-light controlled rooms). But when the lights go completely out, the picture looks amazing and very bright on the screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TasDom Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Have you considered an AT electric drop down screen? Everything would be hidden yet quickly accessible with a click of the remote to raise it up when needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Look at post #7 Is anyone else confused? I posted a pic of Tony's front wall in post #7. Then you later suggested that I consider something like Tony's front wall. I then reply that I had already considered Tony's setup and pointed you to my above post. Am I missing something? It is entirely possible he will have to move it back some. According to the calculator pro at projector central, you are correct. I will have to move it back from 12' to 13.6'. In the daytime the ambient light takes it's toll in my shop. Mine too. Since I have the double sliding glass door not darkened, even though it leads to an outside covered lanai which blocks a lot of sun, there still is a descent amount of light that enters the room but we typically watch movies after dark so at that point, the room gets VERY dark. If I turn up the lights, the screen looks very washed out (Panasonic AE3000u is not designed for non-light controlled rooms). But when the lights go completely out, the picture looks amazing and very bright on the screen. huh? I was pointing him to the pic you posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 You got your posts mixed up youth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted May 9, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 9, 2014 You got your posts mixed up youth I knew I missed something. haha. Didn't realize it was two different people. Thx for setting me straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted May 9, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 9, 2014 Have you considered an AT electric drop down screen? Probably WAY above what I want to spend. I would think it would only be for "show" when guests come over. Honestly, most aren't going to be impressed with seeing three older looking speakers. I would think the sound and the visual quality of the large screen would present enough WOW factor. As far as accessibility, it would only give me access to the speakers, not the equipment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_Guy Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 What about something similar to this, not a solid wall but just built as open framed beams so no acoustic problems of a wall. The stand below the center could be built like a table with your subwoofer below the center channel, while either one or both of the stands below the Left & Right fronts could be built as equipment racks to hold your systems components. The screen could be mounted to the wall frame and the top, sides and bottom could then be finished in either acoustically transparent black material and/or possibly theater curtains. a curtain below the screen would also allow access to your equipment when needed. Look at post #7 Yes I took the photo from post #7, I was suggesting ideas to go with it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunburnwilly Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 (edited) I found a guy's thread I am following in the AVS forum that has 3 LaScalas behind a screen. Here is what Tony123's HT looks like. That is forum member trugasa's set-up . I had the pleasure of auditioning that system a few years ago . At the time Danley was offering a special on the DTS10 kits which I was interested in . Tony offered a demo and even offered to build them for me , 2 , for some pizza and labor on my part . Outstanding guy to say the least ! Anyway I found his set-up to be a game changer . Tony's room is 18 x 33 and his AT screen is 14' diagonal , 168" . Did not even notice his surrounds which were Heresys and some reference dipoles , the front 3 and subs overwhelmed them . The bass from the 2 Danleys ; I loved it , but it might be hazardous to some folks health . Seemed to move you're internals around if ya no what I mean ! Decided against the Danleys on the way home from the demo . They would wreck my room and considering that I rent there's only so much I could do to accommodate them as they will damage an unprepared room and the rooms around it . Anyway , the moral of this post is to build an AT screen the width of the room . With the front 3 LaScalas behind it you will be floored ! Edited May 9, 2014 by sunburnwilly 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybobg Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 (edited) I don't know if this helps, but I was able to fit a 117" screen between a pair of LS. Obviously, if you can build an AT screen you could go larger, but you might consider this as an interim until you can get the end product speakers you're looking for. The screen is a DIY screen and the center squat LS is a modified clone I built. If you've got the ceiling height, you can fit a normal LS as a center. I didn't have enought height. I've since covered the top of the speakers with material to take away the glare and the ceiling light is normally off during viewing. Anyway, I thought I'd show you a screen between the 103" you have and the 130" you're considering. Oh, yeah. My projector is outside the "ideal" distance for projection and I have no issues with grain. Edited May 9, 2014 by billybobg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted May 9, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 9, 2014 Thx Billybob, I do want to move to an AT screen so I can get the largest screen. Not sure how wide your room is. Mine is 13' wide and I also have 10' ceilings. Looks like yours might be around 15' wide? Someone call a Dr....I think I'm sick. Not sure how I went from the thought of upgrading my sound to 3 LaScalas to upgrading my screen to 130" and now I'm considering upgrading my sub to a single or maybe dual Danley DTS20's? Haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybobg Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Thx Billybob, I do want to move to an AT screen so I can get the largest screen. Not sure how wide your room is. Mine is 13' wide and I also have 10' ceilings. Looks like yours might be around 15' wide? Someone call a Dr....I think I'm sick. Not sure how I went from the thought of upgrading my sound to 3 LaScalas to upgrading my screen to 130" and now I'm considering upgrading my sub to a single or maybe dual Danley DTS20's? Haha. No, my room is only 13' also. If you look close, the LSs only barely fit outside the 8' wide screen. Due to the doorway, I was very limited on the right side, but still have room to direct the speaker to my viewing position. The doctor may have to make a house call to clearly understand your symptoms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted May 9, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 9, 2014 (edited) Ah my screen is 8' wide now so it wouldn't be an uprade for me. Edited May 9, 2014 by Youthman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted May 9, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 9, 2014 I do want to move to an AT screen so I can get the largest screen. Y E S Do it just how you want, I never understood why people redo everything just for small changes then do it again months later. In 6 months your going to wish you went big, do it how you want the first time and remove the "I wish I would have". Even if it takes a little longer it's worth it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 What are you looking for input on? Am I crazy for even considering upgrading? I know you can always upgrade but I guess I struggle with at what point do I become content with what I have. I'm not dissatisfied with any of the HT. I just realize it can be better and I probably will have very little if any cost in it after I sell my RF-83, RC-64 and my 103" screen. Guess I'm just looking for reasons why I should upgrade (probably have no problem getting help here). But I also need help with things like screen size, will my current projector be bright enough for a 130" screen? Then there is design. Awhile back, when I was considering upgrading my screen, wakejunkie drew up some concepts in Google Sketchup. I'm thinking this design would work well, reduce the screen 130" and bring the screen out to accomodate the 3 LaScalas. I would go with a 150" AT screen and then see how big you like the image, and mask with black AT material to the desired screen size. The reason is by going with the biggest size possible you will never regret not going big enough, and you can always make new masking panels for a larger screen. If you go 130" now and a year from now you want to go larger due to brighter projectors or any other reason, you would have to rip down the old screen and start over... In my opinion it is more cost effective to just go big first (we are going 14' wide on our screen and masking down to whatever our BenQ W1070 can handle until a brighter projector is available with 2.40 aspect capability). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 His screen is 1.78 and youth has the 2.35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NBPK402 Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I know nothing about screens and projectors, so I have a couple of newbie questions. If you upgrade the size of your screen, do you also need to upgrade your projector? I would think "yes." And two, are projectors/screens good for general TV watching? I would guess "no" for this one. I would think a good upgrade would be to 4K when prices drop and 4K content becomes available, and I would think that upgrading the screen to accommodate bigger/better/more speakers would also be a good reason to upgrade. The projector he has might not need to be upgraded. Projectors are good for everyday TV use also... I use ours for internet, tv, and movies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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