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Considering Upgrading from 103" to DIY 130" AT Screen


Youthman

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I do like the "Go big or go home" mentality but if I made the screen the max width I have at 13' wide that would be 156" wide minus masking would make it around 150" wide. That would be a 163" Screen! I would have to have a throw distance of almost 17' (my room is 19') and I would need to bump up my the screen gain to a 1.4 (don't think the Seymour AT is that high).

If I went with a 150" diagonal, that would be 138" wide which would leave me 9" on each side of the screen for masking. I would need a 1.2 gain screen (which is what the Seymour is) and would need to move my projector back from 12' to 15'7".

Honestly, I can't imagine going from a 103" to a 150" diagonal in 2.35:1! Now that's a screen. :D

Sounds like 150" would be a perfect size, you don't want wall to wall screen, I think 9 inches extra per side would work very well in your room.

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I do like the "Go big or go home" mentality but if I made the screen the max width I have at 13' wide that would be 156" wide minus masking would make it around 150" wide. That would be a 163" Screen! I would have to have a throw distance of almost 17' (my room is 19') and I would need to bump up my the screen gain to a 1.4 (don't think the Seymour AT is that high).

If I went with a 150" diagonal, that would be 138" wide which would leave me 9" on each side of the screen for masking. I would need a 1.2 gain screen (which is what the Seymour is) and would need to move my projector back from 12' to 15'7".

Honestly, I can't imagine going from a 103" to a 150" diagonal in 2.35:1! Now that's a screen. :D

I would still go max screen size and do the wall... You never know when a projector will come up in the future that will fit just right in your plans and be able to use the max your screen is capable of. I am at 134" now 16x9, my previous screen was 106" 16x9, and before that 120" 4x3. My next one will be 14' -18' wide by 7-8' tall and we will mask it down from there... I am still debating about going the 18' but the wall support beams are at the 14' mark and we would have to make new support beams and attach them to the side walls and ceiling. If I can make it work I will go all the way. The other issue is my equipment rack will be in the left hand corner in front of the screen about 3' off of the floor, so it will be difficult to get at the wires with a screen right behind it. I do not want to have to look for another screen down the road, so this is the final screen. :)

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It's rewarding to see that some of my contributions are helpful! I haven't been on the forum in 2-3 years. Not for lack of interest, just lack of time. Willy, I appreciate the kind words. That was a fun day. I think you made a wise choice in not going with the Danleys for your apartment setting.

I'm glad you're giving LaScalas a shot, and am real curious to hear your observations. I had come from the THX Ultra2's when I went to LaScalas. I felt like the U2's had a more refined, smooth quality. However, my room is really large, and the LaScalas have far more output. They also seem to "grab" the room. For movies, they have startling dynamics that weren't matched by the U2's.

I wonder with your smaller room if you'll appreciate these differences?

I believe that even though the RC64 is well respected, center channel will be the largest difference you'll notice. The LaScala as a center channel is awesome!

Subs: You and I discussed this in PM for a bit. I was super excited and in awe of the system for a few years. However, I think my tastes are changing. For those first few years, I was in the room daily, and you tend to become acclimated to your system. You know, a fast car stops feeling fast, etc. Over the last few years, I've been back to college, new career, etc. I only get in the room once a month. When I do get that chance, I have to admit that the subs make me giggle over the absurd, crazy, output. Maybe it's because it's "new" every time, but it's just so much that it doesn't seem necessary any more. In the last 6 months, I've even changed the EQ to remove about 6db in the 20hz area, and taken the entire sub level down by 3db below my mains. The sheetrock, furniture, light fixtures, seem to appreciate it. ;)

Screen size: It doesn't sound like you need any convincing! I agree with most every comment you've received. Go AT, go as large as you can fit in the room. If you find you want to mask it down, that is easier and cheaper than rebuilding the screen. My screen is larger and has closer seating distances than anyone was recommending 5 years ago when I built it. I have not regretted the decision ever. I use a Panny 4000. It does a beautiful job with the size, in a completely light controlled room.

I think the addition of LaScalas will be a marginal difference for you. If you go with the Danley sub (s) it will be a large change. The one change you will appreciate the most, in the long run, is screen size.

Edited by tragusa3
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Hey Tony, I really appreciate you taking the time to post in my thread.

I believe that even though the RC64 is well respected, center channel will be the largest difference you'll notice. The LaScala as a center channel is awesome!

I had posted some of my thoughts between the RF-83 & LaScalas in the Youthman's First Heritage Speakers...the LaScalas thread.

Over the last few years, I've been back to college, new career, etc.

Congrats.....glad to hear that.

Screen size: It doesn't sound like you need any convincing!

No, I didn't need convincing....I needed people to help me justify why I should do it. :lol:

Go AT, go as large as you can fit in the room. If you find you want to mask it down, that is easier and cheaper than rebuilding the screen.

Yes, that's what I have decided to do.

My screen is larger and has closer seating distances than anyone was recommending 5 years ago when I built it. I have not regretted the decision ever. I use a Panny 4000. It does a beautiful job with the size, in a completely light controlled room.

I have the Panny AE3000u. The 3000u and 4000u are both 1600 lumens so that's good to know your are very satisfied with your image quality. What size image are you displaying, what is your throw distance and what screen did you end up going with?

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I think the addition of LaScalas will be a marginal difference for you.

One thing I have noticed already is there is more clarity and detail in the LaScalas than in the RF-83's. I'm assuming this has much to do with the huge midrange horn. So far, I'm not too impressed with the bass response of the LaScalas and if I raise them off the floor just a tad, it will be even less. I like what I'm reading about the Danley's but I'm thinking it will be well above what I want to spend for a sub. I'll likely have to design and build my own horn loaded sub to save some cash.

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I think the addition of LaScalas will be a marginal difference for you.

One thing I have noticed already is there is more clarity and detail in the LaScalas than in the RF-83's. I'm assuming this has much to do with the huge midrange horn. So far, I'm not too impressed with the bass response of the LaScalas and if I raise them off the floor just a tad, it will be even less. I like what I'm reading about the Danley's but I'm thinking it will be well above what I want to spend for a sub. I'll likely have to design and build my own horn loaded sub to save some cash.

I picked up 2 Danley DTS 10s shipped to me for $1700... Not too bad of a price IMO. :).

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You should be able to find a used DTS10 for about $1k. In my opinion, you would be hard pressed to find a better value in base (short of building your own).

I always warn folks, the DTS10 is a raw sub with no internal EQ. I was not pleased with mine for the entire first year I owned it. It took me that long to work out the learning curve on placement and outboard EQ. You have to be willing to work this sub into your room through measurements and trial and error. This is true of all subs, but particularly necessary with this sub. I could help shorten your learning curve if you were to get one.

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You should be able to find a used DTS10 for about $1k. In my opinion, you would be hard pressed to find a better value in base (short of building your own).

I always warn folks, the DTS10 is a raw sub with no internal EQ. I was not pleased with mine for the entire first year I owned it. It took me that long to work out the learning curve on placement and outboard EQ. You have to be willing to work this sub into your room through measurements and trial and error. This is true of all subs, but particularly necessary with this sub. I could help shorten your learning curve if you were to get one.

Mine are pretty flat in my room without any EQ. I cross them over at 40 though. I have measured and EQd them but the difference from direct is minimal. I really like the subs. They were an incredible bargain.

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Michael I just sent pics of the LaScala to you via email. Let me know if you didn't get them....or if you did. I snapped many different angles to show you whatever nicks were in the finish. All in all you will see that it's in pretty decent cosmetic condition and it's absolutely structurally and mechanically/sonically excellent. Post them up on this thread even though the pics are appalling compared to your work....

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We can do better than that. ;-)

I won't complain if we do.

This guy used a 12v Windshield Wiper Motor

Strange that he can make an automized masking system but he has to get up and walk to the light switch and turn the lights off... I would have made the lights automatic first. :)

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Strange that he can make an automized masking system but he has to get up and walk to the light switch and turn the lights off... I would have made the lights automatic first.

You have a point. :D

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