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Finally....My Stonehenge Build Thread!


dewthedru

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First, thanks for all the help so far.  

 

I wanted to go through my parts list first before the flat packs arrive to make sure everything is correct.  I've ordered the following:

 

2 Stonehenge flat pack from DIYSoundgroup

 

2 Dual 4 ohm HT18 18" Drivers from Stereo Integrity

 

Behringer iNuke NU3000DSP amp

 

50ft 12AWG CL2 speaker wire from Monoprice

 

2 XLR Female to RCA Female Adapter (I have extra Monster RCA cables at home I can use)

 

2 Parts Express Gold Recessed 5-Way Banana Speaker Terminal Cup Rectangle

 

Neutrik NL4FC Speakon Connector 4 Pole Cable Mount  (Crap!  Forgot to include these in my PE order!)

 

 

And yes, I really am a nOOb...

 

Variable Wattage Soldering Iron

 

Kester Kwik-Draw Solder

 

 

 

 

Am I missing anything?  The drivers get here tomorrow per the tracking info.  I haven't seen any movement on the flat packs.  Will send Erich a note if they haven't shipped by this weekend.  

 

I gotta go grab clamps and glue this weekend.  Not sure if I'll Duratex the units or try to do something else.  Suggestions?

I'm not sure if this is what it is, but I ran the T/S specs on that HT18 driver in a 5.4 cf enclosure tuned to 19 Hz, and this is the result. 89db efficiency and 25.37Hz -3db. With that amp in 2 ohm per driver mode (1500 watts each), you should be able to get 121db before corner loading. If you have it wired in 8 ohm mode (450 watts each), you will get about 116 db before corner loading.

 

In my opinion, you do not need any high pass filter on this sub. If you do use one, make it 15 Hz. Low pass could be around 120Hz depending on the mains.

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Edited by mustang guy
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Ok guys. I finished them off. I put them in the place I think I'm going to keep them but I need to run some sound checks obviously. They sound decent, but I don't think anything changed with the new amp. I'm still not overwhelmed at all and that is pretty disappointing, but they certainly have volume now that I ran the Audyssey setup. I would like to get a voltage meter to double check the power going to them because I still don't think they're putting out everything they should be. Any suggestions as to where or which one to get?

I guess my biggest issue is that they're not punchy at all. They can get loud, but I'm not feeling pounding in my chest or anything during heavy scenes. I have the low pass filter set at 20 Hz and didn't do anything with the high pass filter. Or maybe I have those backwards.

Here's a couple pictures of the finished product.

 

Nice Subs! They look really good. Do you have the low pass or high pass set to 20hz? If its low pass then only content below 20hz are going to the subs which might be the issue. A 20hz high pass will allow everything above 20hz to come to the sub and will protect it from going lower than the driver can handle. From watching an episode of Home Theater Geeks they suggest moving the subs 25% from the front wall and have seating position 20% from the back wall for a good staring point on freq response. Maybe you are in a null at your current location? 

 

Did you see what twk wrote here?

Edited by mustang guy
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Ok guys. I finished them off. I put them in the place I think I'm going to keep them but I need to run some sound checks obviously. They sound decent, but I don't think anything changed with the new amp. I'm still not overwhelmed at all and that is pretty disappointing, but they certainly have volume now that I ran the Audyssey setup. I would like to get a voltage meter to double check the power going to them because I still don't think they're putting out everything they should be. Any suggestions as to where or which one to get?

I guess my biggest issue is that they're not punchy at all. They can get loud, but I'm not feeling pounding in my chest or anything during heavy scenes. I have the low pass filter set at 20 Hz and didn't do anything with the high pass filter. Or maybe I have those backwards.

Here's a couple pictures of the finished product.

 

Nice Subs! They look really good. Do you have the low pass or high pass set to 20hz? If its low pass then only content below 20hz are going to the subs which might be the issue. A 20hz high pass will allow everything above 20hz to come to the sub and will protect it from going lower than the driver can handle. From watching an episode of Home Theater Geeks they suggest moving the subs 25% from the front wall and have seating position 20% from the back wall for a good staring point on freq response. Maybe you are in a null at your current location? 

 

Did you see what twk wrote here?

 

 

Yep.  I had the correct one set.  I just couldn't remember which it was since I wasn't home at the time.

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I feel like a phone call to ONE of us could have this solved in a couple hours. Getting so many suggestions from all

Of us must be about overwhelming.

 

kind of.  there are a lot of suggestions but they basically boil down to clean up the power going to the amp or explore the polarity issue at the driver.  the other stuff is fine tuning which i'll get to eventually.  

 

i had to fly to DC yesterday morning.  i'm flying back home now and i'll have this weekend to mess with it.  i first plan to hook up the cleanbox and see if that makes a difference.  i'll then try reversing the wires on the drivers and see if some different combination will make a difference.  

 

failing that....i'll build a huge bonfire and throw them in it.  kidding.  i'll pick up a volt meter to see what juice i'm getting at the boxes to eliminate the amp, i'll use something to measure the db levels so i can more accurately share what's going on with you guys.  

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SUCCESS!!!!!

Cleanbox really helped. The whole house was shaking and I got the "I don't know why you like this...everything in the house is buzzing" from my wife. And the dog ran all the way upstairs and wouldn't come down until I assured her I was all done.

I could only get the sub really going if the overall AVR volume was super high. Now I can easily get the bass pumping without much effort. I'm kind of surprised how easily it goes into the red line though. I'll have to be careful not to blow the amp or speakers. I'll

Mess with the settings this week to make sure the limiters are where I want them.

Edited by dewthedru
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I feel like a phone call to ONE of us could have this solved in a couple hours. Getting so many suggestions from all

Of us must be about overwhelming.

 

When I had a computer business, for support I told my customers to use the "ten minute rule."

 

You should try to figure things out on your own first, and you can figure out 90% of your problems in 10 minutes.  If it takes longer than 10 minutes and you can't figure it out, call me.  Because after that, it will take you 4 hours, and I may be able to provide a term or some experience which may help without all that frustration.

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SUCCESS!!!!!

Cleanbox really helped. The whole house was shaking and I got the "I don't know why you like this...everything in the house is buzzing" from my wife. And the dog ran all the way upstairs and wouldn't come down until I assured her I was all done.

I could only get the sub really going if the overall AVR volume was super high. Now I can easily get the bass pumping without much effort. I'm kind of surprised how easily it goes into the red line though. I'll have to be careful not to blow the amp or speakers. I'll

Mess with the settings this week to make sure the limiters are where I want them.

Awesome. Carl was right as usual. 

 

Just the terminals on the outside of the enclosure. What would be the difference?

To answer the question, swapping the terminals on the amp or enclosure outside reverses polarity. Swapping them on the driver changes from serial to parallel and thereby changes the impedence from 8ohms to 2 ohms.

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quote name='dewthedru' timestamp='1429468023' post='1869279'] SUCCESS!!!!!

 

Cleanbox really helped.

I don't know anything about Cleanbox, execpt a lot of people like them.  If it truly cleaned up the problem, I wonder what specifically, it did?

 

The whole house was shaking and I got the "I don't know why you like this...everything in the house is buzzing" from my wife. [/quote


200_s.gif

 

Dru, your Mancard has been renewed for another year. 

Edited by wvu80
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SUCCESS!!!!!

 

Cleanbox really helped.

I don't know anything about Cleanbox, execpt a lot of people like them.  If it truly cleaned up the problem, I wonder what specifically, it did?

 

The whole house was shaking and I got the "I don't know why you like this...everything in the house is buzzing" from my wife. [/quote

200_s.gif

 

Dru, your Mancard has been renewed for another year.     B) 

Cleanbox boosts the gain between devices. It's sorta like a phono preamp.

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