BobK Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 I just picked up a pair of OAK Chorus 1s for 550.00 not sure if that was a deal or not. They are in pretty good shape but do have some of the veneer chipped off at the base and a big water stain on the top of one. Its like a ring that caused the veneer to get lumpy on the top. Anyone ever repair something like this? Its just cosmetic but wondering if its a difficult fix or would be best left up to a furniture repair person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 $550 is not too bad if all the drivers are working, woofers are in good shape, etc. If the veneer is lumpy on top, then I would say it's best to leave it to an experienced person....if it was just a moisture ring, that's not overly difficult. You can remove the risers on the bottom is the damage is unsightly, won't make a huge difference in the performance. Would recommend replacing the crossover capacitors, or entirely new crossovers, just depends on your budget. Have fun with your new toys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobK Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 $550 is not too bad if all the drivers are working, woofers are in good shape, etc. If the veneer is lumpy on top, then I would say it's best to leave it to an experienced person....if it was just a moisture ring, that's not overly difficult. You can remove the risers on the bottom is the damage is unsightly, won't make a huge difference in the performance. Would recommend replacing the crossover capacitors, or entirely new crossovers, just depends on your budget. Have fun with your new toys! I just set them up and you can't even see that stuff, they are so big. The woofers look perfect, ie - no punch holes etc. Don't know if they are working like new. They sound good maybe not as much punch on the bass as I expected from a 15" woofer. I have not A/B them but they don't Blow away my smaller KG4s. But the KGs have the crites tweeter update. I would say that passive on the KG4s has a little more punch. They might sound a little more enveloping or a bigger sound. I was expecting them to BLOW away the KG4s but to me and my son they did not. But will have to get some wires to do a proper A/B and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjptkd Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 What are you driving them with? The Chorus uses a commercial grade 15" woofer and they can take a lot of power. Positioning also plays a big part, closer to an inside corner will give you more bass. Don't be afraid to turn your bass knob on your Receiver or Processor or whatever you're using a few clicks up either, especially at lower volumes. Congrats on the new Chorus 1's, once you get them set up right I'm sure you'll be very impressed with them! Jesse 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 I think the damage to the wood is going to be more expensive to repair that it is worth. WMcD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Chorus I's are not going to blow away KG4's, especially at lower to mid volumes. As has been said, crank them up a bit and see what you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 I think the damage to the wood is going to be more expensive to repair that it is worth. WMcD Put a plant up there, and you'll never know the difference....., sorry, couldn't resist.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 (edited) the rear baffle of the Chorus and the Chorus ll is in desperate need of brace work as it has none. You can wedge some compressible rubber between the back pole plate of the mid compression driver and the baffle just enough so the comp driver will press firmly against the baffle but compressible enough so you can still screw the mid horn snugly into the baffle.This will turn the mid horn into a brace for the rear baffle motion especially under heavy play levels. This will give you a good idea why the cabinet needs brace work.There is a lot of mod work that can be done to your Chorus. First rotate the woofers 180 degrees make sure all mounting screws are all very tight and that all gaskets are fresh. Ti tweeter and mid diaphragms are a big step up also and fresh capacitors are a very good idea as are fresh spade connectors crimp and solder them onto the lead wires for best results and best sound. Lots of other things you can do but get the basic necessary stuff done first. Best regards moray james. Edited January 9, 2016 by moray james Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odd ogg Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 (edited) Good price IMHO.I had the same deal last summer. Paid $600 on a pair of Chorus I's and $100 for a pair of Hersey II's black lacq, The C's have a couple of small chips on the bases and very small blems on top. No rings. Love the Chorus-will be updating with Crites. Edited January 10, 2016 by odd ogg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobK Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 the rear baffle of the Chorus and the Chorus ll is in desperate need of brace work as it has none. . Best regards moray james. The Chorus I does not have a rear driver or port. It has two round holes/ports on the front below the woofer. They do not have tubes or any sound dampening material on the inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 the rear baffle of the Chorus and the Chorus ll is in desperate need of brace work as it has none. . Best regards moray james. The Chorus I does not have a rear driver or port. It has two round holes/ports on the front below the woofer. They do not have tubes or any sound dampening material on the inside. why do you think that I ever said that the Chorus has a anything on the rear baffle other than the terminal cup? The Chorus ll has a fifteen inch passive radiator on the rear baffle, that aside it still badly needs brace work so does the Chorus. Best regards Moray James... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 Should take a look at MATHEWS post titled Chorus fabs A lot of good pics there. You can re-veneer depends on what you want to spend or end up with. You could try using an iron on the bubbled up veneer but if the wood under it got wet probably wont work but worth a try. Its possible to cut out the bad section and replace with veneer or just do that whole side. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobK Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 I think the damage to the wood is going to be more expensive to repair that it is worth. WMcD I added 7" paper ports, moved them a little closer together and did crank them. They sounded much better, very enveloping and loud. I have crites titanium tweets and mid-range on the way. I'll report back when I get them installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthews Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 (edited) I added 7" paper portsPVC tube flares molded with a heat gun and kitchen bowl. 4" adaptors and dampening foam from parts express... Matt ♪ ♫ ♪ http://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-1-acoustic-sound-damping-foam-with-psa-18-x-24--260-525 http://www.parts-express.com/speaker-cabinet-port-tube-4-id-x-4-3-8-l--260-411 Edited January 13, 2016 by Matthews 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MORE KLIPSCH PLEASE Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Hey BobK welcome to the forum... Been keeping an eye on your threads about the Chorus you got.... 1st time I've had a chance to throw my 2 cents in... Soooooo IMHO.... the Klipsch Chorus line on speaker is one of "the" best for it's size... These speakers Rock.... they should with-out question blow your KG's away.... Yes we know they are rated @ 101 db's with 1 watt... and they will sound great with a few watts at em.. but my man I will tell ya don't be shy with the power to em.... those things are rated at 1000 watts peak... Now i'm not saying throw a 1000 watts at em... but when I want to "pump" out the jams at my house I will put well over 380 watts at em with one of my Carver amps.. When you start pushing them over that 300 watt mark... those speaker are like a wall of sound hittin ya... You feel those speakers in your chest.... As one of our forum member's have put it (colterphoto1)... those Chorus are like a wolf in sheep's clothing...... and I agree with him... My amp of choice to drive my Chorus line of speaker is the Carver amps... The bigger Carver's like the TFM-55, 45's and 42's.. They seem to really bring out that low-end thump to em..... they get that 15" woofer woofing I've had two Adcoms 555 II's bridged and the one Carver TFM-55 made em hit harder... Yea I like my Carver's.... The guys over the Carver site always say " there's watts and then there's Bob Carver watts" lol lol..... I don't know... But know what I like when I hear and Feel it... Good luck with your speaker's...... MKP :-) 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Agree with MKP about the Carver amps.Chorus in any case really like the watts. Enjoy! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 (edited) I think the damage to the wood is going to be more expensive to repair that it is worth. WMcD I added 7" paper ports, moved them a little closer together and did crank them. They sounded much better, very enveloping and loud. I have crites titanium tweets and mid-range on the way. I'll report back when I get them installed. When reflex vents start to get long relative to the cabinet dimensions the best place to locate them is on the top of the cabinet so the air in the vents has no obstructions in its path. This is obviously an unpopular location for obvious reasons of things being dropped into the cabinet but it is the best possible location from a functional point of view. Remember that the air mass within a reflex vent will travel up to 1.5 time the vent length both in and out of the vent during heavy drive at vents tuned frequency. That would mean that for a 6 inch long vent you would ideally want 9 inches of unobstructed space on either side of the vent. This does not mean that a vent won't work if you placed it say 3 inches of a rear baffle it will work but it will not function at 100% of its capability. Most owners of reflex vented loudspeaker which have the vents mounted on the back side of the cabinet are well aware of this issue and know vents need room to breath, it is mostly an inconvenient truth, they just stop thinking when it come to the inside of the cabinet. Edited January 13, 2016 by moray james Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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